uniberp

How heavy is your camper and what mountain have you towed it over how fast? Wondering if a Leg is strong enough.

Look for a tranny on http://www.car-part.com. Subaru auto trannys are suppose to be pretty tough, so chances are you'll get a decent one used. There's a thread here about the longevity of the sube auto trans.

Vacuum generated oil from 'wherever' (guides or rings) could be building up in the exhaust piping and burning off when combustion gets hot again.

Check the whole kit on ebay from pelham. I got best prices there.

The Subaru factory is in Lafayette, IN. You'd think there's be some enthusiasts around there. I'm in west suburban Chicago, but I never used a shop. Sorry. Maybe http://www.ivytech.edu/schools/technology/automotive-tech/index.html

How much oil? Oil is less likely to get into coolant than coolant into oil, and is less of a problem. Coolant in oil creates emulsion and can compromise bearings. The dark crud in the coolant is likely NOT leaking oil. More likely it's debris from minor internal corrosion of hoses.. When a headgasket goes bad, exhaust from the cylinder gets intot he coolant and makes the overflow tank bubble when running. Eventually the failure will result in misfiring. If the HG failure is close to oil and coolant passages, the high pressure of the coolant can push into the oil passsage and create a green foamy mix visible on your dipstick. However, the Phase1 DOHC (96-99) is known for HG failure (20%). The symptoms I don't really know, other than bubbling coolant.

$3000 worth of cat replacements? Kidding, right? Seem like something else would have been investigated in that time.

Any advice on finding the correct glass to replace the left-hand non-heated, electrically adjustable, outside mirror glass on a 99 forester L would be appreciated. It seems the aftermarket parts suppliers think there is one large mirror size only. Part number?

Plus parts. :-\

So owning a Prius makes it righteous to sit at lights in city trafffic? I think what Subaru needs to make is a US legal utility van on the order of a smaller Sprinter in the tradition of the 360 van. Build in on the tribeca platorm but put a 2.2 litere in it. If they build a diesel it should be first for a truck to prove out the casting design.

There's a baffle on the plate the would be difficult or impossible to confirm clean or inspect if it cast into the block.

Drive like you have an egg between your foot and the throttle.

Heres' my pics. This one shows the ring seal that slipped out of the groove on the TC shaft and prevented complete insertion of the TC pas that last .25 inch. I recommend getting a new part, since the old one gets floppy and slips out of the groove. Thi sis the new part in a bag with number: This is the correct placement of the TC looking at the bottom: You can see how it matches the cutaways.

Did you disconnect the battery while doing the work, therby resetting the ECU to stock? Are you sure your CEL light is working? Plugs and wires, maybe? IMExperience, 95% of all fuel problems (suspected) are ignition problems (actual).

Do you mean the stock gauge? Can anyone confirm? I can easily see it, but if true and/or spec, then a modification/second gauge is very much in order. I mean, if you temp gauge read the same but is actually athe the top of the 205 range, that's pretty near 'uncomfortable'.

Those would be called "knockoffs" I think. I give the builder a little credit, except for the white. The front airdam was probably an opportunity part to replace a mucked up one. The wheels are kind of sad, but it's at $1825 with no reserve, so he's doing what he can. I wouldn't touch it myself, but if I had a pole barn, why not?

When I removed that pinch bolt, it was so tight I feared snapping it. I could see the bolt head twist but not the thread end turn, by marks. I drilled into the thread end directly, as centered as possible, one inch deep with a 1/8" drill, to relieve some of it's grip. If I was slightly off and it touched the threads, that may have allowed some Pblaster to infiltrate and allow easier removal. I just didn't see a ready way to recover from a snapped bolt there, so I did it as a preventative measure.

There is a pinned hole that connects the inner cv hub to the axle stub. If that pin is missing the cv can retreat a bit off the axle stub. IDK if that pin is critical, it may have been missed on the tranny reinstall. If there was no vibration it seems odd that the shaft would be wobbling enough to fail the seal.

2000rpm at idle is practically 'racing'. I can't see how it would not seem normal at all to anybody. Mybe your instruments are faulty. Idle chould be about 700 rpm.

How about a slightly bent valve or valves? Or possibly match-worn guides? As they rotate in the guides while running, they might clatter more or less. I notice random but seemingly cylcic periods of tapping in my Legato and Forester as they are idling, that has no relation to operating temperature or anything.

www.car-part.com gives regional availabitlity and pricing, sometimes colors

I see Legacy Postal RHD cars seem to attract a premium price even with 300k miles. I'm wondering what parts from those it takes to convert a lower mileage LHD Legacy to RHD. There have to be RHD's in boneyards, since they lived hard lives as postal vehicles. Firewall parts for RHD, steering column, rack, dashboard, door panels, window switches. Anybody done it?

Can't a lean mix be caused by vacuum leak? look closely athe the bottom connection of the rubber boot connecting to the throttle body. Mine was caught enough to possibly leak.

Toe-out can feel like 'play' Maybe teh driver hit somethign pretty hard and whacked the alignment.

The unique configuration of subaru engines, with a 2 cylinder aluminum head on a thinwall aluminum block, IMO, means there will inherently be a greater chance of HG failure on a hard used engine. There is simply less material to absorb vibration and heat, and the rates of expansion are difficult to control in such intricate castings and assemblies. I watch the temp gauge on my Subies as closely as possible.