Badchad14
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Everything posted by Badchad14
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I had my tools stolen and in it was my crank pos sensor from my 03 outback 3.0 H6. What other car in a junkyard could I pull this part from as it's a magnetic type sensor 2 wire that I am sure is used alot. But who knows exactly.
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My motor is fried. No metal on top side left and intake cracked. Probly scrap this for the 100 dollars and hope to buy the legacy gt sedan.
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Wheel speed sensor or abs sensor. I begged this fellow to get ahold of me as I will beg borrow steal to buy this vehicle.
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- outback
- Love my subie
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At this point in time the axle failure is irrelevant unless the binding and breaking caused the failure which in my mind yeah it probly did have a large part of this happening. Trans and engine rebuilt 94000 miles ago and it's at 261xxx. Money is all I need to get it going and jobless unemployment isn't gonna buy me a damn thing. Where to I start obvious pull the engine and trans but least expensive option to get it built up again. Any ideas.
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Well here is the too of motor under the intake tubing. Catastrophic failure just as I suspected. Only worse than what I originally thought. Hope the pic loads. Need a new engine block. Both halves. What's the best route to go in this situation. Funny thing car still starts and runs. No oil and half the engine missing. Subie all the way. Advice?
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Diff fluid prior was a tad over full but leaking a tad where clicking axle was and I replaced seal. Drained and filled to proper level. Gonna go out and push car to apt parking lot as fire and police investigators finally left today. And look for where the fluid came from. 98% sure its engine oil. Will post in a bit when I have answers.
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Trans I may wait to try just depends on how bAd the engine part is damaged.
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What's the best manual to have handy while tackling this beast any suggestions?
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I am thinking a major overhaul here. If I could drive 12 hours I got a trans replacement for 150 but not gonna happen. But first step I am thinking pull the transmission apart from the engine see what damage has occured.
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This is where I am learning everything from scratch. Auto trans. Valve body clutch pack all foreign words but I am gonna learn as much as I can right now. And yeah I know the very basic operation of auto never cracked one open or rebuilt. Would it have done enough damage to just keep slipping I assume once they wear from all the slippage they don't recover. And wouldn't torque convertor or flexplate more explain the possible rear main (not confirmed) completely failing and all the engine oil pumping out.7
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Torque convertor damaged by the transaxle fighting itself with two different axles seems more to me an explanation. The car ran flawlessly other than the axle click pass side which I should have left alone the car was in perfect driving condition. The axle that same day is when everything other than the wire to solenoid in trans which I fixed prior to axle, even with torque convertor solenoid ground fault I think was the code, it ran flawlessly. Shifted maybe a tad hard but nothing crazy.
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Got car towed home. Whatever we xploded I can't directly see as skid plates are in the way. I use delvac 15w40 engine oil, have in all my Subies, Az heat etc leaks slow, but engine dumped all the engine oil out. Started and ran before I cut it off cuz oil is all dumped out somewhere. Looks like coolant and engine oil haven't pinpointed the explosion but rear main I guess on glance without removing skid plates. Back to trans issue. Before I swapped the axle for the wrong part given to me, I drained trans to repair the severed wire and changed filter and fluid. Added Lucas and level was perfect and color was beautiful. I service vehicles for a career manage oil lube shops so fluids and levels I consider myself expert on. After repairing the wire the MIL light immediately turned itself off I then changed the axle out and drove a bit and seemed ok. Well next time I left the axle exploded. Bearings all fell out and race completely cracked in half. Also was slipping the trans no 3 or 4 gear and 1 and most of 2 but 2 started the slip. Checked to see if the fluid level was ok, was. Went home dropped pan to test or check wire on solenoid and the fluid looked like it was candy apple red with lots and lots of metallic flake. Saturated with metal shavings that were not there before. Put new axle in went to test drive lost same gears again and hike driving at pretty high RPM to try and get home lost all the engine oil. Prior to that the throttle bogged way down when I tried to take off just the last two miles before fluid explosion.
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I will do so and no I will only ever buy Subaru. So I will learn as I need to and this one I will rear down starting today.
