uniberp

Nevermind.

I got the other stub out. Drilled through and tapped at it with a point punch and hammer until it loosened and moved. I'm replacing these with stainless since they are not load bearing. Can't wait to button this up. Since the balljoint is out, it's a simple matter to replace the axle, but I've replaced this one before. These particular aftermarket boots are obviously not as good as oem. I don't know how to tell good ones from cheap, but I've got axle exchange down to a 30 minute job.

Only snapped the 2 ABS sensor mounting bolts. Drilled one out, coaxed from hole with chisel and punch, have to drill the other. Because I'm replacing the rotted brake shield plates while I'm at it. To avoid snapping the pinch bolt, I try first to break it loose with a short breaker bar (12"). If that doesn't work, I drill a .125 hole straight down the axis from the thread end about .75 inch. This seems to reduce the pressure or something, gives the twist torque somewhere to expand. I drilled the left, the right broke loose no problem. To lever the socket our of the knuckle, a long spud bar for leverage and it's free. A pickle fork finished the job on the stud end. Awesome. Found new pinch btolts at Ace Hardware, called "class 8.8" which equates to Grade 5. I think that is better in case these ever freeze up and need to be drilled out. Subarus have made me think much more long term than I have previously. Just got to get that abs stub out of there and I'm golden. And I have my technique down now. And I'm replacing yet ANOTHER inner right boot (Actually the whole shaft now that I see the outer boot is cracking). My advice, at least for salted areas, any time you have it up on jacks, remove and antiseize every bolt you can reach. mpergielwalkermi99forester97legato08forester

Have your ball joints checked.

My 97 legato's steering wheel looks just like it, but I haven't lifted the lid. The 99 Forester's has come loose from it's steel core, twists around. Anyone know the general rules for interchange on these between Legacy, Forester, Impreza? Looks like about 1998 up to about 2004 are the same? http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1998-1999-2000-2001-2002-2003-2004-SUBARU-LEGACY-OUTBACK-IMPREZA-STEERING-WHEEL-/250896620963?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item3a6a9a9da3

Thanks. I've already had all the knuckles off for bearings and struts, so I hope it's not much more than that (besides the pressing). I'm leery of putting a torch to old suspension parts. I'm gonna start with rack bushings, since steering seems looser than Legato. Now to figure if it's 25 or 30mm.

Clean the battery cable clamp connections.

I believe there is a capped hole on the bottom side of the column near the key where you can insert a pointy tool to release the key.

CoOld it be blowing old water that had collected in the exhaust previously, prior to HG replacement?

1999 Forester, seems like it would benefit from suspension bushings, tie-rod ends, or steering rack mount. Lots of drivetrain noise transferred into body. Tranny and diff aok, Don't know about driveshaft. No vibration, but general looseness compared to my 97 Legato (Legacy Auto). How would you decide what to do first? And do you need a press to do it, or will an arbor press work? I've done 4 struts and balljoints in one day, so I'd like to have alll the parts on hand and avoid multiple trips to the parts store. What would you buy and from where? Thank in advance. Mpergielwalkermi99forester08forester97legato

If they lapped the valves when they fixed the HG, then it will burn excess oil. Common mistake to put new heads on an old engine. The tighter valves create more suction in the cylinder and that pulls oil up from the crankcase, and burns it.

make sure it has airbag(s)

On a 98 there are so many things old that it's hard to say. I would even guess shocks, halfshafts, wheel bearings, driveshaft, steering rack or tires before I'd worry about the clutch. A 3 to 2 downshift is the biggest rev change and highest torque on the drivetrain. No one ever (rarely) does a 2-1 downshift driving on normal roads at half redline.

It's your chance to be a real do-it-yourselfer. If you can arrange another car for a couple of weeks, and a have a decent selection of standard sockets and hand tools, you can replace the headgaskets in the car, leaving each day's work under a closed hood and parts in a box in the back. The critical thing, of course is getting a good seal on the gasket and tight torque on the bolts. ANd keeping grit out of everything. Set yourself daily goals. Remove timing parts, drop exhaust, and lift manifold day one. Day two remove heads and take them to a shop for opinion/resurfacing. and buy the parts. Take day 3 off. Day four double check clean surfaces and reassemble one side and torque. Day five reassemble the other side and torque. Day six double check your torques and consider what you've done. Don't overtorque. Day 7 devote to the timing gear stuff. Day 8 manifolds, accessory belts, get it back on the road. If you're a newbie, each of these tasks will seem formidable, and the nagging doubt that you're doing it right or that you've forgotten something wil haunt you. The Haynes manual will provide perhaps excess detail and confusion, but is necessary. Buy a "click" torque wrench (craftsman is $80).

It appears the consensus is "yes, change the water pump". Thank you. I will do that.

One one bottle of the Subaru OEM bottle, I read years ago, that it contained "linseed husks". I though that was curious. I have no problem adding that. So I do. For external HG leaks only.

Is it still the generally accepted wisdom to changeout the waterpump when you do a timing belt? 2002 Forester sohc. And why are there 4 cam seals in this kit? http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=360325256177 I never did cam seals before. They never seemed damp. Thanks MP 97 legato 99 forester 08 forester

I either use WIX or the Black OEM ones, but I'm out, and I want more of those black ones. Looks like only the blue ones are on ebay. I need to search on the manufacturer I think, begins with "N..." ...Never mind, They seem to be "union sangyo" and same as the blue ones . I got a case of TVI filters for $2 each. At that price I can cut one open and see what it looks like. If only to use on the legato.

I think it's a testament to Subaru durability that you could idle the car with 280k miles with AC on for 15 minutes and wonder if somethings wrong.

Great overall description, thanks. I always have my local parts shop press them in and out, trusting them. Is it possible to press one IN with an arbor press or something like that, that I could do at home, that would give me that accurate feel for how evenly it inserted? I've done rear forester a couple times, I think. I can't even remember now.

Ever change plugs and wires? 90% of all fuel problems are electrical.

Check that your crank pulley is not out of balance, indicating looseness and possible crankend damage occurring. They come loose occasionally.

Pull the knuckles and take them to a shop to have the bearings pressed. $15 labor each is what I pay. Far better than fooling around with a one sided screw press. Mow the lawn or shovel the driveway while you wait.

It all turned out right in the end, but it was funny that it happenned at all: I was busy, and it's cold, so I took my 2008 Forester and Nihon filter and went to the quick oil change place. No problem, $3 discount for using my filter. They proceeded. How about tire rotation? Sure, $12, they said. SOLD, said I. When they were finished with oil change, pull into the next bay, put it on the lift. Started car, put in gear. Uh, wait. Hesitation to engage. WTF. Maybe me. Stop, start again, nope, something wrong. Pulled into bay. "Did you put that drop of red paint on the drain plug?" I asked. "Yes." "That's the transmission." said I. I pointed out the sump plug and engine oil filter. They had drained the tranny and replaced the tranny oil filter, I guess because they appear obvious and prominent when under the car. The engine plug and filter are much more hidden. Engine oil filter is same as tranny oil filter on this car. They grovelled around straightening things out. Tranny fill, Proper engine oil change, tire rotation. So after all the fright, they gave me a bunch of discounts and the whole thing cost me less than $30. A little sweat, but they were kids and I was nice and they learned a little about subus.

Also, check your battery ground strap. The end on the block for sure. This sounds like it could be a simple aging issue.