Tony Cortado

Hey folks. Got a new sound among all the old ones (lifter tick, low idle, etc.). I think a pulley bearing is going out, but I've never experienced it before. Would you have a listen to the YouTube post and let me know what you think? Is there a way to determine which pulley it is without taking the belts off? Thanks!

Just searched Chula Vista, closest to the border. They have a GL: SUBARU GL 1985 2/6/2018 Section: RIMP Row: L Space: 4 Color: Silver

You don't know anyone in California that could find one at a junkyard and somehow ship it to you? I might be heading to get a fuel tank for my 93 Loyale from a place called LKQ pick a part, but the particular yard near me doesn't have a GL, just a Loyale. You can easily search their inventory for cars in certain areas (especially southern california), and maybe a friend can pull it and send it? https://www.lkqpickyourpart.com/

When I bought my Loyale for $500, the guy said he wanted to buy it back for the same price or more (depending on repairs I did) when he returned to Anchorage. That became the reason I kept the car. During my road trip south, there were so many gawkers, some of them soobie "enthusiasts" that had never seen a Loyale, and others that loved seeing this car still on the road. When in national parks, there were no other cars like her; foreigners loved taking photos with the ol rust bucket, bison in the background. Gassing up was particularly fun - in the north, there are so many other Subarus, people gassed up next to me just to ask about the car. I guess being weighed down with all of my belongings, having a lot of body rust, and a collapsing roof box was a good ice breaker. We took the ferry from Hanes to Skagway --- my Loyale was by far the oldest and probably "ugliest car" on the ferry. The cancerous rust will slowly overtake it, but at least I'll have this one for parts for the next Loyale I buy : )

Time to do the dreaded fuel tank replacement on my Loyale. Mine is shwasted from winter time road salt in Anchorage. Now in Southern California, it's not been easy finding a Loyale in a pick-a-part, but I did find an 88 GL. The tank is $52. Are these tanks interchangeable? I noticed the part numbers from different auto parts online are, "SU1A" for a GL and "SU1B" for a Loyale, so it seems like they're different.... But with so many other parts that are the same, could I fit a GL fuel tank in my Loyale?

Well, I feel foolish. I replaced the driver side bearings. All the noise is gone. Left turn and right turn. I always thought worn bearings only make the noise when its particular side is under stress, but I guess they can make noise whenever the steering wheel is turned, regardless of direction. The axle was still a little loose getting through the hub and bearings, but it wasn't nearly as loose as with the old bearings. I need to buy one of those gear pullers! I used a block of wood with a dry towel (to keep wood particles out of the bearings) to bang the bearings in, as well as the 36mm axle nut socket, and hammered the hell out of it!

Hey guys, it's me again Road trip was successful from Alaska to Southern California. Since I bought her in April, I've already put on 15,000 miles, including the road trip, passing the 250k mark. I've got to tackle an issue I've had over the summer to finally quiet down my front end. In May, I replaced both front cv joints, getting a new but not OEM part from Carquest/Advance auto (https://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/carquest-new-cv-axle-shaft-assembly-ncv66011/20870575-P?). When I took apart the knuckle assembly, I remember having to hammer out the original axle shaft to get it freed. When I put in the new parts, they fit in loosely, but I pulled them through using the axle nut as leverage. The car sounded great after that, the axles and hubs were quiet. After a while, both sides started humming (like white noise) on turns, growing subtly louder as days, weeks, and months passed. I finally replaced the bearings on the passenger side at the suggestion of this forum. It didn't stop the humming, so I got lazy and didn't replace the bearings on the driver side. I did make sure the axle nut was at the proper torque. I researched on here some more, and read that when replacing the CV axles, one should replace the spring washers and cone washers. I found those parts OEM on ebay and replaced them. No change in the hum during turns. Again using this forum, I found that overtightening, loosening, overtightening, loosening and overtightning once again on the axle nut is one way to make sure everything is snug; that the bearings are self-torque-something-or-other, so over tightening doesn't burden them. The humming lessened when I did this, but never went away completely. During the road trip, both axle nuts backed off a tad, and were stopped by the cotter pins. I did the overtightening/loosening/etc bit three times during that 5k miles, and finally the nut seems to stay in place. I am still getting hums/white noise on both, but it's a bit louder on the driver side. I checked all four wheels for play, and the driver side had probably 1/8 to 1/4 inch of play up/down and left/right. The other three are fine. I took apart the driver side assembly to the rotor, and when I checked the spindle, it's just loose. I can feel the play in the hub, and when I push it, it can easily be moved out of the knuckle. According to installation instructions, the axle shaft should be pressed into the hub using one of those do-dads. I hate replacing the bearings, but I will probably go ahead and do that on the driver side just for good measure - but I doubt that it'll solve the problem since it is still happening on the passenger side. www.youtube.com/watch?v=ckAnENBIwBo Any ideas on how to quiet down my front end? Thanks again for all your input!

