ajslacker

If anybody is interested I did fix it. I bought an auto CC computer off of ebay and plugged it up. If you just clip one of the 4 wires that goes into the auto relay (black and red wire) it works. The only thing is it of course doesn't disengage when you hit the clutch, but personally I only use it on long trips so I'm not to worried about it. Not sure if my manual computer was bad or If I wired it up wrong, but in my opinion it's easier just to use the computer that matches the factory harness of your car.

They are different units but with a little bit of wire de-pinning and re-pinning you can get them to work with each other as long as you have the correct relays. Which I do.

I've got a cruise control question for anybody that can help. I've got a 90 Legacy that I manual swapped last year and am now installing cruise control. Everything is hooked up per the directions on surrealmirage. My problem is that when I hit the cruise button the relays and orange cruise light will turn on but when i let go both instantly turn off. Cruise control doesn't work at all yet. Both relays are clicking including the re-pinned clutch switch. Brake lamp switch is a brand new 4 pin. Not sure what I did wrong. Any help appreciated.

Are you talking about these? If you are there are about 30 left in the Subaru warehouse. PN: 723811230 They're about 20 bucks a pop. The Subaru emblem comes off because they're old though, so you'll have to re-glue.

I'm pretty sure my parts car GL still has the brake booster so I can try to swap the booster and the master cylinder and see if that works. If not I'll go from there.

Rock Auto doesn't have a new brake booster in stock. I do have an 89 GL 5spd D/R parts car. Will the brake booster from that work? They're showing up as different part numbers but if I just have to make a longer vacuum line or bend the brake lines a little bit it doesn't bother me.

I have a 1985 Subaru Brat 3-speed automatic. My brakes were trash and squealed really bad so I replaced the pads and rotors and had to replace the calipers too because the Piston wouldn't go back in. Got those installed and went to bleed the brakes and the pedal goes straight to the floor. It doesn't build any pressure at all. I attempted to bleed the brakes anyway but like I said it doesn't build pressure and if you pump in a bunch of times in a hole to the floor and open the bleeder valve brake fluid just dribbles out. Figured I somehow messed up the brake master cylinder so I got a new one and installed it and no change at all. I bled the master cylinder and the calipers multiple times as well and it still just dribbles out. I know brake booster uses vacuum, so I think it has something to do with that because, when I hit the brake pedal air gets sucked into the carburetor. Also when the vehicle is running if I hit the brake it stutters and almost dies. I don't see any drips or anything from the brake lines, calipers, or MC. Any ideas what could be wrong? Do I need a new brake booster? I'm honestly kind of stumped.

I bypassed the fuel pump control unit by putting a wire with two little connectors on it between the blue and red wire and the large black wire. I'm assuming it's the 12 volt wire. it does stay on for the ignition but that's all I wanted this is perfect thank you to all that helped.

Just in case anyone is having the same problem I did what Gloyale said jumping the wires for the fuel pump control unit and it didn't work. But I did notice on my fuel pump it's a blue and red wire not a blue and black one and it worked when I did blue and red to the main 12 volt black wire. it might be different for different vehicles but for my 85 brat it was the blue and red wire and the larger black wire the 12 volt one I just put a tiny little wire and jump the two in the connector.

If I bypass it and it does actually work then I will probably put one of those aftermarket ones that you can wire in and do that but either way I need to figure out which wires are used to bypass it so I can test it in the first place. So I will research as much as possible to figure out which wires are which.

My windshield used to leak before I got it resealed. I believe it leaked water on to the FPCU. I did the old trick of putting it in rice and it dried out. I thought it worked after that but I guess there is know way of knowing. So if anyone knows which wires to splice into to bypass it, I will do that tomorrow.

Just to clarify when I had it wired to the ignition coil I can hear it clicking when it was on. That's why I know it's not on now.

I've been searching around the Forum for about a week trying to figure out my problem and I can't so I'm making a post for it. I have a 1985 Subaru Brat 3 speed automatic. I've been working on this thing for a year now and I have everything cleaned up I just got new brakes for it all I need to do is fix this fuel issue and it will be roadworthy. So, I have a Spectra fuel pump that I got off of RockAuto, I actually have two. I was able to drive it around some when I spliced into the fuel pump wires bringing the positive up to the ignition coil and grounding it on the chassis. but the wire was extremely long and just hanging down and if I hit a bump or turned to hard the car would cut off because it wasn't getting fuel anymore. So I got rid of that and I spliced again back into the stock wires. So basically I'm back at square one. So my question is what could be causing it not to come on? I know it's not coming on because the Spectra fuel pump makes a clicking noise while it's working. Is there fuel pump relay somewhere? Or is there a fuel pump fuse somewhere? I'm just really fed up because I've been stuck on the same issue for 6 months. Any advice or wiring diagrams or anything would be helpful. Sorry for the long post Thanks.

Um not sure kinda both I guess.

after I tested it I put the starter back in and plugged it back up and it started right up so I know the wiring is bad somewhere but I'm not going any farther than my neighborhood for right now so I'll just leave it for now. All I did was wiggle the massive pigtail going into the cabin and it started so, for now it's all good until I hit a bump and then it doesn't start the next time LOL.

So I did what you said I just went ahead and cut the wire that was going to the fan and the switch that I made and connected the starter to that and when I flip the switch the starter spins and pushes the gear out. So I assume that means that the wire that goes into the cabin is messed up somewhere.

I wired up my fans to a switch so its possible I messed up the wire somehow while I was running the fan wires into the cabin. Even though I was being super careful. I'll fiddle with it tonight some more.

My battery cables are relatively new I think only a year old, and I don't think I mentioned it but my dash lights do come on and the chiming for the keys in ignition still works it just won't spin the motor. Alas I will try all these tricks when I get off work today we'll see how it goes.

I know it has nothing to do with it. I was just saying that's why it sat for two weeks. I'm just trying to figure out why my starter isn't even trying to turn at all.

I have an 85 Brat 3AT. I just got my distributor back after 2 weeks, from Philbin industries, where it got rebuilt. I put it back in the car and went to start it and nothing. There is a clicking noise inside the cabin when I turn the key but nothing from the starter itself. It did work before I pulled the distributor to be sent off and rebuilt. I pulled the starter and tested it with a battery and jumper cables and it pushes out and retracts, and spins perfectly fine. I'm assuming it's something wire related in the car. Any ideas??

Ok. Ya I used a random on 6mm crescent wrench I found. I work at a Subaru dealership so I should be able to find a valve adjustment tool. Thanks for the help y'all.

Awesome that's great! When I do the valve clearance for the hydraulic valves, after I get to the zero point how much farther do I turn the adjustment bolt? I've seen everything from one and a half to 1/8 of a turn

Alright will do.

@el_freddo Sorry I forgot to follow the topic. Honestly Bent valve is just a guess I have not pulled the head yet but I plan to this weekend. I did adjust the valve clearance and I'm 99% sure I did it correctly but it still taps. I did run it for about a minute and a half with tapping valve so I'm assuming I bent it. I thought the tapping was a tool rattling around. I'm dumb. ???? @GD Lovely. Any chance the ea82 valves are the same size?? I assume they're not but it's worth a try. If not I'll just try something custom

I have a bent valve in an 85 Brat A/T. I want to replace it but I can't find any place that specifically has the Large valve. Rock Auto says it has it but i looked and the 82 Brat in their catalog uses the same valve part number. And correct me if I'm wrong but pre 84 had smaller valves... I just don't want to buy it pull the head and find out its the wrong one.