kennycoulter

Vehicle has about 155,xxx miles. Would this be a decent kit? DNJ HGS717 OR: MAHLE HS54486?

Well, I got it. It was way nicer than I expected, and it is an actual driving vehicle. He swore that he was the sole driver, new some stuff about subarus, and was showing more info about the car. He was unfortunately going through a divorce and wanted to get rid of the car. You can see the exhaust pressure in the coolant tank and radiator, but oil not mixing. he filled it with more coolant for me to be able to get it home (I expected that it needed towed). It got up to operating temp quick, so I started out worried, but it never got hotter than that. It was maybe a 24 mile ride home. I stopped at a spot and came back to get it a few hours later, expecting a big loss of coolant. it might have been down a cup and a half. Car has plenty of power, and the auto trans feels better then my 2013 fusion. I gave him $800. I still PLAN to take the engine out to re-gasket it, and what ever other required maintenance. He said that he has seen headgaskets performed with engine still in car: Difficult, but not impossible. Your thoughts?

Thank you all for the input. I am a long time Subaru admirer, but have always worked on/owned fords and a few other makes. It is taking me some time to learn all of the typical problems and what to look for in certain models/engines/transmissions.

Thank you for the tip. Being another auto trans, that has me worried too.

He did get back to me to say that it is only smoking, NOT locked up. I figured that I would do a rebuild anyway. What would you guys expect to be a decent price? He advertised it as $1000 obo, and let me know that he already turned down $400. He said to bring cash, he wants to get rid of it.

He got back to me and said that it isn't actually hydro-locked, but is puffing white smoke and overheats. Head gaskets would be needed, but I am assuming this would also need the heads to be resurfaced. I wouldn't mind a teardown if I knew that I could make it more reliable and last a very long time..... BUT, like with the 2.5 gasket failure, and recommendation to switch to the 2.2 gaskets (If I am understanding that correctly)...is there a good alternative for the 3.0?

I can't seem to copy and paste....close to me: 2003 Legacy Outback Sedan 3.0 with hydro-locked cylinder. Automatic. Make offer. Would this be worth looking into?

I will keep the gauge purchase in mind, but I am going to try the fix myself, to keep the correct mileage etc. It worked for me the other day, then didn't work again for my mom....... NOW, I will be trying to chase down the lack of power issue. ALL new tune-up stuff, including new O2 sensors and catalytic convertors, but the middle pipe that connects them to the muffler is still missing for now. I am still getting an O2 sensor code, but I read that will happen with the exhaust not buttoned up....... I don't think the lack of power is related though. I read it is typical for the mass air flow sensor to need cleaned, and the throttle position sensor to read incorrect. The only other problem that I am seeing is it takes quite a few turns for the engine to start,

no. I will hopefully be addressing that soon. I bought the car off of my friend's girlfriend...My friend confirmed that the speedo would sometimes not work. I assume this is definitely the ground issue.

This is a JEBA trans. I picked the car back up yesterday..... I did not feel a 1-2 shift. 2-3 shifted at about 2500, but I was going up an onramp. 3-4 shifted about 3000. While on the highway, I was still going up hill, it downshifted (no idea of speed) then shifted back up to 4 at about 4000. uhhhh....... all of this was my fault. I am too rushed for time, and apparently the vehicle leaked way too much fluid directly onto the ground after I had checked it. Trans shop told me it was 4 quarts low. I use Suzuki bond on gasket surfaces. I have always had good luck, and never a problem with any sealing. I must have squeezed out the trans pan gasket.

Thanks everyone. After posting this, I was searching again about the typical problem on the speedo, and the associated fix. The trans shop hasn't messed with it yet. I checked the fluid while running, but I am thinking that maybe the leak is worse than I originally thought/ lost more that soaked into ground... plugs were NGK. Wires were Beck Arnley.

