uniberp

Check the power steering fluid level.

Expansion valve. It's in the case right alongside the evaporator coil. The entire case can be pretty easily lifted out of the dash with the glovebox cover removed. Be sure to lubricate the (green,(i forge the compound) new) orings with compressor oil when reinstalling.

The ball joint separator I used is the lever type, like this: http://www.jcwhitney.com/autoparts/...ZX/appId-480787 The inside of the fork had to be ground away a bit (with angle grinder) to get enough purchase grip on the upper side of the control arm. Loosen the nut, get the separator in place. Since I was going to replace the balljoint I pretty freely hammered it into position. Screw it tight and wait a few minutes; mine popped off pretty quickly. (I hate pickle forks) . the rivet between the 2 parts of the puller eventually fails, but is easily replaceable with a bolt. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=30287

I'm shopping for tires. Brand, size, I'm indifferent. In these days of potholes and wallboard screws scattered carelessly around Home Depot parking lots, tires seem to get trashed before they fill out their useful life, and with the AWD sensitivity, it means throwing out 3 good with one bad, usually. I'm thinking my best bet is to have a complete matching 5th and move it into the tire rotation. We lucked out last time on L's Forester with 2 trashed tires (the above mentioned wallboard screws). She had the road hazard warranty which covered 2 tires so we only had to throw away 2 usable tires with (1/3) life in them instead of 3. The Legato lost a hoof Tuesday to something. I'm thinking of getting a 5th tire and a wheel, in the hopes that over the lifetime I can probably get the full usable life out of the tires. And stay out of Home Depot parking lots. :cool:

(From memory) Look at the diagram of the fuel injection system for N/A engines. There is a 'control bypass valve' in the upper middle somewhere. From what I can see underhood ( and the diagram), it simply shunts air bypassing the throttle plate for some reason, from near the air filter to the intake near the head. It could be an auxiliary air valve for cold start. How would it explain the increased performance and gas mileage is disconnected. The valve tests OK. I'm sure it's responding to some other input, but what?

It probably is an outside chance, but make sure the tires all match in diameter. I usually see worn out tires on the front on used Subes in car lots, and I know it makes a big difference in how the drivetrain sounds.

I used the Harbor Freight tranny scissors jack. You need heavy jack stands. An electric impact wrench makes things go faster. A good torque wrench. U-joint socket connectors help. A camera. Somethign to support the engine from the front/ I made a crosspiece with a u-hook that bolted to the AC bracket and let me adjust the angel up and down. Replacement bolts and gaskets for the exhaust. A replacement "split ring" for the TC shaft.

Is that what they call the "bypass valve" in the Haynes diagram?

I'm replacing the part because it makes a consistent night-and-day difference in the rich smell and drivability when it was disconnected and reconnected several times. What I suspect is that it is opened at startup to purge and possibly provide a little richness as a side benefit. This one is aged and sticks open and wrecks cold drivability. Positive gas vapor pressure may be produced when the car is simply sitting, just like a gas can will pressurize if left outside.

Does this thing stick open when it fails? http://www.subarupartsforyou.com/cp_partdetail.php?partid=6374 I want to just buy it and swap it, but that would be not be diligent on my part. Is it a common failure part? 155k miles. I disconnected it, and the very rich stink at idle disappeared on the next startup. If it stuck open or opened on start that would make sense, sincve vacuum is highest at idle, and any available source will be sucked in. Does it activate by default when the engine is first started? Does vapor build up and trigger it through some other pressure sensor? I suppose I could run some solvent through it to see if it clears up. I understand that vapor can build up and exhaust to atmosphere if it is not connected. Sorry about the eariler thread aboutthe CoolanTempsensor, but that may come in handy after this is solved. mpergielelmhurstil97legato"sport"99forester.

Sorry can't resist: "tool (like a dipstick"

Sorry can't resist: "tool (like a dipstick"

UH WAIT, WAIT. It's the "air bypass" solenoid I unplugged. I couldn't see in the dark. Totally different issue. Still runs much better with it unplugged. Totally different issue, I hope this gets buried. Thanks NIpper, I saw the charat in the Haynes. Thats plug on the temp sensor is impossible to get to. Cracked some small hoses trying. Slinking away hoping not to be noticed.

Har. Thanks much. I can work from there. (ed.: next day) This morning it was snowing (about 32F) so I decided to take the Legato and didn't want to smell that rich gas at all so I put a jumper across the Coolantempsensor and it started and ran great, idled easily (used to rumble). At the first stop, it threw a CEL, so more fix is required. I charted the numbers and got a curve, so I think I may be able to tune this with that parallel resistor, but first I have to measure the sensor hot, when I get home, and the last thing I want to do immediately is dig under a hot hood.

(ed note posted 2 days later) ' UH WAIT, WAIT. It's the "air bypass" solenoid I unplugged. I couldn't see in the dark. Totally different issue. Still runs much better with it unplugged. Totally different issue, I hope this gets buried. Thanks NIpper, I saw the charat in the Haynes. Thats plug on the temp sensor is impossible to get to. Cracked some small hoses trying. Slinking away hoping not to be noticed. (end ed.) I think I want to play around with the collant temp sensor feedback to the ECU. I read that that a cold CTSensor has 2.8k ohms. Does anyone know what the hot is supposed to be? If I put a fairly large reisistor in parallel with the circuit, it will lower the cold resistance proportionally more than it lowers the hot resistance, kind of compressing the curve. Would this lean out the cold mix? The 97 2.2 Legato 153k runs too rich when cold, but perfectly when warm, except for a kind of hard idle. I've checked all other things. My feeling is that at this engine at 153k has lowered compresssion and doesn't need all that gas when cold. I assume the cold start mix is a baseline and not mixed from the MAF, because there is no air flow when stopped. Anybody have a done deal to share on this? (ed note --------- mpergielelmhurstil97legato99forester

Th old mothballs myth LIVES.

Drum brakes last longer.

That appears to be an alignment issue, possibly combined with bad control arm bushings. The static alignment may be okay, but when brakes or gas are applied, the bushing compresses and pushes the alignment out of whack. Once a wear pattern like that gets started, it is self-amplifying. Foresters are not easy on tires to begin with, small car, big engine, high center of gravity. A good local tire store, or maybe a Firestone, might be able to help you out.

Mine was toed-in more than a degree after teh swap. An alignment is probably in order.

I also, had a dust shield that appeared to rust itself thick enoughto rub during left turns.

Also, engines are noisier when very cold, and I think the knock sensor picks up more rattle and retards the ignition more in winter. I firedu up the very cold Legato and took off quickly in a hurry a couple weeks ago and it still hasn't reset to normal, feel like. It hasn't forgiven me yet. And gas mileage is down to around 22.

There is a little fiber split ring in a groove around the TC shaft. When it gets old it easily slips halfway out and jams between the tc shaft and the trans tube. Thhis will prevent the last 1/4" insertion. I posted pics. See my pics.

The photo looks like it, but the rendering shows a sleeve. I don't doubt for a minute that it can be done, but the question is not whether "subaru hires qualified engineers". My question is whether they can produce castings of sufficient strength to allow a 2 piece block connected by long bolts to absorb the stresses inherent in diesel combustion, at low enough cost to sell enough to recoup their investment and make it worthwhile to continue building them. If I thought a Rolls was worth it, I'd seriously shop for one.

I for one cannot imagine a sleeved aluminum diesel engine. I've seen the pics, and wish them the best, and if it works, I'll get one. But until then, I just can't see it.

Leg-acy. That seems pretty heavy to me. I was thinking it might make a reference point for others who tow and may have similar symptoms. How do you tell "when the torque converter disengaged"?