wagons

Taller tires change speed and make the gears higher so let's go BIG or go home! I have seen a 3-cylinder Kubota in a bronco here in AZ. Good milage and easier to change gear ratios.

Send a picture to me. I have a Weber now and have all my emissions from my crap....tachi

I had to swap pumps, you are not alone! I put the first on, and the belt came off and almost slapped me. The factory fan sucks so it's a good idea to upgrade to electrics, but I'd recommend following GD and do the Maxima alternator swap as well

1stsubaruparts.com is where I buy my hard to get items. I get a good deal on everything. Good customer service, a little slow to ship but worth the wait for factory parts.

What vehicle? Check the fusible links. Sometimes they wobble lose

Ok you have have a spfi. It's a fuel injected engine

Hey DaveT, mine is an 1987 1.8 sohc vin 5. This means 4% of all built are the sohc with the carb I guess I stuk out on simplicity lol. So to the OP, is it fuel injected or carb? That will make diagnostics easier if we all know

Can't help ya i Australia but Carbsunlimited.com is who o use to get all my parts. They will ship international. I have a copy of a Weber from webercarbsdirect.com. I suggest NOT buying from them, as they told the prior owner it was made in Spain and it's a generic POS. It does the job but I'm even swapping for a real made in Spain Weber. Hitachi carbs are throw away.

To fix craptachi carbs is simple. Buy a Weber. The Hitachi can never be rebuilt to perform as new. I've done many and it's a joke with the rebuilder as the punch line. A properly tuned Weber will pass emissions with the stock airbox modified to fit it

If you have to pass emissions it might throw them off and give you a fail. Other than that no harm. I run mine basic. No egr, no asv. I have a pcv system and a carb.

So I did swap my primary idle jet from a 50 to 60 and it made a huge difference. I am at 5200ft elevation and the car actually didn't fall flat on it's face right off idle. I'd really get the high altitude jet kit

Make an egr pipe as Dave said Also swap disty and coil as you want them to match. Intake manifold will cross, I know this because I'm using a spfi set of heads with my carb block so yes it will bolt together and run. I did this because the new heads don't have asv and it helps clean up the engine bay.

Hopefully you can get them cleaned and not need a valve job. If they apart, $240 is worth a mill, and valve job. This way no leaking head gaskets or valves

Winmag, what elevation are you? I'm at 5200ft which isn't high, but enough so that my idle mixture is backed out 3.5 turns. Will be swapping the main idle jet which is a 50 for 60. That's what the prior owner had and it ran way smoother. Right now it idles at 850( cold mornings) and as soon as I touch he throttle it sputters and starves for fuel. Also need to play with time ng but I'll let you know in case it works for me

What the H are you pouring water into the ports for? There is a way to test valves. It's called a vacuum test and most machine shops do it for free. If any leak, a new set of guides and a valve job needs performed.

So definitely going to look at all vacuum lines and cables. Kinda strange but I took the car on it's first 15 mile drive since being fixed. The vents don't change i.e. heater to defrost but I actually got decent heat. Maybe there was still something blocking flow. I'll update tomorrow as I'll have time to work on it

Jono, you are using propane yes meaning a different country than USA? GD good call on Volumetric Efficiency, I forgot that even though that was used for my base map on my old 400hp Nissan. Jono I wouldn't say dynos cloud people, people cloud people. A proper set up Dyno and TUNER will make a car great. A bad one will end up like my turbo Dodge Daytona, in smoke! I have a good tuner here in AZ, and won't go to anybody else.

Engine at normal operating temp and both radiator hoses are hot, both heater hoses are hot. I think a door is open somewhere on this. I thought a 1987 GL was vacuum operated doors for the system? I could be wrong but I'm definitely looking for a stuck one that's letting in cold air

So after a nightmare of a wiring issue I have a new one. I need heat! I have a Weber swapped ea82 GL wagon. The heat is not hot. It's a coolish warm. I also have no control, it is stuck on blowing on the heat setting only. Since I have a Weber, can somebody tell me where the vacuum line goes in the proper place in the engine compartment? I already back flushed the system. Still no luck. Any tips tricks and how to's will be taken. I'll even send my Christmas fruitcake from last year to whoever is he biggest help.

Dyno the car and let us know! In a non turbo car theory is basic. Atmospheric pressure at sea level is 14.79 psi. Add 7 psi of boost. Pressure is now 21.79 psi. So if at sea level say an Acura Integra GSR makes 180hp. Now we are adding an additional 7psi. Pressure is now 21.79. so by adding 7 psi, a 48.8% power increase is possible. Making the total 260hp. Doesn't always equal out but increasing pressure makes more power as long as there is cooling and tuning. So crank it and let us know when she blows!

I'm assuming since it's a 1989 it's fuel injected. I bought a 1987 GL a few months ago for a 300 and I've put 900 more into it. I will second that if you payed $60, you have at minimum $600 worth of maintenance, that's only a $660 car, a steal for a Subaru that will run for another 10 years if maintained. So at 10 years of life, your payment is $5.50 a month after you put $660 into it. $600 can get you a fuel pump, timing kit, cam tower o rings and intake manifold gaskets, complete tune up, a CTS(trust me replace it), and alot of other stuff. Congrats on the find.

A big thanks out to DaveT! I traced and replaced broken wires in the fusible link box as per his instructions. He helped me solve my "no charge". After getting power in all the right spots via test light, I have now 13.75 volts at the battery and alternator! I picked up a brand new dvom and found out the only thing going wrong is my stupid dash gauge is not working!

I have a Haynes manual and the wiring diagram seems to be spot on. I got smart and took off all the interior plastics and was poking around at wires. However I did notice that my ignition switch is.lose, like very lose. Pushed it in on the backside where the wires come out and the red/white wire lit up full and bright on the fuse box. Alternator Gauge went slightly up for a second. Problem is tilt column an no switch available for tilt columns. Thank God I knew this and bought a spare use column a while ago. Going to try and swap that in and see if a makes a difference

Score! Good to hear. Might want to change jets regardless just to have improved power and economy

The red and white one is hit and miss. One minute it has power flow and next it has none. It will dim then bright on the test light. Black and White is a solid bright glow in test light. In fuse box I am not getting current through the fuse, but both brown and red/white sensor wires have power so I'm at a total loss of why it's not charging. It has good tension on belt and not squealing and is rotating as it should. I have heavy duty ground straps in place. Could a bad battery make it show no voltage?