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hush777

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Everything posted by hush777

  1. There are people who have access to being able to run them without having to charge for it. Very nice people. I am not going to be making much for the sale of these and don't want to spend much on them. Hush
  2. I have a couple cars that I am putting together to sell and want to check the history of them, as well as be able to show the buyers what has happened with the cars over the years. I would greatly appreciate it if someone who has the availability could run a couple vins for me. 85 GL wagon Vin : jf2an53bxff410232 86 GL wagon Vin : jf1an43b9gb448087 Post here or email would work Thanks Hush
  3. I recently saw a 82-83 brat with a full dress 1100 goldwing in it.
  4. Suspect 7 and 8 should be for the air suspension I think. Suspect 9 is for the electric cooling fan. Suspect 1 and 2 should be connected to each other. these are the turbo sensors. Suspect 3 , check under the coil for a condensor that it might hook up to. 4 and 5 Have never been hooked up on any of mine. Hush P.S. Double check to make sure that you have a good battery to engine, engine to body, and battery to body ground or the computer freaks out and dumps lots of gas and it don't run for poop. I had a problem with that and managed to burn a half tank of gas in 14 miles......... (huge black smoke cloud out the back).
  5. Bopping around Boise at Harbor freight and what do I see...... A brat with a Goldwing in the back. Looks pretty loaded and was leaking some green fluids from under the engine..... I did warn the guy that It looked like he blew a heater hose from the position of the drips. Hush
  6. Still looking for any ideas. Have checked the maf tested fine. Thought maybe the fuel pressure regulator was leaking fuel into the intake but no. Still giving out lots of black smoke going down the road.. Hush
  7. One thing that I have found helps alot with some of the lesser known cars is to get a subscription to http://www.alldatadiy.com This allows you to pick the specific make and model and get access to all the TSB and wiring stuff. It is 24.95 for the first one and 14.95 for any additional ones so I try to keep at least one going. I have 14 going right now because of the number of different car that I end up working on. I am about the only mechanic in the whole area. Hush Ps they do list 86 xt (2wd) and 86 xt (4wd)
  8. Get some heavy guage wire 6 or 8 then run two pieces from the battery area into your guages. Disconnect the small wire that goes from the battery to the fusable links and hook one end up there and the other up to where the small one came off the battery. Don't start the car but turn the key and lights on. Look at the guage and it should show discharge. If not reverse the wires. Start the car and it shoud read just a bit above 0. Hush
  9. After changing out the dist it all seemed to be better. Still lacking a little power put not bad. The other day I had to go to Boise for some materials and went 65 miles towards it to borrow a truck, got the materials and stopped where my car was, son wanted to borrow car to run down and check on a jimmy that he might be partners in, seemed like he was having problems getting it to get up and go. Didn't think much about it he sometimes has problems with vehicles (operator malfunction) took the truck home unloaded the materials and headed back down for my car. Stayed the night and in the morning the car started but not well. Got out of there and looked in the rear view mirror and it looked like and old diesel. Lots of black smoke. When the turbo like was on and I was in the throttle a bit, after about 5 second it would pop and act like it wanted to die. Back out of the throttle and back in and it would be ok. Stopped for gas (it went through about a half take in 22 miles) and it wouldn't start. Looked at stuff pulled sensor wire off and still no start. Thought to myself that if it was running that rich then it at least needed more air. Pulled the tube from the PCV to in intake phlenum before the turbo and it ran. Limped it home and was still giving off a bit of black smoke. Gonna change the MAF with the one from the wifes car and see if that changes anything. Hush
  10. Still some more of the conversion I did. The first picture show the turbo inlet and outlet pipes that I seperated and swapped top to bottom to get the desired directions for the pipes. Hush
