06SubLegTx
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Everything posted by 06SubLegTx
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I won't be able to removed the engine until this weekend. I have to get an Engine Hoist and stand tomorrow. After the engine is out, I am going to take off the heads for two reasons. 1. The passenger side is the original head gasket and I want to inspect it to be safe. 2. The driver side has a newer head (looks like new head and that was not on the carfax report) I'am curious and I want to inspect it. Since the engine is out I putting all new Subaru Seals (Both Cam Seal, Crank (Front & Rear), Oil Separator Cover & Hardware (FYI- I have all the proper tools to install the seals in and I planned for this) just didn't think it would be this soon. It's also getting new (Subaru Only) Thermostat, Temperature Sensor Sending Unit, Oil Pressure Sending Unit, PVC, Crank Sensor Again, thanks everyone, and if you have thoughts I am open to them.. Mike
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Lucky, and everyone else thanks for the comments. Lucky, the Part # 9 is correct...and it was my lucky day, I went to Subaru today, and while speaking with the parts guy, and a mechanic. I showed them my image of the broken part. They said they could help me. They had a engine replacement job almost done and the engine coming out was junk, so we compared part number, and the one I needed was on the junk engine, and in perfect shape..... they gave me the part for FREE...these guys are AWESOME. I'm going to pull the engine out anyway to inspect and replace what is needed, Front / Rear Crank Oil Seals, Cam Seals, Oil Pan Seal, Oil Pan Pickup (I have heard they can break), Anything wrong with the heads, new head bolts, gasket/seals and new guides and valves if needed... Thoughts? am I missing anything? Again, thanks to everyone here
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Read my post: 2006 -2009 Legacy 2.5i Limited Rough Cold Idle
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I'm worried about the portion of bolt that is in the hole where the Tensioner mounts to.. I'm hoping that when the person who used a impact wrench or had the incorrect torque specs didn't crank it down really hard, so when I drill it out, and use a easy out, that it will come out without any more damage.
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GD, thanks a bunch.... I'm going to just pull the engine since I think I will have bent valves.... that way I can get the broken bolt out with better access
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Thanks, That is what I was thinking....
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GD, I purchased all the stuff from Subaru, and was going to do it a week ago... should have listened to my intuition. Do you think I will be able to extract the old bolt out, and hope they didn't strip it? Are heli-coils really that reliable? If I going to do all the valves I might as well measure the valve tappets (buckets) to?, Head Gaskets Bolts? Have you ever heard of this being done? Inserts
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Okay, it's a 2006 Legacy 2.5i Limited. I have owned this car for about a month and half or so. It has 99,500 on it. Today I am driving and the engine loses power/stalls, I try to restart it, with no luck. I get the car home and want to make sure the timing belt was moving properly. When I remove the small part (driver side) I see metal shavings. I could press the timing belt down at least a 1/2" and I know that not good. I was honestly feeling a little sick/kind of depressed. I let the engine get cold before draining the antifreeze. Remove all the stuff (belts, alternator, harmonic balancer etc) I take the remaining bolts out of the timing belt cover, and there it is, the Timing Belt Tensioner bolt had sheared off.... the tensioner was just floating it its area kind of... I know the timing had to have moved, if you see the picture with the belt, the clip is to show you where it was... According to Carfax the car had a cam seal(s) installed and Timing belt tensioner & Idler check on 10/10/16 @ 96,764 miles at a NON Subaru repair place in Round Rock, TX... I won't say who YET but they should have seen the tensioner leaking, and they of course didn't. Now what to do next... I don't want a junkyard engine because - You get someone else issue. Thoughts
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GD, what about using a "Synthetic Blend"?
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Update: The parts guy at Subaru told be heard about a issue with some Subaru vehicles in the generation had the dash melting. He found the letter/bulletin and showed it to me. It's what the technicians call "Sticky Dash". The parts guy had my dash in his current inventory. I scheduled a appointment with the Service Department and 4 days later they installed the new dash, left vent. Total cost to me was $0.00 cost. It looks great, no reflections on the glass from the melting plastic or whatever it is made of. As a thank you to the parts guy I gave him $100.00 cash and also purchased pizzas and soda the the entire Service Department that day. I believe this is one way Subaru and it staff show that they do care what the Subaru owners think.
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This is where I am looking. They sometimes offer free shipping in the winter months. Here is a link to my axles https://parts.subaruonlineparts.com/auto-parts/2006/subaru/legacy/2-5i-trim/2-5l-h4-gas-engine/front-suspension-cat/drive-axles-scat
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I have spoken to several Subaru Master Techs,they say the aftermarket axles will cause vibrations because they are not as refined as Subaru ones..
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How many miles on the car?
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Check the strut mounts, both front and rear
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How many miles on the car?
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Well, I found out what it was, and verified from a Subaru Tech. It is a Mode Relay that control where the want you heat and ac to exit from (Dash Vent or Windshield area etc) The Subaru Tech said that over time these relays motors fail because they have plastic gearing on the inside, and the gears wear out, become brittle and they no longer hold there specific parameters, and just constantly do a loop, cause this repetitive sound...
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Update: I found the issue(s) 1. The Plug Wires and the Coil are both the original ones that came on the car from the Factory in 2006 2. The #2 Spark Plug wire at some point either from the factory or when someone worked on it did not seat it all the way in the coil properly. 3. Because of item 2 was not done correctly and no Dielectric grease was used and the wire was not full seated, an electric arch was happening ever so slightly, this cause arching in the wire (I could see it and smell it), it also caused the coil port to get burnt to the point it was a pain just pulling out the old wire terminal end, and that deteriorated the conductor in the coil. Now the car has New Plugs with proper gap, New Wires and New Coil
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ok, I have no idea what oil is in it now... I wish I did..
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Cool, thanks for the info. What part of Texas are you in, if you don't mind me asking?
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I have been told from Subaru Master Tech it is 100,000 to 105,000 What are you thinking it should be?
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I don't think any shock or strut is meant to go 200k.....
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GD, can you explain why this is? Why different oils cause such bigger issues? I don't know what oil was used in the past, so, I'm not sure what to use. I have purchased all new Subaru parts for timing belt area, to include New Oil Pump (if the one that is on there has a 7 or 9 on the case), New Water Pump, Thermostat, all the idler & tensioner pulleys, coolant sensor, Thermostat and hoses and radiator...
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2006 with 99,370 on it
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Hello, My question is this. Is there a certain mile interval in which head gaskets should be replaced even if they are not showing any symptoms of leaking etc? I have heard some people say do it at 100k whether it needs it or not. Thanks for any advise
