uniberp

Heat the case? Or chisel/crack the cover and remove the pieces? I don't like any of this. If the seal is damaged, the bearing is probably too. That bearing has to be preloaded precisely. Unless it's a totally trashed unit, I wouldn't do it.

Is it a left hand thread? And coarse alloy threads into ally housings leave a lot of room for corrosion to build up. Try taking apart a lower unit of an outdrive. I think you may have to tip the unit an put a soaked rag on top for it to absorb enough to overcome the corrosion.

Do rear drums last longer than rear disks?

FWIW, I think drum brakes last a lot longer than disk brakes. I've been through 3 sets of front disc brakes on my pickup and not yet need new rear drums. So, in THAT sense, maybe drums are superior.

If it was 'caked' I question whether that is big enough leak to warrant the risk of replacement. That means only enough oil leaks out to be absorbed by dust that is picked up, which would not be much. If it were 'wet' or 'dripping' that might be another story.

99 Forester 2.5 SOHC Auto. Looking for threads and advice on oil separator plate replacement. It's losing a quart between oil changes, bottom of engine in pretty wet. I worry that it can't go on this way for much longer without really failing. What else should be done when the engine is pulled from an auto as standard maintenance? Is there a step by step? Illustrated? Nothing in the USRM. (ed.: I found this which pretty much covers it http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=965763) Thanks mpergielelmhurstil99forester97legato

It could be a piece of gravel or other road grit caught in the pad.

Is there a way to title/register these in the US?

A portable DVD player costs about $60 and runs right off a 12vdc connector.

I want to do that also to the Legato, but I want SOME protection left for knock sense. Engine damaging detonation is not necessarily audible to the human ear. I don't want to alway run premium either, as this seems to help. Aside from an audio knock sensor, it seems there would be someway to monitor detonation through gas analysis or a noise filter or something something, but I haven't found one.

What testing are you referring to? Is there a benchmark by a 'reputable' lab somewhere? The mythbusters test, yes I know they are not engineers, was done in identical suvs at a fixed speed, I think 50mph, with windows open ac off and windows closed ac on full. It wasn't a terrible illustration. http://kwc.org/mythbusters/2004/11/mythbusters_boom_lift_catapult.html "Windows down vs. air conditioning "Urban puzzle": it is more efficient, on a hot day, to run with the A/C on and windows up than to run with windows down (b/c of increasing car's drag). Computer-based mpg measurements: 11.7/11.8 with A/C on and windows up 11.7/11.8 with A/C off and windows up 11.3 with A/C off and windows down So, according to the computer, it's better to use A/C with windows up. This was too quick and easy for TV, so they decided to stage a seven hour marathon, race-til-you're-empty duel, with Jamie driving an SUV with A/C on and Adam driving an SUV with windows down. Though, once the safety inspector intervened, it was no longer a seven-hour marathon, it was a bit slower (45mph instead of 55mph), and a lot shorter (only 5 gallons each). Jamie's A/C car ran out of gas first -- Adam's windows down SUV ran for another 30 laps -- completely contradicting the computer mpg estimate. Computer estimate based on air flow into the engine, so it would appear that it is unable to properly model the difference between A/C and windows down."

I t'ink dis was completely busted on "mythbusters". I s'pose "some vehicles" could include airplanes, do'. My experience on all vehicles is AC~= 18% loss, windows don't matter.

I suspect they were in a long time. 145K miles .015 wear puts it at the low end of the wear rate. (.050 measured minus .035 orig spec equals .015) As to the tightness, I was half expecting something like a soft Beemer airhead plug, which will strip out if you speak harshly to it. Glad it's not. And washers were intact on all removed plugs. BTW: Non OB Legacy 2.2 plugs are really easy to get at. Unsnap airbox and unbolt squirt reservoir. Thanks

