Hanover Fist

Hello Peeps! Earlier this spring I was asked by a WRX driver about the purpose of an exhaust port that is open below the engine of my 84' brat. I explained that it must help somehow in pushing out the engine exhaust. Then the kid went Einstein on me and started asking technical questions about "scavenging" and warning me about getting fresh air to the valves. I laughed him off at the time, but the little spoob got me to thinking. 84' technology for a standard Soob... the exhaust port must be there to help keep the velocity up so the car doesn't stall out right? So I tiptoed thru the archives for months pulling up a number of various topic headings and created more questions than answers. I'm at a loss....So I'm looking for a little knowledge! Here's my questions now... Regarding this 80's design of an open port and the issue of back pressure, is there a sacrifice of the lower end or mid range power vs stalling out? If I replace the stock exhaust with a newer replacement, will it run like crap if I use a larger diameter exhaust? (2" instead of 1 3/4") Any directions or answers are much appreciated.

So there's a member on this forum who did a great write up on struts and springs. He rules his kingdom in a canary yellow soob thats decked out! Here's the link... https://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/106807-improved-shock-absorbers-and-spring-coils-on-loyales/?hl=%2Breplacement+%2Bstrut+%2Bcoils Best of luck! H

Hello all! First things first...have a safe and memorable 4th of July! Thank you veteran's for this holiday. I have a standard 84 brat (non turbo) with an 85 GL 5speed duo tranny. This will be my first front driver side axle replacement. Do I replace the axle with an 85 GL axle replacement or stay with the 84 brat? I'm not to sure if the spline count changed. Any help is truly appreciated. Thanx in advance.

Took me a bit to locate another 6 pole FPCU (non turbo of course!) and like a country song played backwards - everything got fixed (wife comes back, kids love ya, truck starts run'n and you find your dog!) I mean electrical issues 1 - 4 got fixed - dash lights work! Idle is back to normal. Hell even my door buzzer is back! Thanks guys for the knowledge and advices! I'll do my best to stay on top of issues but goddamn this is a cool place to get help on an "immediacy" tip. **** To whomever reads this topic - DONATE to help this site stay afloat! If there was ever a site to keep up and going, this is one of them! **** Two-Fingers!

Never heard of this. Nor did I think to try that. Is this a safe hack?

FerG I'm not sure 'bout only having 2 wires again. I have a yellow wire coming off my NEG post and two black wires coming off my ignition coil. One leading to the condenser which I marked in the photo. Here's the pic

I have what's called a "noise reducer" coming off the Ignition coil. It is grounded. A mechanic in a Denver soobie shop put it on and explained to me why it was missing. has something to do with hearing the engine rev thru the radio. Here's a schematic showing it belongs there Is this incorrect? I'll take a pic of the condenser L8r today. You are also correct about the "V vs Amps" correction. It was very late when I posted my request and I dunno what the hell I was think'n (auto pilot I guess). Now what's this thing about a "newer" FPCU? Got a link or a direction you can point me in? And BTW thanx for your advice!!!

Ok peeps! As the title stated, I'm chasing an electrical gremlin in my brat which ended up being a loose ignition coil grounding wire on my EA81. Long story short, my brat died on the road. Everything shut off. Opened the fuse box to a blown ignition coil fuse. (Now here's where I did the dumbest thing a person in my predicament shouldn't do.) I didn't have a 15v fuse. I only had a 20a fuse so guess what I did? Yup! Then I turned the key and blow the fuse again. Next day I towed it back to my shop where I had the right fuses. This time I went to turn it over but all I got was a clicking noise coming from my fuel pump. Time to chase the current with my voltmeter. First thing I noticed was the ignition coil appeared needing replacing as my Accel yellow super stack looked like a cork had broken and oil was leaking out the plug hole. The voltmeter read zero on the ignition coil so I replaced it with a new one. Now it reads 12.6V. (Happy I am.) I went to restart the brat but it just kept turning over. No FUEL coming in!!! So now I know I've got to follow the current from the ignition coil to the fuel pump. The ignition key switch reads 12.6V. When I turn the key on, I get 12.6V at the fuse box ignition coil fuse and when I follow the wire to the next point it leads me to the FPCU or revolution switch. Here's where I'm stuck! The FPCU has a 6 pole connector. When I test the switch I find only one wire hot and that is the single blue wire on the bottom row in the center slot. Now how does this relay work when on? Is the single blue wire the hot wire going IN? Isn't there another wire that's suppose to be hot as well going to the fuel pump? I did a test on the power connector going to the fuel pump and zero volts. So I got curious and popped open the FPCU switch. I think the circuit board took a hit when I dropped in a 20a fuse at the side of the road. Here's some pics of the board... Can you see the melted circuit around the resistors soldering points? I'm thinking this is the stopping point to my gremlin. So I decided to go to the junkyard and pull a couple switches that were identical to mine. Upon replacing the switch I see my voltmeter still shows only the one hot wire. The clicking noise stopped on my fuel pump. What else can I do? I had the disty, plugs and wires checked I'm at a lost here. Any advice is appreciated.

Now this is what I'm talking about. Thanks Sparkyboy!!! This fixed the problem

Notice the size difference on the steering shaft that occurs inside the ignition lock housing. The rear bearings, parts number 11, 10, 9 and 8 has a larger diameter bearing needed.

Hey Sparkyboy! Here's a pic of the parts you sent me. Notice it fits the shaft where the front ignition bearings are. These would be parts number 6, 5, 4, 57 and 3 from my diagram I posted.

I'm on the PM tip.....thanx-a-mill!

Hello. So I've been pulling my hair out looking for the reason why my BRAT's steering moves up and down by an inch or so. Make a long story short, I've been nickel and dimed out on this issue. In the end I discovered the previous owner replaced the ignition lock. This person must've chucked the old part out to include the rear SPRING, NEEDLE, RACE and STOP RING!!! (parts no. 8, 9, 10 & 11). Buying a new ignition lock did not come with the internals and is not supplied surprisingly. Went to my local junk yard only to be told "...you just gotta buy the steering column and take it apart at home to get to those parts needed." Paid the $60 bucks only to find out the steering I bought out of an 85 GL had its ignition lock replaced with the same issue of missing the internals. Does anyone know where I can buy these parts?

dfoyl- a small caption described that the engine from a 1980 VW rabbit diesel truck engine was dropped in that brat...I was just hoping to pick the guys brain. Thanks for the response tho

Oh! ok will do..