  11. A while back there was a long thread (original message board even) about all of the cooling characteristics of the EA82 series of engines. There was PapaRoo who did a lot of testing and checking on the coolant passages and routing. Seems that he found out that the passengers head starves a bit for cool water and therefore runs a bit hotter than the drivers head. He never found a solution to the problem. Knowing this and having experiences several head gasket failures on the passengers head and even a total catastrophic failure that caused the treads in case halves to stress out so much that the bolts holding the case together no longer worked, I figured that all of that heat can't really be good for the turbo, (and I hated having the change the hose under the turbo) so I figured that It might be better if the inlet water for the turbo came off of the other head instead. Much trial and error and bending finding the right hoses and all that and this is what I have come up with and am still running on my car. Pictures below. BTW trusting that Subaru did actually know what they were doing I put the old ladys together totally stock in the cooling department just to comare the two. Doesn't seem to be much different but her car usually is not the car that makes the long trips out of the mountains to the hotter areas of Idaho. I will post some more pictures later this evening. Hush
  12. 87 gl turbo with 178000 miles gets about 2500 to a quart 97 Impreza with 315,000 miles gets about 1250 to a quart, which I think is pretty good. We picked up the car from a lady who used it to deliver the mail and she was told the engine was knocking and needed a rear main seal so it wasn't worth putting the seal in. she drove it like that for at least 6 months using about a gallon a week, around 1000 mile a week. Rebuild another 87 turbo wagon and it gets around 4000 to the quart, the car has around 135,000. Hush
  13. The other car seemed really sluggish with my dist. in it. Changed back to the original one and all is back to normal. On my car I changed out the dist. to one from a SPFI and change the coil and ignitor to ones from a SPFI. Disconnected the o2 sensor and took it for a test drive down the road a mile or so. Seemed to be all better.... was able to do 5-6k on the tach. and due to the snow and slush 20 on the MPH guage. Will have to put some more gas in it and see how it does for a couple days. Hush
  14. I did change the wires only at the cap.... sorry about saying plugs I have several EGR solenoids to play with.... have taken to the nasty habit of moving them out of harms way (EGR and Purge) picture attached. Installed different coil and ignitor and seemed to be better but still ran rich and died when it got warmed up. Maybe the o2 sensor also On another note, had to do a drive in the other car (with my dist in it) seemed to be lacking in power..... I think I sprung a leak before the turbo (sounds like it at least) had me worried about the dist for a while there. Hush
  15. Disconnected the TPS Knock sensor Maf didn't change anything. Put the distributor from the other one in there, didn't change anything and mine runs hers just fine. So not a dist. problem...... rechecked fuel (got plenty...) did the plug swap like you said Skip and it didn't help (ran different not better or worse.) I have an old MPFI turbo intake and I will swap some stuff and see it that helps. Also have an extra coil/ignitor unit to try. Cleared the code and they just come back. Disconnecting the vacuum to the egr seems to help a bit. Will have to pull the egr and check to make sure it is ok. Hush
  16. Sorry for the late info. Throwing codes 33 VSS (Vehicle speed sensor) 34 EGR circuit 51 neutral switch? Hush
  17. New update on progress. Was able to get tune up stuff and put it on. (Cap, Rotor, Wire and NGK's) Started right up. Took off for a test drive. (live in the middle of nowhere) Down the road we go. LOTS of black smoke puffing out. Spits and sputters a bit. Figured that it just needed to clear its throat a bit (lots of starting fluids and stuff to try to get it started. Pop from under the hood and it rolls to a stop. Pop open the hood and low and behold I forgot to tighten the plenum between the turbo and the intake....... Looking to tools.....looking for tools..... no tools.... wire cutters? Yep that'll work. loosen the clamp and push the tube back down and then tighen the clamp....... wants to start barely... doesn't want to run though. O yeah! the rear tire is flat..... looking for jack... forget the jack it's in the other car and the spare is sitting on the ground where I pulled it out to get to the engine stuff......HMMMMM would my family think to come looking??? Na! They think I can handle anything. Start the car and limp it home...... Looking and checking things. runs but doesn't show any spark on the #2 cyl through a timing light... Getting dark will play some more tomorrow. Gonna pull the plug and check the compression in that cyl and for spark at that plug. I did change the plug wire with the same one off of the wifes care (also a 87 turbo wagon) didn't change anything and hers runs just fine with the other wire. Hush