I have been prepping this car for my mom to take over. I have taken the vehicle through town, and it has shifted through all gears, and I felt no problem with the car AT ALL. I was still trying to get the tune up stuff installed, and will need to get the hatch and ball joints fixed. Last weekend, I installed new plugs and wires plus a fuel filter. I got it done, no problems, just a lot of time. I started the car and had no problem at all other than the typical engine turning to build up fuel into the system. the ONLY other thing that had been done was airing up the tires, removing the seats for a thorough floor and seat cleaning..... My mother finally took the car and attempted a regular drive (excited)..... and extremely let down and angry. She almost got deserted, but limped the car back home. She told me there was no speedometer reading, and the car didn't want to move (the rpms were rising but not shifting). The trans has a slight leak at the pan, so I can imagine that maybe it leaked more fluid than I had thought. NOTHING explains the sudden speedometer not registering. is this just coincidental? Is it a typical problem? I took the car to the trans shop today (extreme lack of time on my part) for them to reseal the pan and refill fluid. Reverse seemed normal, and I got to confirm the problems: rpms go up, car barely moves, speedometer not working at all. Thank you for any and all suggestions.

where do you plug in a code reader? My vehicle is a 1999 Legacy OBW.... Thanks in advance.

I own a 1999 Legacy Limited Outback Wagon. I will be needing to replace a lot of suspension parts, and wondered if "while I am in there"... maybe I can get some better components. I see a lot of requests on LIFTING Subaru vehicles, but I would prefer something that handles really well. The car would still be a normal daily driver type, but prefer to be able to stay stable in curves. Any certain brand or place to shop, without making it an uncomfortable track vehicle?

Well, I am looking for a source for instruction on how to rebuild. The videos that I saved turned out to be for a manual....As mentioned before, I am lacking on time, and finally got around to watching the video after a month. I asked in a few other places around the internet about rebuilding a JEBA at home.

Thank you to everyone! I noticed this weekend that it seems to have HAD a handle to pop it from the inside, near the gas door pull handle........SOOOoooo it must have rusted, then the previous owner tore off the handle trying to get it to work.

Are there any tips on how to fix this? I do not have a manual with the car. Is there another latch popper that I can get the thing open in order to find out what parts I need to get? I live in the EXTREME rust belt, and I suspect that a few parts rusted and broke off, so the handle just flops around.... Is this a typical problem with these cars?

I got a quote today from a transmission shop for a bench top rebuild, me providing the parts: expected as a minimum of $1200. That same shop quoted $2,000 for removal/rebuild/install. The same shop quoted $600 for just a removal/install with me providing a known good transmission.

Where did you buy that? I found one that has a corrugated extendable/moldable hose design that I fear would never empty and also would pick up contaminants like crazy.

Thanks. that is what I meant, the front differential.

I have all of my parts IN or ordered. I will be waiting to see how the transmission acts before putting any of the new parts on. I had some trouble getting the shift cable over the rubber grommet that stayed on both the new used trans and my old original trans. The rubber bushing got tore up pretty bad. I hope I can find a replacement. I now have everything ready to go and ready to try to start and drive after filling the fluids and throwing the exhaust back on (a long process for this job as I only have a literal few hours a week to work on anything) I can't seem to see a fill level plug for the "transfer case". I forget what else I wanted to ask about....

The kit differences are in the "Contitech" brand full kit from Rockauto, but I am seeing people recommending mitsuboshi and aisen w/p...... and I am seeing them for even cheaper.... I will try to check under the left cover. Thank you guys.

Is there a way to know what timing belt tensioner I have without removing anything yet? I want to order my parts kit, but the options are for either a steel or aluminum tensioner.

I had to take a vacation day, but I got the old trans out, and the new one in place. I still have to secure everything and check everything over. I messaged my friend again, about rebuilding the original. I haven't heard back, so I am assuming that I will definitely be doing the rebuild on my own. I found a ground plug from the passenger side head that isn't connected to anything else. I had trouble finding an O2 sensor, as some exhaust was missing....I think I am missing the rear but the plug was there at the back of the transmission. I need to replace the bolts for the ball joints. I hope that I can find them.

Thank you. I will check all of those also. I can't seem to see where the leak is coming from. I have finally been able to talk to my mechanic friend who used to work at a transmission shop. We should be starting things this week. I checked the fluid. IT seems currently high, but my friend and his girlfriend might have added more fluid to move it from one parking lot to the next (rolled down hill) to avoid getting towed. I have not seen more fluid on the ground where I currently have it parked.