Just wanted to add a note, that the mechanic showed me Key On Engine Off injector spraying continuously.

I have (what I think is) a lifter tick in mine. Usually, it's only with the first start up of the day, but on colder days it can be a little more often. It only lasts between 30 seconds and 2 minutes, or until I start driving it and the oil gets moved around. Starting and restarting sometimes works as well, or revving up the engine a couple times. No clattering sounds though; just a repetitious tick.

The evidence I saw was a sort of dry, white, chalky, almost salt-like residue under one of the hoses on top of the block, which almost immediately evaporates because of engine heat.

I have had 3 places coolant goes: 1.) on top of the block, collecting in the wells of the passenger side spark plugs 2.) a little burning up I can see in the exhaust, also no huge amounts of white smoke (none of that ugly mayo thank goodness) 3.) a tiny pinhole leak in my radiator, driver's side, near one of the large hoses. It doesn't always leak, usually only while driving. When it does, it goes directly on to the road while moving Good luck!

Happened to me just now! I love all the collective smarts of this forum! The SAWZALL was my next choice

Final Analysis: Fuel injector was the culprit. Went to a junkyard two hours away and found one, brought it back to the mechanic and bibbity bam, started right up after installation. Some notes about what I didn't notice and should have: Fuel smell was stronger than "normal" -- meaning, the known hole in the gas tank masked my ability to think the fuel smell could have been elsewhere (as well) Compression -- instead of normal compression, when we did the thumb test, fuel pushed the thumb and sprayed everywhere Plugs -- they were definitely soaked with fuel when I took them out for inspection Fuel fumes / drips -- coming from the exhaust, which was pointed out to me by the mechanic (and could have become a disaster if I smoked cigarettes!) Oil / Dipstick -- I had just gotten an oil change some 150 miles before. The mechanic showed me that fuel has leaked into the oil, so I had to change the oil again. Made it to my destination finally, 4200 miles, crossing the 250,000 mile mark! Thanks for all of the input, guys!

I had a problem where the drivers side auto belt wouldn't reach its final destination, causing the motor near the backseat floor board to work overtime. It killed the battery because it kept trying to move when the car was off, plus the motor started smelling burned up. I took apart the trim, disconnected the motor and sensor, and manually pushed the shoulder belt clip in its position. Now I just clip in and out when I get in the car. I'd like to fix it ... someday ... or maybe I'll get a GL with a moonroof....

After reading up a little more, I'm wondering what would have caused this injector to get "stuck" open... debris from a new fuel filter? Maybe a shorted wire on the injector itself? Hopefully with a new (or, another from a junker) injector the problem will be solved.

Sorry for the double post. Bad service area and stupid smart phone :-)

At the shop, the mechanic dudes went through all the steps including the timing, timing belts, etc. Fuel injector stuck open, thus continuously flooding the engine. It had smelled a little rich here and there, but I just attributed that to the hole in the tank. Apparently a lot of fumes even in the exhaust system, but again i thought it was the gas tank So, now I'm on the hunt for this part, which is unreasonably hard to find! Thanks for all of the replies! This was the hardest of all to diagnose, and all the replies on here taught me a lot!

