kennycoulter

ANY IDEAS? I only replaced the parts with regular oem stuff. For the 2003 sedan, I really wanted to upgrade stuff. I have only replaced the shocks with original Sachs shocks/struts, but I have bad bushings or something that makes a knock every once in a while. Are there better bushings or control arms that are recommended?

I will have to find the stuff again. I have moved since then, and some things are packed away.

I took all of my stuff out to put in a new stereo. I still have all of my old stuff, if you would need reference pictures. if needed, message me, and I can send in emails, as the pictures are too large to upload here.

This is awesome. I did not see this one before. Hopefully, I can fix this over the weekend, for good.

are the bushings a known problem? I have a 2003 outback sedan. I hear a clunk every now and then on a slow turn or sometimes angle change (hilly area). I have replaced all of the struts and shocks with new OE, and the ball joints have already been done.

I do not believe that my 1999 has had the cluster swapped, but I am having similar problems... I will try the trans code flashing soon..... 1999 OBW limited, the speedo goes in and out, cruise control will still work.... when turning cruise control on, it will sometimes jump the speedo to work. I have already done the extra little ground wire on the speedo circuit board. I THINK that it already had the problem prior to me swapping a new transmission (I never drove it before swapping the trans). of course, with the speedo not working, the miles do not show on the odo or trip correctly. Just yesterday, I had it back out and put some dielectric grease on the pins from the circuit board to the speedo as the ones in the straight line didn't seem to have a tight grip..... I accidentally bumped the parking light button and the lights were on for 8 hours, so I have to charge and wait to see if that helped anything.

I asked similar questions on the facebook page. My car is later though (1999). A lot of people were suggesting the windshield seal or rust holes in the firewall. would those apply to you? I am still trying to find my own leak.

cool link

I didn't know that you were that close.....

ummmm...... I am 20 minutes from you. I have a blown headgasket ez30 from a 2003 WITH gasket kit (Subaru headgaskets). I was looking to sell the engine for the price of the gasket kit. I also have new headbolts, if I could just recoupe the cost. get in touch with me.

Correct. Thank you. I only mistakingly left off the other component words because I haven't been sleeping much. Where can you shoot the grease into them? From the top side, or from the bottom side only? need to disassemble to see the bearing?

I just replaced all balljoints, bearings, tie rod ends, and one inner tie rod. I didn't do the struts this time around, as they didn't seem overly bad like my 03 sedan. I will hopefully check out all of the suggestions within the week.,

I don't know if this is too far back or not. This is an old picture. I figured that it was a ground but I couldn't find where it went.

y'know...... when I was installing the new transmission on this thing, I remember seeing a connector that was dangling that I couldn't figure out. I will see if I can find the picture again and post it up.

I tried searching, I am sorry if this is something common. I do not have whining associated with low p.s. fluid, I am not seeing any leaks, the reservoir seems fine. The steering is pretty stiff on my 1999 Legacy Outback Wagon. I had the vehicle down for a long time while replacing a lot of parts. I don't really remember exactly how the steering felt prior to the new parts, but I knew it was somewhat stiff (NOT as bad as a completely bad p.s. rack or pump, and you just start driving "manually"). my other cars are newer (2003 legacy sedan, 2013 fusion), so they definitely have lighter and more comfortable steering feel. Is the stiff steering the start of something going bad? Is it just the nature of this particular vehicle?

Yes, this is on a legacy. This is some of the best news that I have heard in a long time. It seems like it is pot metal, but I will see if I can weld it. I did not find a difference in either side. I still have the hubs and tone rings OFF and OUT of the assembled spindles (I have already installed the new bearings, ball joints, and seals).

I finally got everything on the suspension apart and removed, and starting to go back together........ problem is: the bearings were so stuck on the hub, that while pressing out, the bearings separated, shot out, and broke off a section of the ABS "tone ring". I am looking at Rockauto, but I am not seeing a picture of it. They have something called a speed wheel sensor reluctor. Subaru dealership wants 137, subarupartwholesale wants 97. Would anyone happen to have a used one that they could ship to me, hopefully close so I can get the car back together?

sounds similar to motorcycle chain wax. maybe can get that cheaper than amsoil?

I finally have both spindles removed, and found the fuel filler shut off switch (I thought it was a type of purge valve). Waiting on the switch to come in, and will carefully have to drill out a few bolts on the spindles before I am ready to throw anything back together...... I am still wondering if I really should do anything with the engine (timing or HGs).

I finally got things apart, and have the spindle off. I will have to drill out and repair quite a few bolts, but despite that, things are okay.... I did not and never do have good luck with using a torch....maybe I never heat it long enough? It discolored the metal, but I never made it red hot. WHAT is the sensor on the top of the fuel filler neck's name? I assume it is a sort of purge to reroute vapor to the charcoal can...I had everything ordered, but with all of that stuff being rusty, THAT was also shot.

I have a pickle fork, but I will have to get the broken bolts out of the knuckle first. I use a long pry bar between the knuckle and arm to separate the ball joint, usually, and USUALLY I am able to just tap the side of the knuckle or arm with a hammer and it will pop out. If I can get THAT out, then I will be on good fighting ground, and be able to cut everything else out. I have typical tools plus a press: NO lift. I will finally have some time to get back to it tonight, and a couple of hours between Saturday and Sunday.....Hopefully I can get somewhere with it and not lose motivation again.

So far, everything on the suspension is too rusty and breaking. I am wondering if I am wasting my time, thinking that taking the control arm and spindle off together, MAY allow me to cut and drill all of the old broken bolts out. I have read and saved the info on how to remove the frozen ball joints, but I didn't think that they would stick into the control arm also. I am used to dealing with a ball joint where the pin sticks UP into the spindle, and always seems easier to pop out. I want to say that I have only done one other where it faced DOWN (older front drive buick)....I DO remember that one giving me troubles too, but it wasn't as rusty. I can't seem to get enough pressure on, nor a good enough hit directly at the contact point of the pin in the arm. I am afraid that I might peen the stamped steel arm OVER or distort the actual hole for the pin. Any additional tips? Give up? re-assemble and drive it until the balljoint pops out then scrap it?

I am unfamiliar with the plastic separator plate. Where would this be?

So, If I have a full gasket kit, it would be easiest to do the timing and HGs OUT of the car, and at that time, I might be able to check the rod bearing movement if the oil pan is off, does this sound correct? I do not necessarily have the TIME, but I have the extra vehicles, for it to be out of commission and be able to drive another as a loaner. IF the HGs could be done IN the car, I was going to go that route...... but I do not think that I would have a good time with that OR checking the clearance on the valve3s, considering that it took so long to change the spark plugs.....

I have the vehicle up on stands, I started tearing into the suspension for the ball joint cut out job..... I am replacing the fuel filler neck as soon as the correct one comes in the mail. I have read BOTH recommendations of LEAVING the gaskets alone if they are not leaking, AND also to change them, considering the mileage. Car has about 168,xxx miles, I assume that the valve clearance needs checked anyway. I already bought the Subaru HG and timing kits....... I have recently done a coolant pressure test and do not have coolant leaking. SHOULD I or Shouldn't I replace the Head Gaskets at this point, considering the mileage? The car has now been sitting for 2 weeks, so I wonder what new problem will arise. What else should I do while the car is in the air? Also, has anyone ever done patch panels on the typical rust spots behind the rear doors? Does anyone sell patch panels? The car is otherwise still pretty nice I am hope to keep it on the road for a long time, but I do not want it to break me. I need to make it reliable for when I put the '03 H6 sedan in the air for similar ball joints/shocks/fuel filler neck, and hopefully patch panels in the same spots.