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Here is my issue. Unemployed. I live in area where if I don't drive I can't get to a job. Been wasting a week and a half and can't get it home and until I rip it apart I really won't know what really happened. Losing my faith in Subaru real quickly. I still don't know what blew up. Suddenly wouldn't accelerate without flooring it then wouldn't move without RPM over 3000. I think new motor is also needed. I will see tomorrow
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Sorry still dealing with a house fire next door so can't answer so quickly. And why was the car running perfectly prior to installing new axle. Other than check engine light for torque converter switch solenoid perfect running car. I decided to replace axle only cuz of clicking sound bad axle makes and torn CV boot. Tried posting pic will try again
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Here is one.
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I will enlighten but apartment next door just went up in 60 foot flames. Had to evacuate and outside no shirt shoes etc. Trans wire issue it was to the solenoid on the underside of trans pan and had a code for torque convertor solenoid I don't remember exactly. I dropped pan changed fluid and filter repaired the wire and code went away and never had another issue until I installed the first axle the incorrect part. How do I post pics on here.
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I have 24 hours to decide as I can't afford to tow the car home. No job right now been working on the car trying to get to better job searching.
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Okay. How much of this could have been caused by the parts warehouse giving me the wrong axle and me.instalking it and having none of this prior to the wrong axle now is completely undrivable. Before I changed the axle I had no trans no problems other than clicking sound. Put wrong axle in the axle exploded and was obviously incorrect now with obvious right axle installed completely blew the engine or transmission. Car won't start at all anymore and some oil I assume gear oil as it was not red but blew up when test driving after correct axle in but damage already done from wrong axle. Help I am about to scrap this car or should I pursue parts company in fixing the whole thing.
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Flexplate please expand on that. And borked trans?
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Update. Got ten miles out in a test run exploded. Don't know what the axle is fine. Maybe gear oil it's pretty thick and clean and my 260000 mile engine doesn't keep oil clean. I am thinking torque convertor. That's my original thought but why the hesitation while accelerating why did I suddenly lose 3rd and 4th gear again. I don't know and have no codes showing. Had a EGR code but reset everything and nothing came back on except abs. Torque convertor failed and maybe engine output shaft snapped or something. Horrible noise now when trying to crank and won't start. I couldn't pinpoint the source of leakage but I give up. Crush the car and get a 100 dollars out of it. Anyone in Phoenix want it 100 bucks and u have it.
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Oh and tested all electrical and have a new battery that's not why ABS light is enlightening me. But car works perfect again with proper axle in.
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Put the replacement in, obviously not the same axle and car works perfectly. No more trans shifting problems. Like new. But now I checked my new trans fluid, metal flake like red gold flake show car paint. How do I hold this place accountable for the damage done. Finding out this year after June 1995 prod date to end of 96 the axles are not the same and or interchangeable. Why don't these goons know that. What about the tranny damage caused by fighting mechanical and TCU ECU parts. So pissed about this. And I know Subies. I knew from the start wrong part but no way they could do that. I need them to be held accountable. How do I make that happen. Any clues?
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The axle I was given was not even close to the one I was given this time. Length was close when. I compared before installing. But there is movement and I didn't use a measuring device as maybe I should have. The one that broke was very thick then tapered down, and the part that OEM paints green wasn't there. Just boot then flange with no metal don't know the name of that piece length between. Just axle boot then part that slides over shaft of transaxel. Finding not much interchangeability on axles for the 96. Search on the site recommended above only shows 96 that works on 96. Other than suggestion of pounding speed sensor gear off for newer axle to work. Goin to put this clearly different axle in oh and a new front hub given to me almost free and see what happens.
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The general manager was who I spoke to and yes generally they keep track of every sales statistic. 17 isn't alot but that shows the reliability of Subaru parts and that not many break. But ok. ABS or wheel speed sensor. Could that have any bearing on the transmission and shifting and not engaging etc. ABS light comes on dash after driving a bit but has since owning the vehicle. Shouldn't a bad speed sensor throw a code if it has failed? Or is ABS light the only indicator. How can I disable the ABS temporarily to get a job and then worry about ABS.
