wagons

I've rebuilt these carbs so many times, and I found the easiest way to get them running perfect! Throw the SOB away! Follow exactly what GD says and never look back. No instructions are needed, if you need detailed ones follow jeszeks "ideas on swapping a Weber" thread. Buy a true made in Spain Weber, not an INTERCO Weber like I got ripped off on. It runs great, but let's face it, it's not a weber. One instruction I will say follow, plug carb warmer hole with jb weld aluminium/steel stick then mill it and the intake manifold flange flat. If you don't, leaks will find you fast.

Holding the throttle open and it started and stayed running? That right there gives me a hint that the throttle position sensor is bad. Starting with out it being open will fire but die. Starting with partial throttle now has a complete circuit. My old chevys are notorious for this, start with no throttle they fire and die. Start with trottle open, circuit is now open and ecu sees it and compensates fuel and timing. I may be way off but check the signal on the road or swap with one you know is good.

CTS is coolant temperature sensor. How many miles does your car have? Over 150k? If you put in a 12oz can of seafoam you might not have a restricted exhaust, or any electrical problems, you might have compression problems. Depending on how well the prior owner maintained this car. Sea foam will eat carbon build up that are on the rings, valves and all sorts of places carbon gets to. I did it to my 1982 Chevy last spring. $10 of seafoam cost me $1300 to replace the engine. I'm not trying to be a pessimist, but if the exhaust and CTS doesn't help and there is still extreme power loss and poor milage, it might be a good idea to find a compression tester and a leakdown tester. I made this mistake and would hate to see it happen to somebody else. My hopes are high for you

I use fel-pro permatorque head gaskets. No re-torque needed. I won't use a gasket twice after it's been torqued down, it's asking for leaks, but may not leak at all just a roll of dice. I'd make sure head is completely flat and then new head gaskets

I have never tried it but I have heard hot tank the heads with the lifters in. Usually results in lifters needing rebuilt (mizpah) but keeps those pressed in holders in place without damaging them. $28 for lifters is better than 8 million trips to yards looking for heads, pulling them off and still having the same issue

If it has a Weber then there should only be the pcv system, distributor advance, brake booster. That's like 6 hoses. Cap or even better seal all with some jb weld aluminium putty. Msd ignitions are great, on old hotrods which our subys are far from. if planning an event swap, save and buy a stand alone if you concerned that much. Ej22 can be made into beast engines with tuning. But also they are expensive as platinum to get power out of. A stock ej with bolt ons can net 160hp. That's nearly double the ea81 and ea83 engines. That's plenty of power and torque for our mid 2000lb cars

GD, I didn't mean any offense, I will definitely use your parts guy and buy genuine from him. I'm finding almost all aftermarket for other ea82 is not worth anything. That's why I say if you say recommend, use it!

If GD says get the parts from somebody, I would listen. I had an aftermarket clutch cable, simple advice, don't do it! I'm ordering a new clutch and throttle cable this weekend. Hey GD do you happen to have a throttle cable part number? To all Subaru owners, I believe we need to all kick GD $5 for a part number list ????

If your planning on doing clutch within the next year, it's worth pulling it now when your tying to "find" leaks and seal the whole dang thing and replace the clutch.. Felpro makes a great head gasket kit, just order Subaru genuine cam tower o rings and intake manifold gaskets, Mickey mouse oil pump gasket, oil pump seal. Make sure you get an exedy clutch, they are costly but the only ones i trust. How much is cash worth compared to headaches? These cars are headaches through and through but rewarding. I might only have 90hp but I get 35mpg with my Weber and I have a 4wd car that is a blast to drive

Pull the engine, do the clutch and all seals. It took me my first time only 3 hours to pull it.

There's 3 ea82 na cars at my local yard. I might have to go get all 3 sets of lifters to help out our community. I had replace mine with mizpah recently. Got rid of my ticket.

Have by any chance your tensioner or oil pump pulley bolts been stripped out then heli-coiled? The prior owner to my 87 did this, and put the bolt in at a slight angle. I had he same issue, belt would rub til it snapped. It walked all over the place. I had to take engine out and have the hole redone by a machine shop on a drill press to make it straight again. Fixed my walking belt problem.

