MWLoyale

What's the price per foot there?

I ended up finding some hose on amazon that was rated for fuel, pcv, and eec (which might be an abbreviation for emissions control?) https://www.amazon.com/Gates-27008-Fuel-Line-Hose/dp/B000CRDKVC

Thanks naru, I had that idea and thought it would work but wanted other opinions. I got the studs out and I'm off to town to get some blue loctite

The studs are in the same spot on both heads so if I flipped them, I would still have the same problem. But as you said no matter. Would I just use a rag over the jaws to save the threads?

I went to bolt my exhaust up and discovered the remanned driver side head has the studs in the incorrect holes. Is there any way i can remove these and put them in the correct holes?

Would transmission cooling hose be a better option?

I've tried looking it up and MOST people have stated heater hose is fine. Also the pcv hose is a 5/8 ID, correct?

I broke one of the brittle pcv hoses on my 1993 Loyale, what kind of hose can I use to replace it?

I'm in the process of reinstalling my engine which is an ea82 in a 1993 loyale. While turning the crank to screw in the flexplate bolts through the bellhousing I noticed a clicking noise from where the starter is supposed to mesh with the torque converter. The car is currently in neutral (I wouldn't think that has anything to do with it). Does anyone have any ideas on what that could be? The pinion gear looked fine when the engine was out and so did the converter ring gear.

I found reman cardone axles on summitracing for 37$ plus $10 core. It seems overwhelmingly cheap. I just wanted some opinions on the subject. https://www.summitracing.com/parts/aaz-60-7007/overview/year/1996/make/subaru/model/legacy/submodel/outback

Thanks a lot.

I got new transmission cooling lines because my old ones were cracked and rotten. I am a fool for not marking the lines before I removed them I know but can someone tell me which transmission line goes to which connection on the radiator?

Thanks everyone for your overwhelming advice, I called the shop and told them to not split the block. I plan on new rings and already have some adf reman heads along with timing belt and seals to put on.

EA82, 1993 loyale. I'm too far into it to ditch it.

I was driving home and my crank pulley fell off. I put it back on and I believe the timing was off because it ran like crap. When I parked it in the driveway I shut it off. I tried restarting it and it made a noise like the timing belt had skipped and sure enough when I got the timing covers off a belt was off its sprocket. I decided to replace the headgaskets and reseal the motor at this point because its at 150k and it showed signs of headgasket failure. As this is my first time doing a project this large, I got a little impatient and rounded off the last flexplate bolt. I attempted to drill it out but had no luck because the bolt extractor stuck in the bolt would not give at all. I also noticed the cylinders should probably be honed because the cross hatching wasn't visible which led me to the conclusion of worn piston rings, and with little experience on engines I figured I should leave honing to a professional. I apologize for not communicating effectively but technology really isn't my thing. I appreciate the help.

By the way when the engine failed, the crank pulley fell off

I took my block to the local carquest machine shop to remove a bolt in the flexplate. The foreman there told me he would need to split the crankcase and check the crankshaft and connecting rod bearings. Is this necessary or is he trying to get me to spend a little extra cash? I know every case is different but has anyone heard of these parts failing?

One of my valve guides is pushed down due to a stuck hla and/or carbon buildup on the exhaust valve. I want to replace all 8 HLAs because most of them did not pass the lifter test outlined in the Haynes manual. If anyone knows where I can get these without costing me an arm and a leg, please let me know. I've called and emailed Mizpah but got no response from either, which led me to rockauto.com or a oem dealer. but I'm not sure if I want to trust the aftermarket or pay out the wazoo for oem. Or if someone can direct me on how to rebuild my current HLAs I'm open to that as well

I'm replacing oil seals and headgaskets, among many other new parts. And after examining the HLAs and seeing some of them seized and the fact that one heads valves are not flush like the other head. Yes I think this is a rebuild, but I'm not here to determine what is and isn't a rebuild, I want my engine to run smoothly when I put it back in.

And as far as HLAs go, I'm going to replace all. Is melling a good brand? I found them on rockauto.com and they seem reputable.

Thanks guys, I guess I wasn't expecting to do a valve job but if I have it apart and if I want to do it right I'm willing to put in the extra efforts for a better finished product. Is it necessary to lap the valves?

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Hi, I am currently cleaning up my heads on my first rebuild and I have some questions. First of all my driver side valves aren't seated flush like the passenger side valves. Will this be an issue if I just put it all together as they are (do I need to replace the valves or seals)? Second, what's the best way to get the clean the carbon build-up? I've been using carb cleaner on a rag and it's only gotten me so far. I'll post pictures soon, thanks.