hush777

Check out this http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=32151 Located in Garden Valley Idaho. Kid is just waiting for someone to make an offer on it. Hush

Most of us who have done this conversion just go to the Junk yard and pick up all the non-air struts for a wagon then put them in. But if you want to get all the new stuff (but are missing some of it) then I can pull some off of an 86 wagon and sell you all the parts you are missing. Hush P.S. Or all the struts, but shipping on that would be a bit.

I did the heads on my turbo that way. Started with rougher emery then went to smoother. Checked for amount of warp left, and where the marks were from the emery cloth, to determine how much to take off. Hush

The cam carrier o-ring goes between the cam housing and the head and povides a positive path for the oil for the cam. The o-ring is about 3/4 of an inch and is steel reinforced. You may need to be persistant when talking to a dealer parts hand to make sure you get the right one, and not a cam holder o-ring..... Hush

The solenoid is located on the top side of the carb. It is a hex shaped tube that screws into the top, and has a wire going to it. The solenoid should have power when the key is turned on, (check at the connector near the back of the carb), and should make a click when you first turn the key on. I would also take some carb cleaner and spray the outside of the carb off, and then start the car and spray moderately into the throat of the carb keeping the engine rpm's up, to clean some of the deposits out of the inside. Hush

Any more info about the car would help. If it is carbed I would check the anti-diesel solenoid. As for spfi or mpfi. might still be a vacuum leak or a bad sensor. Hush

If I'm hearing you right, you might be able to use the whole auto trans and rear differential in the other car. Hush

Legacy777 has some info here. http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8080/subaru_manual_scans/ and here is a link to some of the info that I have. http://hush777.web1000.com/2_2overhaul.pdf Hush

I believe that that is the EGR solenoid that you mentioned. Usually the place where one of the vacuum lines hooks up breaks off and you have to re-route the hoses or find a new one (I need about 6 if you find any) so I usually just un-plug the connector. Hush

Yes it would involve at least changing the heads, or the whole engine. You could find an old tubo with a bad engine but good head, grab everthing like you were going to do the SPFI swap, then put the heads and intake stuff on a Carbbed short block. Would make it a mpfi (non turbo), but it would be more involved. Or grab a turbo and swap eveything over. Hush

Relays are under the dash, above the fuze box. Clipped into plastic holders. The one you want I believe is the one with 2 black W/ white stripes and a blue with black stripe and a blue with a white stripe. At least that is the wiring on the fuel injected cars. Also the power for the relay is from fuze 11 Hush P.S. you could pour some gas down through the pipe in top of the carb and fill up the bowl to run it for 20 seconds or so.

Got your email. Yes the filter can be removed without taking down the pump, but it is a pain that way. If things are that rusted I would say yes try to get it out without taking the pump down. The filter goes into a clip that looks like a C and the c points in a weird direction. You will have to feel the filter and the clip to know which way to push/pull to get the filter out. As for not cleaning, They usually are just replaced, but in a pinch you can take the old one out and blow through it backwards then tap in on something and blow again to get things so they will flow a little bit. As to where the fuel line hooks up. It goes to the drivers side of the carb. From the Carb going towards the area behind the drivers strut there are 4 lines. One of these is the fuel inlet line. Not sure if it is the biggest one there or not. There might be the brake booster line there. So either it is the biggest or the next size. Follow the lines and see where one of those hooks into a steel line (the other big one would go to the brake booster). You might be able to pull the line there and check for fuel. BTW when you get ready to pull the filter, use a pair or vise grips clamped on the line coming out of the tank to prevent getting a face full of gas. Hush

The fuel pump is held on with a bracket that is flat on the bottom. And the fuel filter clips on there also. Pull the big line going to the carb and see if there is fuel there. Hush

Here is a picture of an engine without the intake manifold and sorry that if its from the rear. But it should help you understand where the leak is coming from. The head gasket that is shown seems to be to far away from where you described so I'm not going to cover that one. The cam housing mating surface is just that, Where the cam shaft housing attaches to the head. This surface is machined and only uses a small o-ring for oil control and an anearobic sealing compound (ask at a parts house and they will know about it). This a little bit involved in fixing. http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8080/subaru_manual_scans/1980_Subaru_Manuals/EA82_-_Service_Manual_Part_1_of_2.pdf shows how to do the fix on that, and parts are usually available at least through a local NAPA store. The link also shows how to do the cam seals, crank seal, timing belts, and valve cover seals, which you might want to do while you are in there. Other things to think about are 1 How many miles on the timing belts right now (replacement recommended at 60k miles). 2 How long since the water pump was replaced.... Easier to do now than having to tear everything apart again to do later (usually around $40). 3 Is there any signs of leaking around the oil pump, or any TOD (Tick of death, or lifter noise). 4 How are the timing belt tensioners and idler, any play in them or nasty noises and they should be replaced. All of these things are easier while you are in there, and make the engine last longer and be more reliable. Hush

Some more information please. Is your car carbbed, or fuel injected. The fuel pump is located under the car right in front of the rear tire on the passengers side. There is a fuel filter there also, and one under the hood by the drivers strut tower. You should be able to pull a fuel line on the carb or near the injector and see if you have fuel there. Also check your fuzes, and also you may have to check your fuel pump relay. Hush

I put page numbers on the manual. Also if anyone can not access the manual online please pm me and we can set things up to get you a copy. Hush

Need to move the new gl-10 that we got about 30 miles. Engine has a bad sound in it. Can this be pulled with a tow strap for that distance?? Hush

Here is a link to the Conversion manual. http://hush777.web1000.com/Conversion%20Manual.zip Thanks to Snowman for putting this all together for us. Also a link to the article in the USRM. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/article.php?a=61 Hush

Here is a link to the Conversion manual. http://hush777.web1000.com/Conversion%20Manual.zip Thanks to Snowman for putting this all together for us. Also a link to the article in the USRM. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/article.php?a=61 Hush

I have collected all the parts and pieces to do the conversion on a 86 sedan but not sure that I'm gonna do it as the car is for my niece and she won't care either way..... And I just got a car with a decent carb on it for the car.... And a 85 gl-10 turbo wagon:brow: I like the SPFI system, have several cars with them on it. Hush

Snowman did a write-up about the Carb to SPFI conversion, I made it into a PDF file for the USRM, and probably will be posting it there in the next week or so. It includes everything that you need/need to know about doing the conversion. Hush

Just no turbo short block around right now.... Hush

Turbo blocks are (I think) 7.5 : 1 compression and I don't have an extra around or the resources to redo the one in the wagon right now. Carb blocks and also the rare mpfi non-turbo blocks are 9.0 : 1 so I could just change the heads out from the turbo engine and use the short block from the carb engine. That high of compression in a turbo situation will result in lots of detonation and possible engine damage... melted/cracked pistons... blown head gaskets from to much pressure..... Hush

Sorry about that I didn't realize that you were refering to the original pictures.... That one is an 86 carbed sedan with a d/r 5 speed and a earl shibe (orange ish red) paint job..... The hood is not original (was blue) and had to do some other body work and fake it painting on it... The hood is close to imperial red.... Hush

Just thinking about this. I have an 86 carbed wagon that is not worth fixing, but the engine/trans (d/r) are good. Also have an 85 turbo wagon with a bad bearing (so the guy says). Am thinking, to eliminate the compression issue and also give my old lady a 4x4auto which she wants (but has a lead foot so skip the turbo power) of putting the carbed block in place of the turbo block and redo the exhaust to what would be on a non turbo wagon...... Will the computer handle running things ok without the turbo?? Just in MPFI mode? Hush