Brianmitchtay

Hell yeah man! I'm stoked you got it figured out and happy that my pictures helped - even if it took a while.

It should be an awesome time! and I like the "crappy" rack on your ride, looks very utilitarian. Is it connected to more than just four points on the car? I'm thinking part of my solution might be to somehow connect to the other tracks on the roof to further support and stabilize the load. I'm just nervous that with a 20 foot, 100 lb Kayak, plus a 16 cubic foot, 200 pound Roof box, I'm going to hit a bump or a strong cross wind and have my roof rack blown off the top of the car.

Alright I just popped over there and checked it out. The higher res pictures from your website were definitely very helpful. I had imagined that those two support legs that you have resting on the front bumper were actually connected to the car and provided some rigidity. That's really what I'm shooting to do.

Yeah I'm not a drifter (well not in cars anyway) so I've never heard of that engine. You don't like the ol' reliable EA82? hahah

I just followed the FSM for the distributor timing the last time I did my head gaskets and pulled the distributor off the driver's camshaft case. It has a section about setting the distributor to the camshaft, (Flywheel to 20 degrees BTDC and point the distributor to #1) and then it has another set of steps for getting the belts on and timed correctly where you use the III timing marks. Sometimes I wonder if I'd really have as much fun as I do working on my GL if I didn't have the full Factory Service Manuals to save me from my own mechanical inexperience and ineptitude... probably not.

I'm moving to Glacier Bay National Park for a summer of Sea Kayak touring and I'm planning to bring a ~22 foot, 95 pound, Tandem expedition kayak with me on top of the GL wagon. Reading the weight limits for the track mounted roof rack I have, I'll be WAY over the recommended max of 100 Pounds between the Kayak and my roof box, plus I'll really only have the thing supported in the middle without a support farther forward. So I figure the responsible thing to do is build a kayak support for the front and attach it to the frame somewhere. I'm imagining a welded square bar frame with a pin that I can pull to lay the bar down and across the front of the bumper (i.e. out of the way), or rotate it up to support the kayak if I'm bringing it along with me. I've seen that Dave T has something near what I'm imagining trying to build as his profile photo -albeit super low res - and so I'm hoping he'll come around to shed some light on what he had going on there and more specifically, where and how it was attached to the soob if at all Has anyone else built a custom support like this? If you were going to do it, where would you attach it to the frame? I think I might cut a hole through the plastic cover in front of the radiator if it could be affixed there.

Hi guys, I recently redid the heads on my 1987 EA82 GL wagon, and after I had it all apart I realized that I didn't have new o rings for the camshaft case (or the cam tower itself for that matter) I just used a little bit of the threebond form in place gasket to seal the small hole that sends oil to the lifters, but they tick a bit more now than they did before so I'm wondering if anyone knows where to get a proper o ring to seal it up. The dealer said they can special order them for me but it's $5 a piece and I feel like they're probably out there for cheaper somewhere. Rock auto has the cam tower o rings and seals for $1.88 a set (I've learned my lesson on the actual seals and would only use the o-rings), but none of the little o rings that go between the cam case and the head.

Just got my order from Rock auto and am excited to try GD's post apocalyptic machine shop techniques to mill my heads this time around since I had a gasket blow after only 24k miles since I did this last time without milling the heads. However one of the gaskets they sent me is pretty mashed in one of the corners, would you guys use it? I should probably just be patient and wait for a replacement because I'd really hate to do all this work and then have to take it all apart again.

Has anyone ever shipped an engine before? I'm in Alaska but if it could be done for a reasonable price I might be interested in that ea82 motor

If you feel like it's the lifters themselves, here's a little resource for potentially sourcing some reconditioned ones. I haven't gone through them myself but I know some people here have and have had good experiences. Plus at $4.50/lifter, it's not too expensive either. Not sure if it'd solve your clatter though https://mizpahprecision.com/pricing.htm

Hmm, I didn't have the presence of mind to look at the condition of all the other relays under the dash, but I swapped out the instrument panel lighting relay for the fuel pump one so I could keep using the car in the interim, that relay looked to be in perfect condition. Today the new relay got here and now everything is back as it has been, It even looks like the shop might give me my $$ back since they essentially pretended to have fixed the problem and just charged me ~$500 for something I didn't even need! That's pretty sweet to get a $10 fix instead of half a grand! Plus I learned how relays work I cut the old relay open this evening just to see exactly how bad it was inside and also just to see how it works a bit better, here's a picture, for any curious souls. I didn't bother sawing the metal cover off the coil just to look at it because I was pretty done with hack sawing tiny things by this point. Definitely what was causing problems! Thanks again Robm2

Alright I think I just answered my question for the most part. According to General Disorder in 2007, line end cord output just goes to a dealership only diagnostic tool. Phew! no need to work up a sweat over it I suppose. Here's the thread where I found that info.

Hi all, I've been under my dash pulling my electrical bits apart trying to diagnose something and today while pulling out my ECU to get at my fuel pump relay I noticed a wire coming from one of my ECU plugs that's more than a little janky. The FSM lists the wire as being "Line end cord output" which means a whole lot of nothing to me, so I'm hoping one of you lovely folks might have a better idea what that means so I can decide whether or not I should be fretting over getting it more properly connected. There's the wire in question, old solder barely holding on by one copper strand And here's the FSM labeling that wire as #11 on connector F108, "Line end Cord Output" Does that mean anything to any of you?

I used full synthetic oil for the first few changes after rebuilding the top end of my EA82 when I first bought it, and it leaked considerably worse than regular motor oil does, so now I just use regular. (Granted it was my first engine rebuild ever and I could have just done a better job and my leaks would be considerably smaller). It did run a little more nicely when it was cold in the winter with the synthetic stuff, which was nice. Just my two cents

I think you nailed it! Take a look at these pictures and let me know what you think, definitely some corrosion on the fuel pump relay, I'd be willing to say that it's the culprit. Which is hilarious and sort of terrible because I just paid ~$465 yesterday to get my car back after they installed a new ECU into the car. I went out this morning at about 24F and the car wouldn't start. Ha! So I took it upon myself to pull this little bad boy out and now I've got another one on the way from rockauto for $10 after shipping. Denso Part #056700-5260 on the original relay, but looking up that number Rock auto lists STANDARD MOTOR PRODUCTS RY51, and Denso #567-0047 as acceptable replacements, so hopefully the other denso part number has the poles set up the same way, I couldn't find a listing online that showed the relay diagram and the part number on it.