L5wolvesf

Sooo, I ran an errand this AM with the car several stops and voila no warning lights come on. They were on yesterday I saw them. When the next scheduled service comes up she will have them check it further. Unless it happens again. Thank you for all the input - much appreciated.

Thanks for responding. I'll check the brake fluid etc. We have a major road project happening here, on the road she has to drive to work, so the roads have been rough but not potholed. The 3 lights just come on when she starts up and stay on.

Hi Guys, My gf has a 2015 Forester and asked about why 3 warning lights would come on at the same time without any symptoms of a problem. The 3 lights are: ABS warning, Hill Assist warning and Traction warning (at least that is what we think the last one is). The owner's manual is essentially a paper weight on this. A google search found the following about the interconnection with those 3 warning lights and the brake light switch. http://www.subaruxvforum.com/forum/problems-maintenance-warranty/131786-abs-light-hill-assist-light-loss-traction-lights-dash-come.html But, the brake lights work. So I'm seeking some input here. Thank you in advance.

There are gearing/speed/etc calculators online to help figure out some of it. First you'll need to know what diff gears (front or rear) are available for your car - then run the numbers. A slight tire size adjustment might work in combo with gearing. Same would go for the trans gearing. It might be you run a lower gear and have to up shift. There might be a bit of a trade off between getting the RPMs you want vs which gear you accelerate out with. You might make one better but the other off a bit. Personally, I wouldn't sacrifice any handling (big stagger or tire changes). What are your times vs. the fast qualifiers?

I've had problems with the site so I haven't followed what all came of the ECU change/mods. I'm guessing it isn't affordable or doable. Given that . . . what about the gearing? Is there a gearing change (either in the diff or trans that will put you where you need to be and . . . without messing you up elsewhere on the track?

How much compression are you running in the car?

I'm, obviously, no Subaru computer expert but I noticed you mentioned the BRZ above. So my thought here is - could he swap in a BRZ ECU onto his car and tune from there?

I agree that changing the tire size would do that, but there would be other consequences. Raising the car an inch would affect the handling; that would be a significant raise in the CG. Also, we don’t know if or how much stagger he runs. We also don’t know what class he runs in so the level of prep allowed is unknown. I would guess it is a “mini-stock” type class and in some places mini-stock runs a spec tire (size and/or compound). A taller tire would also affect his acceleration which is important on starts and restarts.

Toyota Pickups and 4Runners are that way. When you fill them put the vehicle on an incline and you're good.

And I’m back after doing some research here and discussing it with a local-ish machine shop. Luckily one of the guys there is a “Subaru nut” and knows a lot about their engines. I also quizzed the owner on a couple items as a bit of a test and he was quite sharp. But first, I did confirm I have the 2.5 – double humps on the timing covers. In regard to the blown head gasket he asked if it had blown coolant into the crankcase. If there was coolant in the oil he agreed bearings can be an issue and the result could be doing the whole motor. But in my case no coolant in the oil so the bearings, while having a lot of miles – but not knocking, should be OK. He did suggest putting a gauge on it to see what kind of oil pressure I am getting. So, next question, is there an easily accessible port I hook a gauge to, for a pressure reading? I read here, and he also mentioned, the small oil pump the 2.5 comes with is a problem. Moving up to a bigger one was his thought too. He suggested if Melling, DNJ or Sealed Power make them for the 2.5 that would be his choice. So, last question (for now) – there seems to be a choice of a 10mm or 11mm pump, is the 11 worth going to on a basically stock engine or is the 10mm the better choice? He said having them go through the engine would be a waste of their time and my money. So my plan, once I confirm there is good pressure now, is to do the heads and related items. It will be $300 to completely do both heads with shave. Thanks guys.

Weird it doesn't seem to work as I copied it. This "should" work. www.car-part.com

http://car-part.com/

I've read your responses regarding the 2.5 and I'm going to read/research further on that. I'll get back on here regarding that. One question: why not just rebuild the existing 2.5? It did 184k (ish) and others have turned alot and lots of miles. Thank you

Thank you for the answer and additional input.

184k and thanks for the input