I pretty much solved the last of the drivability issues with the Legato by replacing plugs (and plug wires). I didn't seen anybody mention how tight the plugs would be. I was afraid they were fused in and I was damaging something by unscrewing them. I stopped, sprayed some pblaster and though about the possibility of messing up an otherwise OK running car. They all unscrewed equally hard (like 30 ft lbs, by feel) , and gapped at .050. So they've been in there a while. Someone here posted an NGK mileage/wear chart I wish I could find. I put anti-sieze on the new NGK's and installed them. It ran lots better. Also, there seems to be a mid-year plug wire change for the 97. An NGK set I ordered had male 'coil' ends and no 90 degree cap on 2. The local parts store guy found a set by a crosscheck , with femail ends AND the 90 cap, so I bought them. FWIW, the wires seemed to make no difference. The plugs made all the difference. mpergielelmhurstil97legato99forester

Did the shop that recharged it notice any of these things?

If the idlers spin freely replace those. Bearings should be smooth but not loose in any way. I'd go ahead and get the cogged lower left idler, as that one seems to be the most common loose one. And aligning the timing marks before removing the old belt is nearly impossible. Get the marks close and carefully move the pulleys. I'd recommend an OEM belt, just because the marks are more accurately placed. Check that the crank pulley is not 'hogged' out. You might face replacing the woodruff key and possibly the crank sprocket if so. Lots of thread about that here. I agree about seals. Be sure to torque the crank bolt to 105 lbs.

Here's what it should loook like:

I cleaned the MAF on mine (no difference, not applicable to yours with MAP). I just ordered NGK plugs and NGK wires from Rockauto, but yours is much newer. Lots of threads here about plugs and wires sensitivity.

That might be enough of a karma "buy-back" to get you through. My 97 Legato is the most stable thing in my life now, and I've got a good job and a great relationship. I actually get a feeling of relief when I get in it. I'm getting it up to the level where I might consider insuring it (for collision) just to cover the loss of companionship. It's easy to love thse cars.

I found my 97 wagon 134k on a suburban Chicago lot asking 3900, paid 3600 total including taxes reg and plates. Dose taxes and reg add up. Good tires, brakes, changed timing belt to be sure, drove it 10k before doing anything, then replaced AC, and am now doing struts.

dupe

I just did a search on this board on "MAF Bogging" and I'm going to try cleaning the MAF with come of that CRC Electronics cleaner tonight.

The complete replacement of the 97 Legacy AC system was successful, running for a week in hot weather. Everything was pretty straightforward and easy, except the evap coil. The only available part did NOT have the correct threaded end to match the original low pressure suction hose. The large aluminum tube is 5/8 diameter. I had to decide whether to replace the hose, or modify the evaporator end. I purchased a Mcmaster Yor-lok (2 compression cones on each end, like a swage-lok) compression fitting 5272K228 for $13 (http://www.mcmaster.com/nav/framewor...ew=2D&size= 2) cut the two ends of the old and new evaporator outlets, cleaned up the ends and connected them. (Large brass double ended connector at middle right side of coil.) It works very well. Note the cut off end to the side of the pic. I had to think about it a week before I cut into a $200 brand new part. I figured it was worth the risk since it should be subject to not much more than 50 psi. When installing the swage-lok, I cleaned up the tube ends, lubed the parts with PAG oil, and crimped it just tight enough to convince me. The aluminum tubes are quite thickwall and somewhat malleable, so combined with the brass it got a good seal. I was worried about the weight a little, but it's not an issue since the connector end is supported when put in the case and the car.

Maybe to clarify: is it 'bucking' or 'bogging' or ??? The Legato bogs down at 2.2k-2.6k rpm and I have been through the same series of fixes you have with no real improvement. I get very good gas mileage 25city-full30highway. I'm thinking now about fuel pressure. A techsheet suggested the fuel filter, which I'll now check/change. If fuel pressure is at the low end of the permissible range, it may cause a lean/ping/knocksensor triggering and retard timing condition. 145k miles on this one.

Thanks. I've never hear the engine knock or ping, but then, I am getting to that age where not hearing has advantages. I will check the fuel filter, like the article says.