hush777

We just picked up a 97 impreza outback sport wagon that has 302,000 on it. With record that it is the original trans and engine. :) Hush Others that we have run from 175,000 86 sedan to 297,000 91 loyale

IF you are talking about an exhaust explosion rather than a back fire through the carb then the cause might be the anti-dieseling solenoid on the carb.... drivers side on the front corner. might check to see if you hear a click in it when the key is turned on. If not check the wire for voltage and then pull it and clean it. Might even be beter to clean the whole carb and put a kit in it. Hush

Welcome to the board. Just a thought here, About the wheel bearings. Chrysler had problems with their k-car series eating wheel bearings and axles. They did extensive testing and found out there was pitting in the bearing, and that it was cause by a lack of ground from the engine to the body. The system was using the axle bearing for the ground, causing arcing on the bearing. Might add an extra ground cable from the engine to the body. Hush

It does, Same filler hose feeds both. Just a thought based on your comment about the engine oil not dropping any. Other things it could be are the head to cam holder sealing area, (was leaking bad on the 86 I have now) and the rear main seal. To renew the cam holder seal is easier with the engine out, as the rocker arms are a pain to keep in place. Hush

Check to make sure that the differential oil is not going down and out through the seal on the side..... Have a 91 loyale wagon (p/b 4x4 with 294k on it) Hush

You can check the cable that is operated by the vacuum pods. It is located on the pass side of the trans and should move to the back and to the front, shifting a small lever on the side of the trans. If that is working then you might just have a bad sensor that is not lighting up when it shifts in. or maybe just a broken or disconnected wire to the sensor. Hush

It is located under the steering column behind the plastic covers. Hush

Sounds like you'll do good at it. Make sure that you put the new rubber grommets on the bolts and clean everything up good and you should have no problems. By the way the bolts have a sholder on them and will bottom out. That way they don't overstress the grommets. Hush

I believe that solenoid is located right next to the thermostat housing. should have a wire connector to it, and two vavuum lines. The a/c fuse is located right next to the a/c relay which is located behind the passengers strut tower. Should be a fuze sticking straight up in a holder. Hush

For all you people interested in this.... Bump Hush

Have posted the first side of the sheet as scans on a gallery. Here is the link. Check it. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/photos/showgallery.php?cat=582&ppuser=&page=1 Hush

Will have to post the rest in sections, but not right now. Been called out on an 8 hour one way run...... won't be back till tomorrow sometime. Hush

I'm gonna post a picture for you all to take a look at. If the quality is to low and you can't deal with it then I will try to get the sheet scanned this coming weekend. If the quality is ok then let me know and I'll finish posting all the rest of the pictures that I took and type in the instructions... Hush

It is a twin core radiator that we got 2 years ago. I have an extra radiator from a gl wagon that has the auto tran cooler part that I'm gonna throw in there to see if it makes any difference. Hush

Follow up: Without the thermostat the car runs at about 5 degrees less than with a aftermarket 165 Runs 10 degrees less than with the oem thermostat. Still gets to 230 before I get 2 miles up the mountain. (seven miles long) This is all at 83 degrees outside temp. Still looking for any other thoughts. Hush