  18. Update on problem First I want ot thank all who chimed in about this. Haven't had a chance to do much with it for a while and since my brother still had several other vehicles to use it wasn't a big deal. when down and let the car warm up then pulled all the plugs. 1 125 2 130 3 133 4 135 on a compression test. Car still wants to push big bubbles of air out through the radiator cap. Even when the car is just warming up it will push water out the overflow tank. This has had 4 different radiator caps on it (including the one on my car that has no cooling problems) so I don't think that it is just a weak cap. There is pressure building up quickly even before the thermostat opens. Have thought about the radiator being slow flowing but it doesn't make sense about the water out of the overflow even when it is cold. Are there any other places that I would have pressure build up from the engine to the coolant that I have missed. Still there is no signs of coolant in the cylinders, or any signs of coolant burning off at the plugs. ????? Hush
  19. My car (87 turbo wagon) started acting up about 2 months ago. I figured that it was the fuel filter. Changed that out and it seemed to get worse not better. Lately the symptoms have been getting much worse till a couple days ago when my son moved it and now it won't even start. Symptoms are when driving it seems to have a major hesitation around half throttle (just before the turbo light comes on), and also will hesitate at full throttle. Checked for spark (good at the coil and the #1 plug wire) pulled the line coming off the fuel filter and plenty of gas comes out. Pulled a plug and it is a little sooty but not bad. have shot starting fluid in the plug canister at the back of the air tube (film container looking thing at the back of the rubber between the air flow meter and the turbo. even tried shooting starting fluid right down the throttle body. There seems to be vacuum at the throttle body (sucks your hand down a bit) and pressure coming out of the turbo. So I am at a loss for what to do next. Check one of the injectors and am getting a pulse. Checked the screw at the rotor and cap and all that is fine. Any ideas??????? Hush P.S. Thanks Oops forgot to mention that the computer is showing no codes. Checked and cleaned the contact at the TPS but that didn't help either.
  20. Car is an 87 spfi wagon. My sister had problems with it. Lack of heat from the heater and then it was getting hot. Found that coolant was being pushed out the cap to the overflow bottle. New cap.... Sprung a small leak on one of the heater hoses. Fixed that. Changed the thermostat. Everything seemed ok She goes to work (35 mile drive) and says it got hot a couple times. I drove it back stopping to let it cool down and check the coolant.... seems to be going through some. Checking things out and found signs of a leak from the coolant area of the intake/engine mating surfaces. Pulled all the spark plugs. All look the same, and no water shoots out of any of the cylinders. Fixed the intake manifold gasket problem last nite. Seems to still be wanting to push the water out of the cap. Thinking that this is probably a head gasket issue but wanted to see what you all thought. Is there anything you can think of that I am missing? Is there any way to tell without a radiator pressurizer which cylinder?? Thanks Hush
  21. There are two coolant lines in that area. One is located just under the intake manifold. It is visible from the front if you look around the power steering pump and the other end of the line goes to just under the thermostat housing. The other line in that area is just behind the throttle body and hooks to a cross-over pipe about an inch in diameter. Hush
  22. I have not found a source for the front seal on one of these.... Did look at one that I had laying around and it looks like the bearing and seal are one. Hush P.s. If you find a source for the bearing and seals let me know.
  23. My son's brat had a similar problem. Voltage was fine during the day, dropped and fluxuated with the lights on. Would work really good if you pulled up on the clutch pedal... Turned out he forgot to hook up the negative side to the body ground and it would only work good if it could ground through the clutch cable, pulling up on the pedal caused the cable housing to flex just enough to make the ground connection. Check the ground..... Hush
  24. Checked all the bulbs, all good still freaks out with the bulbs out. Was going to throw another flasher in there but couldn't find it, tracked the click to the steering column. Hush
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