wagons

Thanks DaveT. I got them apart and rewired and soldered. Made some progress, I have power but new alternator still not charging. It runs but the gauge only registers 8 volts. Somehow I managed to drop and break my dvom so now I'm at a loss

So I am having major no charge issues on my ea82 1987 GL carb 1.8 SOHC. the wires have become brittle and found 2 broken way up inside the fusible link box. Is there a way to separate these wires from inside the fusible link box so I can run new wires into the fusible link box? Or is there a way to make a new fusible link box? No power going to battery, so no charge. Any help is appreciated

Redline Weber sells a high altitude jet kit. Start there and move forward

I decided to fall in and buy a new alternator. Before with old alternator, brake fluid, charge light would not come on with the key in on or starting. Car would fire up, but reading only 9v while running. Now I have those lights so I got a little further. I believe I am going to have to rip the loom of and do a wiring job with new wire. The old wire is brittle and it's the only thing that makes sense to me now.

So DaveT, you seem to be good at electrical. I hooked up my dvom to the battery, tested 13.3 volta car not running. started car and checked battery, it is jumping all over. I'm pretty sure this means my alternator has dumped on me right?

I suggest tiling the car on its side...... Jk but on a serious note when my old key broke off deep in the cylinder I lowered down the steering column, disconnected the shaft and put it on a bench flat with key facing down. A few light taps with a rubber mallet knocked it out. Sometimes this works others it wont. I'd rather spend 20 mins attempting to knock it out rather than paying a locksmith an hourly rate.

Got main negative battery cable from bellhousing to battery. One similar size going to the strut tower, or should it be like a steel part like the subframe? Didn't think of it before, the fusible links being bad could mess up my day too some I'm going to put he new square ones in like a just read in another post. It just won't charge and battery and alternator is brand new. My Impreza did the same and found out it was bad grounding.

Got new connector on alternator. Battery tested good, alternator tested good. Still showing 8 volts on gauges and reading 8.6 on dvom. this tells me my alternator is bad. Replaced alternator and still same story. Could i have a bad ground or not enough ground? My Impreza with alloy block need like 8 to function so maybe? On the alternator there is a stud that has a "e" next to it, does this mean a ground? Also I guess I am missing more ground straps than I thought after searching.Does anybody have knowledge of where grounds need to be? Please and thanks in advance.

Ea82 carb, I keep missing that. Thanks jono.

Prior owner cut the "t" plug on the alternator wiring. Does the red/white wire go to the top or the bottom on the plug? I got a new one from my auto electric store. Trying I get it all right the first go round

I just got a plug threaded in and sealed with jb weld steel stick and then regular high heat jb weld. No leaks and no white smoke! Now she fired up and just trying to understand the idle. Of course I am getting lifter tick now lol.

I find my leaks by putting in UV dye. It makes finding leaks very simple and effective as it leaves a trail all the way to the leak. $15 can save tons of time and even money in the end

I'm going to see him tomorrow about welding it. He recommended I put a threaded plug or rod down first before spending money on welding. Would it hurt to press a small rod down to the bottom of the hole? Coolant can still flow around it, but it would give enough closure for jb weld to bite to?

That hole is just a hole, nothing even big enough for anything to catch to seal it lol. It leaks like a sob! Yeah skishop69, I saw my fabricator and it's $115 for welding the inside and out side perimeters of the adapter plate. I also get a 1 year warranty lol. He just finished a customer intake manifold for a BBC that is pushing 40psi boost and ys holding so I trust him lol. $115 ain't bad considering I spent that in 4 days driving my 1982 Chevy utility bed work truck just this week.

I have a picture posted above. The top hole is the problem. Monday I'm taking it to a Fab shop and getting a quote to make it permanent and having the adapter welded both inside and out

The small hole at the top of the intake manifold is larger than ones I've seen at the salvage yard. The prior owner dremeled down the water pipe so there is nothing for jb weld to catch on. I'm wondering how to fill that small hole. I have been told to buy an aluminum bar stock and press it in then jb weld, but if that comes loose then it can f up the cooling system and/or ruin a head. Any suggestions that work I will try

The hole is like 3/4 inches by 1/2 inch. Maybe I'll thread it and put a plug then jb weld over the plug so water can still pass underneath it? The hole is for the carb heater but it is massive! Lol

Ok so now more problems i need a definite answer on. The prior owner had the intake manifold welded. Turns out the weld failed! So how do I block off this coolant passage? Can I weld fill it all the way into the bottom of the hole, or does coolant absolutely have to travel trough the intake manifold? The owner had a piece of aluminum plug made and tried welding it, allowing water to flow under it and it did not work!. Please tell me I can just completely fill this hole with aluminum welding. I had it started and running great until again white coolant smoke. Fml

No offense but this isn't 1920 lol. Engineers did hours and years of r&d to improve engine efficiency. The pcv system is there for a reason. Breather filters do not do the same thing as a pcv system does. PCV systems are designed to create a vacuum and "pull" crankcase pressures and harmful vapors out and bring good clean air in. Only using breathers can actually damage the engine at a fast rate. Oil pumps can cause cavitation, as now gasses are mixing with oil and causing the oil to foam up and no oil to be pumped. The engine can run hotter than optimized for meaning less fuel economy, higher emissions and a crappy running car. Take all this with a grain of salt because right now I am only a keyboard warrior and not an engineer. Improving efficiency is what a Weber swap does. Why cheap out and make it worse?

Thanks djellum. I am going to definitely try and find it's sweet spot. I found Weber's on subys definitely like between 12-20°. I got told with this elevation by my VW mechanic to try 12-14° as we sit high so we can run a little more advanced timing curve.

Sorry Dave EA82 OHC carb with a Weber. I developed a coolant leak so it's all apart again as the prior owner drilled into a coolant passage on the intake manifold, I am having it fill welded and tapped again for the bigger bolts. I had timing set at 6° btdc thank god when I started it. After reading Jeszeks Weber guide I will be setting it between 16-20 depending on how well it runs as I am at 5200ft elevation.

Thanks for the clarification. My buddy just timed his, all the way at the 10 atdc mark. So I think that's why he'd had some major driving issues. I am cleaning the flywheel and using white out to mark the timing lines. Fills the grooves nice and really works with a timing light.

So I have been looking up distributor timing threads and cannot find my answer. Bring the flywheel to "0"puts tdc on number 1 piston. However when flashing the timing light, which way is btdc? Numbers in clockwise rotation (right of zero) on flywheel show up to 20 And left of zero (counterclockwise) up to 10. Which numbers are advance and retard? I don't want to f this up as it fires right up but needs timed. Thanks in advance

Thanks GD I was hoping you'd Chime in. I will try that today.

Yeah water is pouring out the screw. It's the front passenger side carb mounting screw/bolt. They tried to repair a thread and cut way too deep in, right into the coolant passage