I'm not sure where these three marks are. Looking at the illustrations in a Haynes manual, I see there should be some dots to line up. Is that what you're talking about?

I think I'm leaning to some sort of timing belt failure. Both are intact, no debris, no oil or other residue inside, but I was only able to take off the outer cover for both driver and passenger side. Still *looks* like a healthy belt, but whadda I know, I just play the trombone. What is the possibility of a belt actually jumping a tooth or two? The pass side timing belt pulley does rotate but doesn't wiggle, so I think that's good. The dist rotor rotates, i justjl checked the screw and it's solid, no residue or chunks inside the distributor, cables about 6 months old, including the coil wire. Last refueling was approx 90 miles ago. I saw some threads about codes on here, so I'll check that out. Can i still check codes when it's not starting?

Hey everyone! On my slow wonderful journey from Alaska to Arizona! I've had virtually zero issues for the last 3000+ miles of the road trip in my trusty rusty Loyale 5 speed. Just east of Salt Lake, Utah I'm stranded on the trip, luckily close enough to a friend's place, I have a car to borrow for a few days. Driving on the highway, the engine shut off without warning. No sputtering, no backfire. All the dash electronics/lights stayed on. Pulled off to a safe spot, and the car won't start. It turns and turns, without even an instance of firing/ignition. AAA'd it to the nearest promising place for a diagnostic, but had two days to wait. So I tried to diagnose it myself. Fuel pump buzzes like normal while key is turned to on position. Even detached the fuel filter (exit) and turned the key, definitely has pressure ;-) The plugs were old so I decided to replace them. The new ones spark kind of yellowish when grounded and after installation, a few good cranks of the engine, they come out smelling like fuel. Also some fuel smell from the exhaust when I really crank the engine a few times. Ignition coil measures good. Alternator is 2 months old. Battery is 1 week old and charged. No blockage in air flow, even held open the flap to ensure air was getting in. Did a thumb compression test on one of the plug holes, got sprayed. Distributor cap and wires in good shape. Serpentine belt good. Fluids good. Newish air filter. Took off the outer covers and checked both timing belts. Teeth look good, though the belt is about 10k past its due date. As a side note, I have a rusty hole in my fuel tank that's been there since long before I bought this car (in April), just above the hoses at the passenger rear wheel well. Can't full much past 10 gallons. Have been using heet every now and again to remove and potential water issues. Since there's fuel pressure after the fuel filter, I don't think this is an issue. I can not figure this out. There's fuel, air, spark, and compression. What am I missing?

Hey guys! Bringing up an old thread here. Same problem, though I don't see where the coolant is coming from, and it's only intermittent leaking. Both passenger side spark plugs are covered in a little green lake of goodness, and it's pretty thick like it's been there a while. Seeing the oil deposits everywhere, I think it's probably a head gasket leaking externally. I don't see milky oil, there is a little whitish exhaust sometimes, especially when cold out. On longer drives, I can smell the burned antifreeze when I exit the car, and there is sometimes antifreeze steam -- again, on colder days and longer drives it's more evident. I can't find the source of this antifreeze. See pics below. What do you guys think?

[Edited my post because I found the correct thread for my similar question]

Wowzer. I got some new rotors and calipers to fix the front end brake drag -- comparing the rotors old and new, I see a huge difference. The new rotors really clean up the driving, so much, I'm going to go ahead and return the calipers. When I did the bearings, I did replace the seals as well. Photos soon! in 18 days I'll embark on a 3600+ mile road trip from Alaska to Southern California! Hoping my Loyale with 235k miles will make it

Got the bearing replaced, thank goodness for friends in high places, I was able to use bigger beefier hammers and c-clamps, and I got some silicon lube for the caliper rod. The squeaky sound I recorded in the original post is gone, but the brake drag sound still exists on either side when I turn. Once I'm back from a short road trip, assuming the brakes don't catch fire , I'll try to figure out why that is happening. Thanks, everyone for your responses!