cpiunno

I noticed at high RPM's my voltage guage was reading 18+ volts. It blew out the battery which holds no charge anymore. I ordered a new alternator and installed it. It worked well, but after about 15 minutes it went into the high voltage condition again. Could the blown out battery have ruined the new voltage regulator? Also, could something else have been damaged in the electrical system that destroyed the new voltage regulator? All the electrical items in the vehicle seem to be running properly.

The head is brand new, so I didn't think rust/corrosion would be an issue. I'll wrench at it some more. And yes, I stripped one of the exhaust studs. Oops.

I'm not sure if the RX has a speed signal, but I do know that the FATT will function properly without that lead connected. The FATT will let you time your 0-100kmph and it uses that lead to do so.

I'm having trouble removing these torx bolts from the head (see link below). Are they supposed to come out? If I put a breaker bar on them, they barely turn, and I'm afraid they're going to break if I apply any more pressure. http://www.teamyeti.com/bin/misc/exhaust1.jpg Thanks, Carmen

Timing was off by 180 deg. I fixed it. Thanks a lot for the quick replies! -Carmen

Yes, I moved the old distributor over. Perhaps it is not aligned properly. I will check that this evening. That is one thing I did not double check.

The Brat was leaking/burning oil so I decided to purchase a new ea81 from Colorado Component Rebuilders. I have the new engine installed now, but it will not start. I primed the engine, built up oil pressure. After that I connected the spark plugs. The engine turns over but does not try to start at all. It intermittently puffs white smoke out of the carburetor, and thats about it. I disconnected the fuel line to verify I was getting fuel. I disconnected the plug wires to verify I was getting spark. I used this diagram to to wire the distributor and plugs. This is correct for the distributor on a 82 Brat, I assume. Distributor Wiring My one concern: I have a couple of electircal plugs (probably somthing to do with emissions) that were not labled when I took the engine out of the car. Is it possible that if I failed to hook up these up correctly that the engine would not start at all?

monoxide, correct. I will look through the archives again, thank you.

Hey all. High co2 on emissions test, here in Colorado. I tried the GTP (guaranteed to pass) emissions brew. It lowered it substantially, but not quite enough to pass the test. What kind of things should I look at? I searched through archives and didn't see anything about this (although I'm sure there is something). Please direct me.

I will try to make it.

Yes, that is a "WRX Style" hood scoop on there. I figured I'd keep it in the family. Also the two colors of paint are both original Subaru colors. High Tech Red and Glacier White. I like to keep it in the family. Err.. I mean with cars...... A lot of prep work went into this. I completely sanded the car down to the original primer with a non-orbital sander. I fixed all dents and rust and primered/painted/clearcoated using a gravity gun. I estimate a total of 30 hours of work and $500 in paint/supplies. I will never do it again.

The moment of truth.

It is done. I will take pictures this evening for all to see. Valid concerns about the intake. I did incorporate a 'drain hole' so water will not get into my intake. I still need to restore my bumpers and POR15 my wheels.

Thanks for the help guys. The starter suggestion reminded me of a problem I had with my Eclipse a while back where it wouldn't turn over at all. I made the assumption that if the terminals were going bad that the car would be hard to start, not that it wouldnt turn over at all. I went ahead and replaced the battery terminals and its working good now. I'm always overlooking the little stuff.

My Brat wont turn over at all. I am able to jumpstart it so I went ahead and bought a new battery. I drove it around for 15 minutes with the new battery in and it still wont start. Like the battery isn't charging at all. The alternator is measuring 14 volts. The alternator was replaced 2 months ago and has been working for 2 months. I checked all fuses are good. What else could affect the charging system, other than thsi new alternator being bad?

I'm painting my 89 GL. The primer and paint cost about $200 and a friend of mine is loaning me the gravity gun. Here is a concept drawing: Cool, huh. The hood scoop is functional. A sheet metal duct directs air straight into the weber carb. I have the entire interior stripped out of the car (minus the two front seats and the dash). I even spent the time to remove the layer sound-deadening material inside the car. Everything I removed weighed about 100lbs. Good stuff. I'll update with pictures when I'm finished (which should be within a couple weeks). I call it "The Baja"

I'm measuring 2 milliamp current when my Brat is off. I know it doesn't seem like much but it seems to be enough to drain the battery to the point where the car doesn't start. I checked on my other subaru (89 gl) and it's 0 milliamp when the car is off. All lights are turned of on car, door is closed and stereo is completely disconnected. What might be drawing the current?