docmidBratt

Back again after a few months Nothing but prime, sand ,prime, sand bog, prime sand. and finally top coat. Bonnet done front guards done boot done and now body done Just doors to do not far to go now

And more update Decided to get the brake lights sorted With the old brumby sitting in the paddock for years the bulb fittings had rusted up. So a new setup was needed. a bit of a look at what stuff i had lying around come up with this. 1 drill out old socket 2 make hole bigger 3 wire up new fittings and add plugs 4 glue in fittings And very surprised how well the Ryobi 18 volt soldering iron went. warmed up in seconds. no waiting around for the plug in iron to warm up. just need to hook earth and power to test

More stuff done rear polycarb windows done with supports inside and out. wiring done, just needs finial mounting. boost gauge, rev counter and shift light, oil pressure gauge, volt meter, temp gauge and electric water pump all set up and going. centre console started (rear done ) got the carb for free, it was off cuts a business was throwing out. score 3 plus months working as courier slowed things down ( 70 plus hours a week ) back to postie work now. so getting closer. allot of little thing to finish off. like changing nut to lock nuts and stuff like that.

Update Well progress has been slow with covid, luck i'm in NZ anyway check this out Brumby bonnet with gt legacy reversed scoop. Just had the cage done. Tim at octane automotive here in Palmerston North. A piece of art Just working on placing of fuse box, starter panel and stuff like that. Picked up some rims off a stolen wrx. judging by the flat spots and spikes in the tyres a police chase. Anyway hope you enjoy

Update throttle cable rebuilt. 4 metres long mounted the key barrel into the cover for the wiring, brake line. ( picture to come ) redid a few earth wires. The car fires up sweet from sitting in race seat. got some brake calipers coming for the back. fixed earth wires that go to dash cluster. All earth wires cut off for some reason. now the dash goes. not far away from driving

Thanks for the info guys. Great help moving forward. the placing of the start panel is only temporary until the cage is fitted and then it will be placed in a permanent reachable position. havn't driven yet. Need accelerator cable which I can't get modified until thing open. still have a few bolts to tighten, and rear brakes to fit. ( need rebuild kit ) but then still have to figure out other wiring. It very hard to find a Bg5 ecu pin out. netual switch and stuff like that. But not to far away. Just have to move the sti, the Lancaster and a vortex turbo we were just given( not running ) just changed the plugs, 12 voted the injectors to clear the spoob out and put my spear Honda fuel pump in a container of fuel up front ( vortex pump stuffed ) and boom, she fired up. Might just flip it, can't be stuffed fixing the rust much rust .

have been setting up wiring for fuel pump, starter and other stuff like that. So power board on left. starter, fuel pump on right. Wiring only setup for the cage to be put in. so long wires and temp starter board position. with this set up we still have to screwdriver turn key on, but fuel pump works off starter panel + big red starter button starts car. starts in a few seconds. Had lots of problems getting air out of coolant lines. we could get the thermostat to open but it wouldn't push air out. It would only get about 4 feet along the ally pipes under the car and the car would start to over heat. So we took the thermostat out. and checked it. all good but decided to cut the spring out to get it to flow better. plumbed lines back in an bled air out. the coolant temp stayed around 73 degrees C which isn't too bad for a standing car. single fan up front to help cool. Not to sure how this setup will work at the track? was thinking of using thermostat with a few drill holes in it. But will find out later. End

Hay all, back for an update. things are going well but slow. But have done front end by installing all radiator pipping, hoses and radiator all the way to engine. plus full with coolant. Slight problem with radiator small hose fitting not being able to screw into radiator. (far right of radiator in pic, have queried supplier but no reply) Fuel cell plus hoses and hard lines to engine all fitted. Hoses to secure at front. wiring to do. Clutch all plumbed in and working. brake lines all run front calipers fitted, back calipers not the best. will have to get some more. plus new hoses (old ones stuffed) And check out the side vent for intake filter. small scoop to come. inside, made gear leaver tower, fitted rear brake bias valve. Also not pictured, a plastic pipe with power and earth going through. Also have a power board with main power stay branching to 6 exits to fit stuff to. ( gauges etc) And not to far to get running. Had lots of holidays to take (Like a month) but when it came time to take them it ended up being 2 days before corona virus lock down. As i live in New Zealand that meant only essential workers only could work. so only doctors, super markets, couriers, posties, farmers. No supply shops so couldn't get any parts. no bottle stores, bars, malls, takeaways, mechanics, most businesses. very sad Plus we have to stay in our bubbles. ( family only, no friends) So where other countries pretty much sort of kept going, we didn't. That's why we only have 13 dead from corona. Well anyway that's enough of that stuff, everyone look out for yourself, Doc

