ericem

So replaced the crossmember control arm and everything lined up but it appears the knuckle is warped. I am wondering can I use a hub from a pre 99 which has the abs tone ring on the hub instead of the axle? Will they read the same voltage?

After I rtv the pan I only tighten the bolts by holding a short extension in my hand I don't even use a wrench. Even if you took off the bolts that rtv holds on pretty tight.

Hmm I would blame the thermostat now maybe because the aftermarket ones are much shorter and don't flow as well. Might as well get a new rad there only usually $100 or so around here new idk if they are reman or w/e but they have lifetime warranty most.

I dont recall if you answered the question when I asked you but did you use a oem thermostat? Also when you flushed the heatercore if alot of crap came out I would asssume the rad is probably similar.

Great to hear! It definitely cured the problem if you saw that. I always found it odd how it produced good heat even though it was clogged!

I think the curb actually hit the crossmember possibly which is why I am having this issue.

Mine was the exact same way i would idle till it warmed up and the fans would cycle start driving it bam exactly what your talking about. I was searching for months and posting sooo many threads about this problem because it would drive me crazy I replaced my rad, 3 oem thermostats, rad caps, running lines differently etc. Blowing out the stop leak crap from my heatercore fixed it. IMO I wouldn't put another dose of subaru conditioner this round.

I had this exact same issue with my old legacy I found my heatercore was clogged if you look at a coolant diagram it bypasses through the heatercore when the thermostat closes. What I did was flush the heater core back and forth with a hose, including filled it with water and again flushing both ways express with 100+psi of compressed air and I saw little pieces of stop leak that were clogging the cores. Just incase though I assume your using a new OEM thermostat. I also replaced my ecu coolant temp sensor multiple times as well as thermostat's because it drove me crazy! You can still replace the temp sensor anyway since it's not a bad idea to replace it. Another question a/c is off i assume

Just a update the rear is all straightened up replaced the bent hub and installed new strut perfect! Now back to the front. Looks like the mount on the crossmember for the control arm is off by 1/2-1" . Also keep in mind the motor is actually sitting slightly sideways. The driveside of the engine is sitting slightly closer maybe 1/2" to the rad which makes no sense IMO. I am now wondering are the bolts bent or the crossmember itself? How do I remove the bolts or studs I mean for the xmember just so I can atleast check them to see if they are straight?

ya sorry guys i guess i mean knuckle and yes the housing. I got a hub out of my old car took alot of hammering to get out the stupid abs sensor im hoping the one in his hub comes out fine.

Guess no one experiences the hub being bent? The laterals and trailing arm show no signs of damage or bent just there is alot of positive camber even with a new strut its the same. It is hard to tell but it does appear the hub is bent I just wanted to hear someone else has experienced this or else I am thinking there is something else bent severely.

so started working on it. Tried swapping the rear struts doesnt appear the strut is bent but possibly the hub. Anyone experience the hub being bent.

yay lol ok so ill try loosening up the crossmember and see if it can get it to sit in the normal position otherwise I guess hes in for a crossmember.

Hey guys just want some opinions I am going to tackle fixing my friends 2000 impreza rs he hit a curb at "unknown speeds" and right now looked like front control arm replacement possibly crossmember as well, rack, swap bar and endlink, struts all around ill be doing wheels. In the rear he hit the curb as well looked like it just needed a strut only. Now reason I am thinking he needs a new crossmember is because the motor is sitting like a 1cm sideways id say. I am either going to swap in a crossmember from a 92 legacy turbo or I am thinking possible the bushing for the crossmember have been damaged. I am curious what others have found in similar repairs. I will post some pics tomorrow.

Here you go! http://legacygt.com/forums/forumdisplay.php/fifth-generation-legacy-2010-92.html And I would imagine that is NOT normal just call up your dealer you have warranty i'm sure.

Hmm id be interested in a good inspection of the exhaust manifold for leaks too.

Do you have any exhaust leaks? Any recent work done to the car?

Yes I support the wrx 5spd atleast 03+ when they brought in the RA gear sets updated syncro's etc. My friends 04 wrx SOMEHOW even after going through 3 clutches in under 200,000km drives perfectly fine he abuses it all day long with stage 2 how quite a while and now vf39'd. One thing I did make sure though was keep the original transmission mount people believe the slack in that mount is bad I think that is a bunch of BS it needs that nice soft mount to jello up hard shifts etc...

poof!

You must have not read through the thread or atleast the post above yours ^^

Don't put that stop leak crap. Sounds like the oil pump is probably leaking that's what I found in 2 occasions I have never found cam or crank seals leaking to be honest. Even on a 90 legacy. There is one o ring on the oil pump that I found to be bad in 2 cases other cases were the rear oil seperator plate even the aluminum ones but I replaced both covers with updated steel plates with new screws. Always used just ultra grey to seal everything.

hehe np words of advice don't mess up and make sure the spark plugs are torqued properly so like put them in by hand till they go snug, than use the wrench and tighten 1/2 a turn.

Quick google search gave me. http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/spark-plug-install-instructions-12070.html

Agree sounds like dead alternator and just letting it sit let the cells in the battery even out which gave it enough to start. Another thing which my friend experienced was the ground for the engine wasn't making contact so the starter wouldn't work and would cause sensors to give messed up data so CEL etc.