lmdew
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Everything posted by lmdew
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I helped a fellow get his reseated the other day. The collar inside the TC was not centered so the TC was almost 3/8" out. We used a extension and a wood block to lever it back to close to center and then it went in. -
The sun roof works but the shade is off the tracks. Can I get it back on without dropping the headliner? Thanks, Larry
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How do you get the rear sun roof shade back on the tracks?
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Picked up some GT wheels and tires from a fellow today, he had only pulled 3 of the 4 bolts off the flex plate so the TC came out with the engine. He got them apart and then tried to reseat the TC. It was still out when I saw it and I offered to help him seat it. The normal method did not work only 2 clicks so I pulled it out and the center shaft came along with the TC and outer tube. I've never seen that before and could not get it all the way back in. I think the thrust washers on the rear end of the trans may have dropped preventing the shaft from going all the way in. That's not so good.
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The small wire on the Starter is from the ignition switch. Yes a 3/8 lug will fit the starter.
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Yes, no problems, just rotate the cam back where it needs to be and install the belt.
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Vacuum line comes off the intake manifold and goes to the top of the servo. two minute fix. I've fixed more than one of these by just putting the vac line on when the owner had not had cruise for months.
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That's pretty extreme, but you need to find the source of the leak, could be the HG or could be a $5 hose. Do you have the Subaru Coolant Conditioner in? Doubt if it will help with a gallon a week leak but for $3 it's worth putting in.
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Do you have a volt meter? Some one my have put an inline fuse in if it was not a stock radio.
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2 for replacing the front seal, you may have damaged it when you pull thing apart with lots of stress on the TC You also need to fix the dent in the pan if it's more than 1/8" in. There is very little clearance between the pan and valve body and fluid inlet port. I'd also take a close look at the aft trans mount. if you put the starter in the hole and push the TC aft and rotate it the gears will just touch when you rotate the TC. When the engine and trans are together and you put the TC to flex plate bolts in you pull the TC forward about an 1/8.
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Easy, fix it and keep it on the road. What are you going to do if you scrap it, have $300 a month payments on a new car or a used car that you have limited idea of the history on. Or sell it to me for $500 and I'll fix it
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When it happens try shifting to neutral and see if it works. The Park position is then faulty.
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Have stock 6 disk and Subaru Amp for sale. Larry
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Just plastic trim for the seat. Subaru Only I would think. Pull one out of the yard.
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Yes, should bolt up just fine,but the molding lines are a little different.
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When is the last time the transmission fluid was changed? Did you flush the trans? This sounds like the clutch pack is hanging up, not the C-duty electrical failure. Start with new fluid!
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Hit any yard there should be several. www.car-part.com will have it
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Need to check voltage under load at the pump. The pumps can be intermittent. Check out: www.brighterideas.com or search LoadPro on utube.
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Some of these rings are inside the diff and do not come out. He may want to check that. If the old one had on on the end of the shaft that that's not the case but he could swap it from the old axle to the new one. If all else fails, head down to the local bearing shop with the axle, they can find one that would work.
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NO SPARK
lmdew replied to GAS's topic in 1990 to Present Legacy, Impreza, Outback, Forester, Baja, WRX&WrxSTI, SVX
Did you pull the ECU connector and dry and clean it. I'd suspect the ECU is damaged if the water was up to that level. Start with the connectors and sensor connectors. -
I have this one and like it. Simple does the job and fits in the glove box. http://www.amazon.com/Autel-MaxiScan-MS300-Diagnostic-Vehicles/dp/B001LHVOVK/ref=sr_1_1?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1386504959&sr=1-1&keywords=obd+ii+scanner
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I got mine from this company: KOspeed: http://www.ebay.com/itm/02-07-SUBARU-IMPREZA-WRX-STI-MANUAL-MT-DUAL-CORE-2-ROW-ALUMINUM-RACING-RADIATOR-/171190336532?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item27dbbd3c14&vxp=mtr
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I got a full aluminum one, about 135. I did post it here a couple of years ago. I forget the brand right now but it was reasonable and great quality.
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Yes most likely the valves are bent, but you might have gotten lucky. It does not cost much to put a belt on and see what extend the damage is. Turn it over by hand first and then see how it runs. A good used motor is a good option and not very hard to install. About $400 in parts to repair the old one, valves, HG, TBelt seals...
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Check out www.brighterideas.com Larry