ITS ALIVE sorry again, computer still not fixed. have been working dibble shifts over Xmas to get some coin to bust it all out. got me hands on gf8 STI running a 98 ra motor with a td05 turbo for cheap as the guy who had it couldnt get it run on all 4. had to take the engine out to check things out and found it had a broken camshaft. fixed that and up for sale shortly to get some more found to finish the brat off. been working on the wiring and have things laid out sort of how it's going to go. decided to do a boostedboys fuel pump setup and we having problems with getting power to starter? so did a jumper and turned her over. Funny noises? that right I had put tape over the intake to stop spoob from getting into the air intake. took that off and turned her over again and she fired into life. pretty quit considering the short streight pipe I'm running. But I'll do my best to get my PC up and running when I sell the STI so I can post updates and video but bloody happy with the start up. Gives me the pump to gets her finished. cheers Doc

Just got myself a cheap 1996 STI wagon with a 1999 Ra motor. i brought it because the owner couldn't fix a spark problem in one cylinder and it was cheap for a STI. plus it came with a spear freshly built fordged block. $3500 NZ dollars. easy fix, just changed a coil and it ran on all cylinders but with a small problem. with coil unplugged no click with coil plugged in a small intermittent click, light knocking sound. Bit puzzling, ( yes I'm sure the previous owner wasn't totally honest with me) Any ideas of what it could be?

Here's an update well my Alienware alpha r2 shat its self a few months back so no PC to post stuff. it had the new pics of where we are up to. But here are the things we have bone since. lightweight flywheel fuel line parts starter motor we have fully cleaned up and under sealed the under side of the cab and fully sealed under front guards, front (engine ) bay front guards 90% done. did a new exhaust setup. 2 into 1. Looks pretty good. Only had to cut twice to merge together. Lucky also added cross bar for engine support. The one that goes to firewall. we have started wiring engine up. Sorting manual auto wiring. So sorry, until I get my PC fixed no pics

o yea. The phantom system I'm running. I thought it would be easier to run this system than the 3 pump surge tank systems around.

Back again. Progress has been a little slow as its winter here and we have had a lot of rain. But I have managed to get a few thing done. Got a 19ltr fuel cell. Had the filler in the middle of it, so have changed it to fit the aeromotive phantom in tank fuel pump with buffer. cool little unit and should pump 400hp easy. More than we need to start with. Also have had some power steering lines made up to go under the car. I have a 3d printer so I'm making up 4 custom twin mounts that hold the power steer lines in place. Weathers looking better so can start fitting stuff. cheers doc

well its been some time since the last post. Weathers been a bugger. But now at last thing are moving forward, Check it out As you can see the front and rear guards are almost done. Still have the front right to do. Got new Rims & wheels, 18" 235 offset 35. Got some Advan race tyres of a friend of mine who races in the NZ v8 ute series for $50 each. He gets new tyres all the time so he has always got some in various states of life, but for mock up these are fine. Thinking of fitting running boards. Have made some cardboard one's and they don't look to bad. And yes the engine is in place. Almost room for a boxer 6. I think about 150mm to fire wall, of the top of my head. Still have to make rear gearbox mount, but have a plan in place for that. But starting to look good. enjoy

Time for the good stuff to happen. The engine bays looking good. Cross member installed, Suspension installed. The front nearly ready for fuel cell, brake lines,steering lines and still have to put tower to rail brace in. The front is all mocked up and braces for grill and bumper done. Has a wrx front bumper installed and the brumby grill, still with to front guards to be flared to fit rims and tyres it will line up fine. I no the gap looks bad between the guard and bumper but trust me, when we finish it will look fine. Radiator mounted and ready for piping up. And for the first look at the rear flared guard. Still some work to do. Not to sure what to do at the front lower section of the guard, but a spoob load or cardboard and tape will come up with something. Its taking a long time to get to this stage but now enjoying making and fitting stuff.