Hello, Just a touch of back ground info. We got an 86 gl-10 wagon 4 years ago. During the summer after we got it, it started showing signs of running hot. Tried lots of things (some helped) to control the heat problem. Ran across this board and got lots of ideas and help here. Even read all of Paparoos posts on the cooling characteristics of the ea82(t). Got a two row radiator 2 years ago after the motor overheated on the highway to the point of the case bolts stripping out the threads. Got a used jap low mileage motor and put it in. Took the advise of someone else on the board and got a cooling reserve tank from a different car (pressurized with a cap) plumbed it into the system to add coolant capacity. Changed the water feed for the turbo to the drivers head. Resently did a total reseal of the engine (and tune up) including new thermostat. The engine still wants to climb up uncomfortable in temperature while climbing a hill that leads to work. Am running straight water at this point. Cut in a hood scoop on an extra hood. Channels air through the hood to a box and some sheet metal that directs it to go down across the turbo and out. Still runs hot. Have a direct read guage for the heat, even checked it with another one. It is reading correct. Someone stole the distrubutor and the maf out of this before we got in and they replaced it with one labled for an 86. Checked those and they are the correct ones.... Got a dealer thermostat. Did This and it didn't help. Was running a 165 Thermostat and it got upto 210+.... Changed to a dealer 185 and it still gets up to 210+ Check the vacuum to the egr at speed. Rechecked the timing and for vacuum leaks. Maybe pull the cooland bypass channel off of the back of the intake manifold and clean it. This intake is the same as was on the original, so I'm thinking that there has to be something wrong with it, or a component on it. Is there anything else that I'm missing?? This is really pissing me off. ADDITION.... Double checked the timing. Did a complete backflush on the cooling system then pulled the radiator out to test the flow. Both the radiator and the rest of the cooling system through the engine flow at a rate greater than my hose will put out.... >3gal/min. Changed the oxygen sensor. Did a test run up the mountain with a volt/ohm guage attached to the o2 sensor and it shows that the engine is running on the rich side during boost. Took the thermostat completely out of the system to test if that changes anything.... But ran out of daylight before I could run a test drive. I did work as a mechanic for about 6 years and was the one called upon in the shop when there was something that someone else couldn't figure out so I'm not new at this, just looking for new ideas. Thanks for whatever input you might give. Hush Thanks to all who put anythought into this one

Uhhh, Isn't that the wrong style of fuel filter for an injected Subaru?? Hush

I'll have to see if I can get my camera to co-operate in taking pictures of it.....Don't have access to a scanner at the house. If that doesn't work I'll have to get it scanned. But that wouldn't happen till maybe next weekend not this one. Hush

I don't know if it would be financialy reasonable if you were to try to go to an R12 system. But if you were to go to a r134 or equivilent system you could do it. I have some of the parts that you would need and also a sheet that was in an 86 sedan (should be the same) for the dealer to follow to install air conditioning in a car after it has left the factory. You would need a condenser, the fluid lines with the proper o-rings for the refridgerant you are using (r12, r134, etc...), the compressor, with the bracket to hold the compressor, receiver/dryer, different alternator pulley (2 groove), pulser assembly, and bracket, the idle control (ficd actuator) unless it is auto-trans and spfi, the a/c relay, the a/c button for the dash and then the evaporator and the wiring diagram, pulse amplifier. Seems like a lot a know but now would be the time to get it done. I don't need this sheet and you can have it, if you would like. I can't help with all of the part as this one was hit in the front with a deer, and the compressor would be to heavy to ship. Took all the rest out. You would have to find the lines, and would be best to get a new receiver/dryer, as they grab moisture pretty quick. Let me know if you want this sheet, even just to look at, and see what all needs to happen. pm or email Hush

Stick a volt/ohm meter on the battery and check your alt. output voltage. Mine was running like that and the needle was jumpy till it got up to around 3k rpm then it would run fine. Was a bad alt.... weak spark with only 10 volts coming out. Hush

I just checked and it is gone. They might have been camping in a no camping zone, hiking or did manage a way to get a broken vehicle moved. Hush

BE NICE!!!

It is sitting around mile marker 84 about half a mile from my house. Lowman, or just east of it that is...(12 miles towards stanley) Hush

Found a nice red wagon with ada county plates just down the road. Thought I might be able to help. Haven't seen anyone around in two days. If it is anyone here please let me know! Hush

Was just playing around with my 86 sedan all day tracking the light circuits, so I have a rough idea what you are looking at. Your headlight switch is on the dash and the dimmer switch is on the steering column Right? When you turn on the ignition it powers the two relays for the lights (locate just above and to the right of the fuze box) ____________ black- | | black- | | Black with red stripe- | | Feeds power to fuses 6 and 7 Black with white stripe-|___________| Gets Power from Red fusable link ___________ Black- | | Black- | | Black with white stripe -| |Gets Power from Red Link also Black with Yellow Stripe-|__________| Feeds power to fuse 8 These power the lights one fuse to the right light and one fuze to the left. then power returns through the dimmer switch to ground. On mine someone had wired one of the wires on a headlight to ground so I had headlights on when the key was turned on. Didn't need to turn on the switch, couldn't change from high to low, just had lows always. Check to see that there is no extra ground on the circuit. I have all the wiring color codes if you need them. Hush