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06SubLegTx

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Everything posted by 06SubLegTx

  1. Hello, I have a few questions. 1. Does anyone on this site ever installed one of these on there cars? 2. Do they work? Could you see or feel the difference? 3. Is there a secret to getting in on without causing blunt trauma to the balancer? FYI, I have read there return policy and they say treat this like it a new born baby. 4. Where did you get it from and where you happy with them? How 5. I have not tried to install mine. I want to get what I paid for IF it will fit. see below I purchased mine from THMotorsports online. When I received it, I took it from the box immediately noticed that li look used, I have called them twice now, and I am getting the run around. They offered $50.00 off if I would keep it. I told them I want what I paid for a NEW one, not scratched or anything. Just send me a new one.... This is what I recieved, thoughts?
  2. I would only use Subaru parts. Even "Gates Timing Kits" are now putting a few "China" bearing in there "All Japan Kits" which is a BS in my opinion. I was unlucky, have only owned my 2006 Subaru Legacy 2.5i Limited for only one month, and the car having 99,255 on it. I was considering doing the work, but I waited to long. The Tensioner Bolt snapped, (Who ever owned the car before me always took it to a Non-Subaru place for repairs, I believe they used a impact wrench/or over torqued the bolt, and the tensioner was leaking.... It bent all 4 intake valve. I am also putting a new Radiator, Water Pump, Thermostat, Oil Pump 11mm, New Subaru Head Gaskets, Head Bolts. Don't take a chance
  3. Hey, no broken parts, and no rear end damage. I am thinking about getting new oem ones. I may go to other car lots and see how other 06 Legacy without a wing act first before I order new torsion bars
  4. Hello, My 2006 Legacy 2.5i Limited (No Spoiler) When I release my trunk lid with the fob, I can hear it release from latch and see it raise a little maybe 1/4 of a inch at most, after I raise it up and get about 75% up, it will go up mostly on it own, and stay up, unless it is really windy. Do the two torsion bars wear out this fast? Are they hard to change? Thanks for any help
  5. I'm sure this has been asked before. What Sealants are to be used on these applications? Oil Pump: Oil Pan: Rocker Covers (I know there is a seal that is there already, but from what I have seen "on the net" is it still doesn't hurt to run a bead around the Cover Lid Lip) true or false, if so what kind: Transmission Pan: Thanks
  6. Update: I guess I will be the FIRST person to put Bilstein B6 on a 2006-2009 Legacy on this forum. I see a lot of lookers, but no replies. I have my new Bilstein B6 all done. New Mounts, New Spring both front and rear. Ready to be installed in a little while. I will attach images before and after when I do it.
  7. UPDATE: Well, I finally got the engine out. As I was unbolting the heads, I noticed that the Passenger Side (original head) was a LOT LOT harder to break free than the driver side (one with new/rebuilt head). It seem almost twice as hard to me. I removed both heads, the Passenger Side is all apart. The cam/journal look very good where the cam lays, it has really good. The Driver Side is 98% apart except for one 3mm (hexagon) bolt near the cam gear that looks like might is meant to also be a guide, because of the raise collar around it, and acts like it wants to strip out. (to the machine shop) All of the Intake Valves are bent. I could see where the Valve came in contact with the piston because of the impression it put on the carbon on top of the piston, and of course a bent valve. I still want to get the carbon off to inspect the piston. It looks like none of the Exhaust Valve guides have dropped, and no buildup of carbon on the exhaust valves below. I did have one exhaust manifold bolt come out (did not strip) come out of the head. The head gasket they used on the replacement head was a Felpro PermaTorque MLS # 26415pt gasket. On the passenger side (the original head on the car) I noticed a little corrosion and color (on the like the head gasket was going to develope a leak (glad I found that) even under my situation. The Oil Pump is a 10mm one, but I may upgrade to a 11mm. I will of course put in all new Subaru (Japan) parts in the Timing Belt area, along with new seals. The crank seal was not leaking, and the cover on the back was not either, but everyone says that cover should get changed/resealed.
  8. Axlespinner, Try this site it seen to be very accurate. https://www.wheel-size.com/calc/
  9. The place is called: Automotive Machine & Supply, Inc. 212 Carroll Street Ft Worth, TX 76107 (817) 335-9331 or (800) 210-9331 https://www.automotivemachine.com/ They will be relocating in late May 2017 to and they are suppose to be able to keep the same phone number. 5215 Conveyor Drive Cleburne, TX 76031 Eric, and the staff are very friendly. They won't EVER try to rip you off or mislead you ever, Eric tells it like it is. They really care about the work they do. I had headwork done on my 95 Volvo 850 (Canadian Version 2 valve cylinder head) and they did a great job. The areas of there expertise is mainly in import stuff: Subaru, Volvo, BMW, Saab, Porsche, Honda, Toyota, VW Bugs, Volkswagen, Harley Davidson and other motorcycle engines. They also do custom work, as you can see on the website I hope this helps, when they move I will update, they are going to inspect my heads in a few days
  10. Thanks, I will definitely keep that in mind. One of the ground straps on the lower part of the head on the driver side broke when I tried to undo it, I could see there the bolt had been previously fatigued
  11. I know a Machine Shop where blocks, heads etc are done. I don't know of mechanics shops if that is what you mean
  12. Okay, I have them case I have a bet valve etc, then I will have to. There is a machine shop in Ft Worth that specializes in Subaru, Volvo, Honda, VW and Harley Davidson engines. They do great work.
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