lmdew

I drop the sway bar link and then with the ball joint nut on the bottom lose but still on beat the lower arm down. It will pull the joint out.

In my Humble Opinion IMHO. Yes the engine will bolt right up, but the trans and drive line is not built for the increased torque. To change the harness you need to pull the complete dash out, and then the STI harness will not plug into the dash connectors so you have to wire each circuit individually. If you want an STI, save your money and buy one. It can be done but the costs is high! Go over to www.nasioc.com and search there.

Life will be determined by how it was maintained. Over 300K is often obtained. It would be a lot of work and Money to try to drop in a Turbo motor. It can be done but the price would far out way the benefits, IMHO.

For the O2 sensor the code will tell you front or rear. If you have not changed the Front O2 sensor, take a look at the connector behind the air box on the passenger side and see which connector you have. You should also be able to plug your VIN in a Subaru website and it should give you the correct sensor. Same for the Ball Joint. Get some PB Blaster on the ball joint and O2 sensor a week or 2 ahead of time to make it an easier job.

Yes, Stay with the Forester! Just look in the engine compartment, the NA are much easier to work on and a lot less heat under the hood to cook all of the hoses and other things. The reliability of the Forester is much better than the WRX!

Flashing 16 times after you start tells you there is a fault in the trans and the TCU has it in the memory.

Forester Struts assy, you may have to change the top mount over on the back struts so the studs are the same as your car. Front's bolt right in, set the camber all the way in. It's usually pretty close. Rear's you need the trailing arm mount plate from the forester (it's about a 1/2" longer) and I usually use a trailing arm to knuckle bolt (smaller dia) for the top strut mount bolt. You can use the Forester Springs as well. About 2" of bolt on lift.

From Above: drain and fill the trans and then start the car. The trans will pump out about 3/4 of a gallon, shut off the car and fill the trans again. drain and fill the trans and then start the car. The trans will pump out about 3/4 of a gallon, shut off the car and fill the trans again.

Yes, Put on a door and live with the rest. Pocket the money for your next Subaru when you need one.

Make sure you are clear of the Frame with the engine mount. The alignment pins can be rusted in. You can try driving them forward or put a large screwdriver between the engine and trans and then move the passenger side back towards the trans. Keep the space between the engine and trans as close to the same as you can side to side.

Lots of the auto transmission cars do this. Can be the half shafts as noted above. The Subaru just wants to go!

The engine does not weigh that much. You could build a simple A frame out of 2x4 with a 2.x6 cross beam. That ill hold the engine and give you plenty of reach to lift it clear of the engine bay. Read up on the rear breather plate and leave the rear seal alone unless you know for sure it's leaking. 99.9% of the time it's the breather plate leaking. Larry

Should be a bolt in. The difference can be taken care of by swapping the intakes over and the timing gears. But I doubt you will have to do that,

When you put the FWD fuse in did you get the FWD light on the Dash? You said the binding went away so you should have had the light. I'd do the trans flush, I've had good luck pulling the trans cooler hose and running the engine and letting 3/4 gallon of old fluid pump out at a time. Turn off the engine refill and repeat until the fluid runs clean. Suspect you may have a bad clutch pack, but if you have the FWD light the C Duty should be good. Larry

Fan is up under the glove box on the passenger side. There is also a resistor pack in the ducting that controls the speed. If you can check voltage under load at the fan that will tell you the most. You could also try bypassing the resistor pack just putting the wires together, the fan will run at full speed. The fan is easy to drop out and I have a few if you need one.

What were the responses to your Other Posts? Does the noise change as you go around corners? When you load the wheel bearings Did you drain the Trans and check the gear lube for metal? Does it do it all the time or is it intermittent?

Sell your car and buy one with the performance you want. The Swap will cost you more and you will have a car that's special to you but you will have a hard time selling it in the modified condition.

It takes about 2 gallons, a little less, Take a gallon of A/F and slowly fill the engine using the upper radiator hose and then put the hose on Fill the over flow tank Put the heater on high Start the engine and slowly fill the radiator When you think it's full, place your hand over the filler neck and burp the system. Squeeze the top hose until bubbles stop coming out Fill the system. Put the cap on and let it come up to temp and then cool. I will suck some coolant back in. Keep an eye on the tank until it stops going down.

Yes, through the dip stick hole

Well if it was summer or you got it to Colorado Springs, I'd do it for you. Don't know if you can wait that long. If you can swing a wrench we could walk you through the process. It's not that hard. Larry

The VSS1 is pretty easy to pull, the wrench has to be thin enough to go on. Limited rotation but it's not in there too tight. I've never had to change VSS2. Larry

Just did to ball joints on a 97 Legacy last week, bolts and ball joints came right out, I love Colorado Cars!

Most likely the Starter. Are the headlights bright? The Starter contacts get pitted and you don't have the voltage going through them. You can search the USMB, Starter Contacts. Larry

Good rust free fill tubes from Colorado available. $40 + shipping. Larry

Nothing to solve the problem other than change it. Do the TBelt early, better than loosing the belt due to a frozen pump.