hush777

Not inside the pan. You have to drop the exhaust and the drive shaft out and then take the rear housing off to get to the solenoid and the clutches. just did this on my outback sport. Not any where close to you though, sorry. Hush

The old lady was getting ready for work and the car started miss firing. So I took her down and then when I got back did some cheking. The plug for #1 cyl is not firing and I even took the wire off the coil and it didn't spark any to the grounds near by, even when I took a screwdriver and touch ground and came close to the coil tip. Bummer.... So shouldn't the coil also be out on the #2 cyl? as they are a pair right? Plug fires just fine on #2 cyl and car wants to die if I pull that plug wire off. Any profound thoughts all? Thanks Hush

Thanks everyone for the help. Got the new Maf and put it in and the car purrs. I did clean the injectors a bit while I was rebuilding the engine and added a bottle of lucas injector cleaner in with the new gas, so I think I got it all. Did a 35 mile test drive and the car and I are both happy. Check engine light is still on but it was always on before the car died. It was always showing the knock sensor in the codes so I may need to get another on. Will drive it for a couple day during the breakin time and then have autozone pull the codes for me. This engine has new everything and went back in the 97 Imp outback sport body. The body has about 363k on it and the only reason we did the rebuild was the keyway on the crack got messed up. This is a different crank, so that is not gonna happen this time. The engine had the 363k and was still going strong when I pulled it. Hush

disconnected the maf and it started and ran (not great). ran it for 20 minutes, connected the maf and it died after about 30 seconds and would not start up again. Diconnected the maf and it started back up, so I am heading to boise to grab one from barger matson ($35). Hush

At least not another one on the winter solstice. The car will try to start with the cts disconnected, but I think the signal is wrong and it isn't giving enough gas to start with the engine cold. It was trying to start. Am going to check the electrical to the fuel pump and see if I can get someway to check the pressure from the pump. Hush

Disconnected maf and got it to start up, reconnected the maf and it still was running, not the best but running. Then up and died (after 5 minutes idling) and won't start again. Cold and the eclipes going on so gonna try more tomorrow. Hush

Checked out the coil. All tested fine. Pulled the plug on the CTS (computer one) and it wouldn't even try to start. Plugged it back in and it once again will start go to 1k rpm then die out. Hush

Cleaned out the maf box and sensor in there, check engine light some times is on. Still no start. Gonna pull the battery cable and let it set for a bit to see if it will clear any codes out and then try again. I drained all the gas by pulling out the pump and siphoning the tank through the access. Pump sounds fine when I turn on the key. Hush

I rebuilt the engine in a 97 impreza outback sport. It had set for 2 years. Starting it was a bit of a pain but I did get it to start, then it would die. Drained the gas out of the tank and put fresh stuff in and it started and was running fine for 20 minutes. I was getting ready for a quick test drive and checked the power steering res. It was low so I was topping it off and the car died. Will start, get to 1k rpm then die out, will not pick up any when I try to give it gas. This has new plugs in it and a new fuel filter. I am in the middle of no where at the moment so shop equipment is hard to come by. (scanner, fuel pressure guage, etc...) Any Ideas or anyone have any similar problems? I am searching the new gen forum now. Hush

Another quick part here. With the engine out and battery out, no power to anything. And no fluid in the trans, should I be able to turn the rear drive shaft? It will turn about 5 degrees each way then stops. Just wondering it I goofed up on something on the inside and that is causing things to be slightly out of alignment and the front of the drive shaft is hitting the housing on the trans. Hush

Shaft was only out for a day so rust isn't the issue, but just in case I ran some emery cloth on it to eliminate any rough spots, still non sliding on smoothly. Once it starts to slide on I would think that alignment is proper so I don't think that is the issue either. Hush

I did check that, there is no set position for it. It will slide on about 1/2" on the grooves then stops. Hush

I pulled the rear housing and changed out the solenoid and gasket. Put it back together and can't seem to get the drive shaft to slide on the output shaft. Don't think I messed anything up in the repair and seems strange that I can't get the shaft to slide on. Everything looks centered and it came off pretty easy. I can get it to move on more with light taps from a hammer, but then I have to tap it back off also. Don't want to damage anything, thinking I may have to pull the back again to check stuff. What do you guys think? 97 impreza outback sport 2.2 auto Hush

Checked the wiring while cranking and all is fine. Trickled a little gas in till it caught and ran. Finished up hooking things up and got it ready to bring home for him. Test run it showed a little strangeness in the front end and I check..... Bad passenger side ball joint. More parts then we can bring it home. He is pretty excited about it, his first car. Hush

Finished rebuilding the engine for a 97 impreza outback sport. Getting ready to install it tomorrow but wanted to change out the duty solenoid c while I had the engine out and the exhaust stuff out of the way. Hush

He got this car because of head gasket problems. We went through and resealed everything. Got new timing belts and stuff too. GD the car wouldn't start, no gas in the carb. We may have just not let it crank long enough. Also went to put gas in the tank and some A$$ cut the filler hose so he had to replace that also. Hush

Sorry about that my bad, it is carbed. I will look when I get a chance for the control box. Thanks guys. Hush

I checked all those (4) relays and they are all working but none of the wires match the wire he says comes from the pump. Hush

I am helping my son and we have no power to the fuel pump. I want to check the relay for the pump but can't remember the location and my wiring diagrams are not much help. Thanks Hush

Check with Bow Wow at 345-6451 That is on emerald in boise and where I get all my parts from. Hush

That would be a 17mm flare end. As for the o-rings between the cam housing and the head, all of the aftermarket sets of gaskets I have bought have cheap ones, so I get the new ones from the dealer, they have a metal band in them that keeps them from collapsing like the aftermarket o-rings do. Part # for the o-rings is 13089aa010 about $10 for both here in Idaho. http://www.1stsubaru.com shows them for about 1.87 each but shipping would kill that is you weren't getting anything else. Hush

GD I have had to tear several of them apart to fix this problem. No money and lots of kids makes for necessity being the mother of innovation and repair not replace. Thanks for the word though. Hush