uniberp

I thought those adjusters were always really difficult to rotate, being a large diameter. If they were loose enough to turn easily, would that indicate something having come loose and out of adjustment? It seems unlikely that wear alone could cause that much movement.

These cars (like most cars) have ECU's that adapt and remember to sensor input conditions. The sluggishness you feel is due primarily to a retarded ignition timing condition that the ECU sends when knock is detected. The knock is caused by plugs, wires, fuel flow, etc. and must be corrected before the sluggishness will abate. It will take several cycles with all inputs being correct before the ECU will believe all repairs and maintenance have been done correctly. (Cycles as in aircraft takeoff/landings.) It takes time and study MUCH more than money. All required info is on this board. Like everyone said, plug wires, fuel filter, to start. A $40 code reader from harbor freight will let you do it at home. That said, I do not know if torque bind conditions affect ECU. A separate TCU is largely responsible for tranny/AWD operations. Additional torque load on teh engine caused by a failing tranny could cause knocking and subsequent ignition retard, but that would be a pretty severe case and you would feel other symptoms like in the above mentioned torque bind test. Have you done that?

Again, here's my pics. This one shows the ring seal that slipped out of the groove on the TC shaft and prevented complete insertion of the TC pas that last .25 inch. I recommend getting a new part, since the old one gets floppy and slips out of the groove. This is the new part in a bag with number: This is the correct placement of the TC looking at the bottom: You can see how it matches the cutaways.

Aye. If I'm ever "chortled" at, I consider the source.

Seems to me the best way to increase performance of these cars is gradually driving them harder so the ECU remaps to new performance demands. Of course, this is after you do the mileage maintenance replacements of plug wires, plugs, pvc, what all... I say gradually, because stomping on a low-rpm shifting easy going legacy can easily jumps 2 gears and 3k rpm and slams the gearbox with sudden huge torque, bending everything in sight and making you feel queasy. :cool: By gradually driving it harder, my legato now seems to be readier to downshift when I REALLY want that empty lane.

Just to play devil's advocate... I also have a 12 year old Legato and it has rust spots that I have sandblasted with a HF spotblaster, touch with POR, then fill with glazing compound and painted with a rattle can. It will be a continuous process going forward, sort of like greasing zurks in the old days. The one spot you see is only the beginning. I would get used to spackling it together yourself. Instead of spending the money in body shop, you can buy it nicer tires next time. Next spot will be bottom of the a-piller, at the rocker.

97 Legato (Legacy 2.2 auto). I have a pool of ATF upper right front of the engine, obviously from PS pump, occasionally needs refill. I bought a cheap OEM pump rebuild kit, but thought I better ask around before removing a basically-fine-but-leaking-a-little working part and facing pointless difficulties that can be worked around merely by adding ATF every few weeks or so. Is the remove-rebuild-replace a couple hour thing? Thanks mpergielwalkermi97legate99forester08forester

Thanks all. Yes, there is NOT an adjustable preload on the bearing. When the axle nut is pulled tight, it is set to a specific tolerance and load. NO amount of excess torque (unless destructive) will change the preload. What was interesting was the difference between a worn-but-still-good bearing and a new bearing. Quieter and handling feels tighter. The ball joint and TRE were still quite stiff as they should be. I'd now recommend (front) wheel bearing replacement at 150k. That and the new GR2's make it feel as nice as my 08, albeit slower.

I replaced a front axle that was clicking-clunking, did the brakes while I was in there, and reassembled the whole thing. Before I lowered teh car so I could tighten the axle nut, I noticed the whole assembly shook as if a wheel bearing was loose. "AhHa, I said, that's the source of high speed vibration." So I disassembled it and took the hub to shop to have a new bearing pressed. Happily reinstalled the hub, connected tie-rod and balljoint, bolted up strut and brake caliper, and tightend everything but the axle nut. Lo and behold, it still rocked a little the same way as if before the bearing was replaced. "What the heck?" The old bearing felt to the hand quite loose but not grindy. The new bearing was smooth as is should be. Yet the new assembly moved visible, maybe .125" at the tire edge, and I could feel the movement. Oh wait, as I write I realize the preload on the inner race is set by the axle nut. Or that the inner races are tightened against the spacer by the axle nut. My bad. Nevermind. Oh well, it still seems to feel tighter while driving now. I guess it was worth the extra $90.

It there is static pressure (while stopped) in the existing system, it means probably no significant leak. Test by poking the valve. If pressure It may be worth a $25 can of recharge to get through the hot months. It you want to refurb the whole thing, o-rings are advised, but get the system professionally evacuated and freon captured. Even R134 is not levgal to vent or eco-friendly.

Before you put a lot of money into it, reassemble it and see if it overheats. Likely not, but a "leak" may indicate more than the water pump. I'd risk the cost of a waterpump but not much more at this point.