Thanks for your advice about the T tops. We are going to replace them with a lighter alloy or pollycarb pieces but for now they look cool.

The steering almost done What you think

Done some more work on the brat Check it out

the drip rail and got an old 365x720 18" wheel of a mate. spoob its wide

back again. Have done a lot to the brumby since late post. Added drip rails from legacy. Just trimmed the outer section and welded in place. refitted the brumby door rubber and it fits all good. cant show any pics as I'm out of space in my gallery, will work on that. Also have taken nearly 5kg's out of each door and the same out of the tail gate. fixed a lot of rust. started in the front and are pretty much at the back. added the front grill mounts and linked the headlight surrounds and grill together. Look not to bad. Ill try and get some pic's up soon.

Back again with an update. Well the span spardnubbin decides to full my page up with shi........... But its been a while since i posted anything. 10 hour shifts at work have set us back a bit but we have done some stuff This is the tie rod end mount. Its off a L300 mitzi van and the L300 tie rod ends fit on the inner and Subaru tie rod ends fit on the outer. So this is for the rear cross member to fix the steering arms. So made it to bolt up to the steering bolt hole. This is the brace we made to strengthen the front rail. Started the front reinforcement. The rest of the stuff we have done is fixing rust and holes and stuff like that. Must make a video at some point. L8ter

Pics of bottom arm mounts ordered some camber plates for the front struts. They are about 60mm sorter then the ones I've got and will fit higher into the tower. should fix the problem until we finish the build and see how it sits. height adjustable will be in the future

well made a bit of progress this week finished front cross member for mock up Come up with a plan for fitting arms. Had to cut some of the rail to fit arm. But because the rail also has a flat wide and long plat attached along the inside of the rail we decided to use the other cross member that holds the old strut rods and mod it a little. We have also sat it all in with the arms and put a hole with welded bolt and you can see the piece we have to remove from the rail. No problems. Looks good and strong. just have to sort something out with outer mount. Fix and reinforce rail again. Now the problem is that the car is going to be a lot lower in the front than usual so when we went to setup the front struts we found they are the long. I had some old 700ld spring out of the back of my Honda racecar which are sorter but it doesn't give us a lot of travel. Anyone know what other struts will fit. Need to be about 100mm shorter. (on the cheap) Might have to go to the wreckers and have a look.

Well its been a while. Winter and no cover to work under and big changes at work mad things difficult but we have managed to bang a few thing together. I've managed to get a rolling wrx wagon semi stripped which someone had taken the engine and loom for and old legacy build. So got it for $350 nz with a engine and everything I need to get the thing rolling. Already taken the front cross member out. Stuck the cross member under the brumby and come up with a plan. So you can see it will work not bad. The brumby cross members original holes come inside the wrx ones. So it made sense to use them, as long as we don't go to big with the nuts and bolts it'll fit fine. We also have finished the rear towers. Still bracing from the cage and stuff to come. Also done a big chunk of the front firewall. (still bracing to be done) Peddles mounted, booster and clutch, accelerator. So next step Finish cross member Front shocks lower control arms. Looking at them will probably notch and strengthen the main rails otherwise we have to block the cross member down which will raise the front up. In a months time I'll be going to a 4 day on 4 day off 10 hour day roster, and 6 day on 2 day off roster 10 hour roster. So more time to work on the old girl.

Sorry I havn't posted anything of late as I just had the final round of the summer race series. Went good and bad. The good is I posted my best lap time on this track and it was on average rubber. The bad is that in the last race I had a brake problem. I mean the peddle went to the floor while trying to brake. spoob Pumped it a number of times and managed to pull it up a little but only 3/4 around corner. So ended up going off into the grass ( this is past the kitty litter ) and into the tyre wall. Put a dent in my front left guard and pushed my bumper in a bit but the tyre wall did its job. So I suppose good luck there. So also decided to rebuild the engine for the winter series. Had a refurbished block sitting there waiting. Its a Honda B16B engine running a few good parts. And put a 4.8 final drive in it. So should get out of the corners better. Its only 139kw at the front wheels but being light it goes pretty good. So just got to put in gear box oil, brake in oil and coolant in and she'll be up and running. Plus the weather here has been spoob. Rain and no cover to work under. Anyway should have something up next week. End