Trailer it unless it has brand new tires. If you use a tow dolly it needs the driveshaft removed. what parts of Arizona are you coming too? I'm in Northern az in Prescott. Do the Weber, it makes a world of difference in acceleration, power, and sounds lightly agressive.

Take GDs advice and hollow it out. Cheap and effective

First advice check catalytic converter for obstruction. Next if you really want to make it run cooler I got two words for you, custom parts. I got quoted only $350 for a custom radiator much thicker and more surface area than my stock gl. Adding a small extra cooler on the turbo water lines might help, but a high cost is still involved

Hey jono, if you want to pay shipping Scott is he man to modify the distributors for you as well as the intake manifold.

How about going to harbor freight, spend $350 on a lathe, and make a bushing right and use delrin or poly Of you do that I'll chip $75 for my set, that's 30% of the lathe! Inject and fix old s GD suggested, or spend the dough, make them right and make all your soon to be paying customers happy!

You said if you pull the fuse the alternator light goes out? I would check wiring at the fuse block. Mine was a combination of things not charging. First I had to fix the short on the fuse block. Next I had to repair fusible link box which means special wiring tools( it's a sob to do, thanks Dave T for guidance) next I had to replace bad alternator and all wiring to do with charging system (30 years in Phoenix az= crispy). Then I read a very common problem which sealed the deal, ground straps from engine to chassis! All in all my car not being grounded caused major problems and helped fry a lot of components and even did damage to the heads= electrolysis. My gauge doesn't work from the factory since I fried it, but my AutoZone special Cheapo gauge matches my dvom outputs 100%. Hope some of this can help

Use only genuine Subaru intake gaskets. Fel-pros hold great, until the car is at operating temperature then they leak and leak fast. $22 from Peoria Subaru in Arizona. Worth not doing hg job in two months or mins.....

Time Sert are the best I have used. They have held on a cylinder head on my old 240SX that was pushing 30lbs of boost. They cost a pretty penny, but it will cost more to buy an engine or many components do to a poor thread. Also of cleaning threads don't use a tap. Put slots in an old bolt and make a "chaser"

I'd do what General Disorder had told you 10 times, swap the ej22! The EA81 block has to be split, bore and honed and if done proper, line honed in order to upgrade pistons and cam. Plan on $650 in LABOR only. Add cost of pistons and rings $200, add cam grind $100-200, ea82 manifold $40, add gakset set $100, add oil pump $100, add Weber swap $300. Is $1500 worth 90hp and no torque? $1500 I can buy an EJ22, Weber conversion, intake manifold and disty from SJR and have a carbed ej22 with 130hp and 130 ftlb. I wish I would have go this route and I'm only $600 in on my cars engine lol. Cool project, good luck and have fun learning!

Hey sparkyboy I'm not in Boulder, winmag the OP is. Im in Prescott Arizona and our altitude is about the same as Boulder so just trying to help him out lol. I wish I had support for suby here too, lots of sti and WRX here. Funny how my friend owns a 450hp bug eye WRX and was at my house. A lady came up and asked if the Subaru was for sale, he got proud and told her no. I was shocked when she said "dang, I've been looking for a 4wd wagon and they are hard to find". My friend was speechless as he thinks his car is the s***

My mains are 140 primary idle 60 secondary idle 55. Emulsion tubes are f35 I believe I could be wrong. 14° timing does the trick

Get an SJR intake manifold and modified escort dizzy, then add Weber 3236 and have the best of both worlds, power of an EJ22 and simplicity of a carburetor. Carb ej22 sound and look menacing, and are just AWESOME! Reliability has nothing to do with a carb or fuel injection, its maintenance and sometimes luck. My 2003 Bonneville has 289,000 and I beat on it because it's a super charged engine and it has perfect compression and leak down.

Ea81 mods should be replaced with EJ22 swap. $500-1000 for an EJ22 swap and it will make way more power than an ea81 ever will. If I ever get to the point of splitting a block I'm trashing it an doin an ej swap