H6's get lower gas mileage, according to epa.gov. Turbos require premium gas. There is no such thing as a perfect car, in fact, the more expensive to buy, the more expensive to fix. I have a 99 EJ25, an 08 EJ25 and a 97 2.2 liter and I like driving the 2.2 hard as it has 200k and seems to thrive on use. Never had an H6. Not inclined. Too tight an engine bay for me.

Another rear wheel bearing in the 99 forester is noisy. Had a shop do it last time due to time/distance constraints and don't know if he did it wrong (stressed the race) or the part was junk. Anyhow, the Nasioc report specs a "Nissan" superior part, and references to NTN are made, but all I see is Timken, Koyo and "Beck Arnley" without manufacturer name. I am sure there are bad new bearingsz out there, and I don't want one of those this time. Where to get? Thanks mpergielwalkermi99forester97legato08forester

If it's an auto, the simple way to lock the crank is to remove the rubber inspection port plug above teh flywheel, under the intake manifold, and stick a wrench in there to jam the flywheel, while you torque down the crank bolt. If it's stick, I suppose you can just lock it in gear with the e-brake on.

I talked to CCR about an engine, and they said they do NOT bench test them. That bothered me a bit until I thought about it and it keeps costs down. They know what they are doing and they have a good track record. From my experience, new rings need to be run HARD intemittantly to seat properly. Maybe others should pipe in here. ,

How hard would it be to pull the heads FIRST and see what's up there? 100k is nothing for the cylinders and bottom end. That OB should be cheap.

If you were driving an older car (7+ years), it's probably the shocks make the apparent difference, not the tires. There is a night and day difference between my 99 and o8 foresters, but not a big difference between 97 legacy with new kyb shocks and the 08.

Avoid driving it until this issue is addressed. There are many thread on the pulley problem. It is fairly common. It can usually be fixed. I fixed mine. The problem gets serious when the tip of the crankshaft gets severely worn by the wobbling pulley. Even somewhat worn crankshaft tips can work fine. The problem is caused by the center bolt coming loose and allowing the pulley to shake, and that damages the crank. First, undo the bolt and remove the pulley and inspect. The pulley drives AC alternator and PS pump. Loosen belts and remove. Depending on the condition of pulley and crank and keyway, you may be able to repair it by: a) bolting it back together securely with locktite. removing broken key, clean up keyway, replacing key, replacing pulley, bolting it tight. c) replacing pulley (i used aftermarket lightweight aluminum), replacing key. The trick is that the Pulley must sit flat on the end of the crank. The bolt pressure is usually enough to hold it. If it is not flat and concentric, it will wobble and cause the problem all over again. Also, 105,000 miles is recommended replacement of timing belt. I would also replace the belt to avoid doing it again in 25K. If car is worth keeping, rustwise, I would replace all the timing pulleys, tensioner, and waterpump while in there. Kits are avilable on ebay. It really only requires time patience, a place to keep it while working, and a good torque wrench. Pics of the crank end (with pulley removed) will help the experts here tell you the best solution. Good luck. Many of us have been there.

Gas mileage?

An occasional can of Techron injector cleaner will perk it up. I like the list posted above, and I'd put bad injector spray at the top. When that happens, and it does, excess carbon accumulates and causes wear and stuff. New plug wires I recommend, because those seriously degrade at that mileage. There are many opinions about plug wires, but high quality silicone aftermarket ones are avialable, IMO. Blue NGK.

I used anaerobic sealant. http://www.permatex.com/products/Automotive/automotive_gasketing/anaerobic_gasket_makers/Permatex_Anaerobic_Gasket_Maker_b.htm

Sorry to say, but between the headgasket and the suspension it sounds like that car was run hard and beat by the previous owner. Even superb cars can be knocked down by neglect.

I found it again. http://grandrapids.craigslist.org/cto/1095982348.html I guess he decided not to mention the disabled AWD this time. Whatchthink?

Same gasket and diameter, just wondered if anyone got a cap wrench in there without problem. Can't fit my hand in, and the exhaust is hot when I change oil, so got to use the cap wrench. Clearance to exhaust is close around the filter

Between the Legato and truck, I have 300k on the vehicles and decided I'd paid my dues and did my part by buying a new car after 10 years. Got a 2008 Forester, after looking at the 2009 Forester (looks like a CRV) and had to go with the coke bottle fender lip look and slightly nicer interior. The 2009 underhood was much more inviting, seemed like gallons of space in there, but I got a deal and it's awesome to drive a new car. Aside from the throttle-by-wire, which I try not to think about too much, the only other thing is the new smaller oil filter, which I DON'T LIKE. Seems designed to fit inside the new rerouted exhaust system. Requires a filter wrench to remove. Will standard subie oil filters filt the 2008? Now that we have 3 between households, I want to buy them by the case. http://www.wixfilters.com/filterlookup/index2.asp?Section=1&Make=73&SubMake=&Model=852&SubModel=-1&Engine=&Year=2008&TempSection=1&TempMake=73&TempModel=852&TempEngine=&TempSubModel=-1&TempYear=2008 mpergielwalkermi97Legato99Forester08Forester