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lmdew

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Everything posted by lmdew

  1. Here you go: http://fortcollins.craigslist.org/cto/4226503753.html
  2. Get a nice rust free one out of the rust belt. Yes it won't stay that way but at least it's a good starting point.
  3. Check all of the connections and grounds are clean and tight. Check the alt output Check the headlight connectors and well as the tail light. Rule out the simple stuff first.
  4. My son is in Fort Collins and has been well trained in Subaru's. He's busy with work and college but I'm sure he'd take a look if it's not urgent. Oil leaks are pretty easy on the 95 2.2 Rear of the engine - Breather plate or Cam cover Side of the Engine - Valve Cover Gaskets Front of the Engine - Make sure it's not the power steering pump or oil pressure switch. If those are clean and it's coming out of the timing cover, cam or crank seals or the Oil Pump needs to be resealed.
  5. Did a 97 Impreza OBS to forester Strut change today. The rear link mounts broke 4 of the 6 nuts loose inside the frame. I had one bolt on each side out and the other 4 loose. Removed the rear seat bottom and plastic door sill plates. Drilled up from the bottom in the good hole and then used a cardboard template to locate were to drill the 1 1/2" hole down from the top to access the other nuts. Worked well. The bolts were corroded above the nut, the nut and bolt part that was inside the nut was pretty good. A few breaker bars and some work allowed us to remove all six bolts and reuse them as we installed the new trailing arms. All of the holes were under the rear seat, so we just left them.
  6. Take one to Ace Hardware you should be able to match the thread pitch. Or Hit your local yard. Easy to pull a few.
  7. Year, which arm and which bolt. I might be able to check it out for you. There are a couple of 2000 and 1 2002 in the yard by me.
  8. Put a dollar bill right up against the tail pipe, if it gets sucked into the exhaust you have a bent or suck valve. You could also check your intake for leaks, get some stating fluid and spray around the intake and hoses. If the RPM goes up, you've found your leak.
  9. I'd hit the junk yard with a drill and pull the bolt that is stripped and then drill up from the bottom and see where it comes out. At least you could experiment on a yard car.
  10. No Torch, the layers of metal will go crazy. By they way you will have the same problem when you try to patch it.
  11. Yes, leave them unless they are leaking. Also do the oil pump screws and cam and crank seals.
  12. Just sold an 07 2.5 with VVT with 52K miles on it for $1700. What caused the rod to go? Low Oil I'd suspect. Larry
  13. Get the #'s off the two transmissions and look up the gear ratios. There is a 2 letter code on top of the rear diff that provides the gear ratio but you have to pull the diff to see it. Larry
  14. I'd go back to Stock and see what happens. Aftermarket stuff can cause strange problems.
  15. If the fluids have mixed and they have been driving it that way you may have bottom end damage to the bearings without proper lubrication. If you put the money in to the HG and then a rod bearing goes you will not be happy. If they want to keep the car you might think of a total rebuild or used motor.
  16. Could be high resistance in the relay contacts. Again checking the voltage under load at the headlight is the best way to figure out what's going on.
  17. It took me about 2 hours to do everything. The Machine shop was going to charge $60, so pretty much a wash at that point. The actual surfacing only took about 20 minutes per head going slow and checking progress often.
  18. Check the connector on the lamp itself. Lot's of times the connectors are loose and there is high resistance. I've seen lots of them melted. Check out, www.brighterideas.com I bet you have a voltage drop in the system. LoadPro will find the fault.
  19. The Gas Fill pipe has most likely rusted through. If you need a good rust free CO one let me know. Pull the plastic cover off and inspect it all the way up. Passenger rear wheel well. Larry
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