uniberp

http://grandrapids.craigslist.org/cto/1090136535.html 4EAT, auto. Can it actually run well if it was AWD disabled? The fact that he say he gets better MPG with 2WD indicates to me he's not that expert.

Rear has an adjustable bolt just like the front, I'm certain.

I don't want to diminish your case, but rather try to ease your worry. I don't think oil is generally passed out from a leaking headgasket, and valve cover bolts are not headbolts, so I don't think there was a basic failure to torque everything correctly.

Is it possible that the discoloration near the DSide headgasket (on 1K_04drivfrontcloseup.jpg) is melted gasket sealant? The VC gaskets can be easily addressed, and yes, it appears the PSide is leaking.

Listen to a WRX some time. It is not a pretty exhaust note. Subaru's seem to double up exhaust pulses so they just plain sound out of tune when you put a coffee can system on them.

I mean at 170k miles, it's starting to sound like a diesel when starting cold, and takes about 15 minutes to go away. I hope valve adjustment is fairly straightforward, with little caps and cup things, and can be done without removing anything but valve covers. Just to get some more life out of it, and avoid popping off a valve top. No desire at this point to lift the heads.

I would get on the phone with them. There is something wrong with their online catalog. I ordered a tailgate latch mount plate form tehm, and it explicitly says "This is the part that rusts out", and they sent the handle instead.

First three numbers of the firing order?

So, does it work, or doesn't it? I couldn't resist.

IDK about '92, but the only difference in my 97 model year is the spring seat is about 2 inches higher in the OB. After it was all done I wished I had replaced springs as well. And the additional axle angle made my right front inner boot fail in the next year, too. But the local tire store did a good alignment cheap, so that was nice.

It sounds like the internal spline MAY be worn. On the transmission end of the axle. It would not be visually obvious. I've never heard of it. I don't know what would cause it. Possibly, as the axle spins faster, it centers itself due to gyroscope effect, and the clicking noise stops.

ED: I stand corrected. See below. Many threads available on this. Best bet IMO is pull engine and reseal if bottom end is sound. Nothing wrong with DOHC that a correct HG install can't fix. Head warp due to high heat can cause cam siezure in time, so simply refacing heads is not indicated.

There are laws against fraud.

"HHO" is total snakeoil. Basic chemistry knowledge makes it obviously a scam.

Maybe you should double check the timing marks on that timing belt. It will run ok but be a little wonky and will throw a code.

I have found these plugs are frighteningly stiff to remove. I did it with no trouble, but nightmare of stripped plug holes haunt me. I think I even cracked them loose, sprayed penetrant, then waited overnight, and they still felt like they needed 35 foot lbs to twist loose. I guess that's the design, aluminum heads and all. I know old BMW motorcycles have soft heads and frequently havenearly stripped plug holes because of casual mechanics.

Oddly, it is. Or not so oddly. That same dimension is used on all later sube engines. Too great a thickness can cause too much heat distortion. Thinner is often better. The design problem with the 98 is the DOHC headgasket itself, I believe, not the block or the head.

Thanks to this board, I replaced my right front axle last night in less than an hour, without even getting under the car. Used a 36" long ~1/4" rod to knock the pin out from above. IDK if this would work on the left. Marked and undid the lower strut bolts and undid the axle nut, and it was in a and out in no time. Drove to work, still aligned. Very satisfying. Now we'll see how good that $24.95 shaft from ebay is.

NO one yet mentioned the probable fact that, if an aluminum pulley comes loose, wouldn't it do less damage to the crank than the OEM iron heavyweight? I use an Agency power now after the original slipped up.

1. Are you sure you replaced the ECU temp sensor and not the one for the gauge? I ask becaus ethat's the kind of mistake I make, but since your codes don't show a prob there, this is probably not it. 2. I also have a 97 Legato (Leg-auto 2.2) and had gas mileage problems. Did all the same changes as you and got it back on track. Now get 27 AVERAGE, 16mile 50 mph commute. Very happy. 3. I also still have gas smell at startup, and I think it's plain too rich for this older (165k miles) engine. My theory is that compression is down due to tired rings, so less air is ingested, but same fuel amount, based on temp only, is injected, while cold. What I want to do is put a 10k-20kohm resistor in parallel with the temp sensor, which will flatten the resistance curve. Leaner when cold, same when hot. 4. (Not likely but...) Brakes dragging? I noticed caliper piston locking on the 99 Forester we also have and that need to ba addressed (uneven pad wear indicated).

Batteries that have been run down recover a bit on their own, often enough to restart the car and go a little further. I suspect alternator AND battery. IDK if subes have a "limp home" mode, but I'll bet it's close to the 'cold start' settings, which are overrich and will bog down for a warm engine.

Maybe it would be incentive for them not to tailgate.

Here's what I'm thinking: 1. Add an ignition distributor, somehow. Some cam-end thing like on a volvo. 2. Machine a mount for a carb atop or in front of the manifold, move the coil pack a little. 3. Put in a regulator and piping 4. Mount a 10-50 lb tank on the back bumper. 5. Lock the trottle plate closed. 6. Shut down the ECU. 7. Reconnect plugs to distributor 134 cu inches, not much bigger than a forklift. We're talking Michigan here, so emissions will probably not be introduced for another 10 years. Thoughts?

My understanding is that water/mist/foam injection serves only to reduce the charge temperature and thereby increase density, and was only worthwhile on forced induction engines. The whole HHO thing is complete snakeoil.