uniberp

That's a pretty big resistor, no? Does this mean: if the "Send" wire is disconnected from the gauge, the CT windings will build up and hold a charge? Like a capacitor?

You will have no problem. You'll need metric tools . The only thign that won't come in a standard socket set is the 22mm for the crank pulley. Invest finally in that GOOD torque wrench. Use the clutch/TC inspection hole to lock the crank. I had the best luck doing that. Oh and disconnect the battery. You got airbags in this one.

I've heard of the shunt. With 100+ amps is there any danger of the resistor fusing/shorting and going full current to the gauge and again, burning the wire? I've read about that possibility. I hate messing with the hgh current lines. I like this setup (see the install instruction), but not the instrument (the sensor sold seprately) or the price: http://www.dakotadigital.com/index.cfm/page/ptype=product/product_id=360/category_id=243/home_id=59/mode=prod/prd360.htm I just want a small readout. (one that I can ignore :-\)

I will go along with that first part. There should be a bell. And I have to watch this crazy traffic so closely I am not surprised I missed it. I'm cooled off now, as my GF would say, no longer "wrapped around the axle". Gekko just called back with instructions for reimbursement for the tow, so I may not be out all that towing fee. Put in a new tensioner and serp belt while I was at it. Thanks

Will a Subaru run when the alternator fails, until the battery dies? Will the alternator light, light up? Not driving the Subaru, I got stranded by an failed alternator yesterday. (In my S10). Stupid truck, no dash light that I saw, voltmeter, well I didn't notice. Turned on the air and it died with NOTHING left, hardly enough to run the emergency flashers. Had to get TOWED. <frowny embarassed face> Charged battery, cleaned terminals (not too bad plenty of clean copper), replaced alternator, all fixed. Test stand confirmed dead alternator under load when I returned it for core. ALT light shines merrily in "key on-engine off" position. Volt gauge sits dead on 14v, well, as it always has. It may as well be a dummy gauge. The humiliation makes me seek out a monitoring system (ammeter or "amp meter") . Carrying a spare alternator would proibably be cheaper, but I want INFORMATION. The only "clamp-on" type ammeter I can find is by Dakota Digital, and I won't run fire hazard 8 gauge 100 amp wiring into the cab of any car. Anybody have any other thoughts? (Besides carrying full set of tools and spares in every car. which is what I can do now, after buying the tools to fix the crank pulley on the Forester last weekend.)

I installed a pop-up 14x32 "Newport" SFC sunroof from http://www.sunroofdoctor.com/ and am very happy with it. 3 months, I think. It's been through several downpours while driving and hasn't leaked at all. There are no drains, it's just a 'cut the hole and drop it in' type, but I used an electric metal shear. for the straight cuts. Sabre saws and sawzalls will distort the roof metal, and you want the edge of the hole to be absolutely as flat as possible, so I would recommend a cutoff tool to finish the corners. It has an easy to finish inner trim. You cut the headliner hole about 2" smaller than the metal roof hole, peel back the fabrick, remove 2 more inches of teh fiberglas backer, and tuck the fabric in with the rim strip. I expect it may leak over time, but new rubber seals are available. They have been making these for a while and I suspect it's a decent business. I think the rib mentioned above is not really structural and can be safely removed. It's more of a support to keep the roof from vibrating in the wind. It has to be cut back from underneath to clear the inside frame. I cut it with a pair of tinsnips. Mine is inthe Legacy, but I will look at the Forester also to see if it's the same. It opens with a simple click and shove, and pinch 2 buttons to close. It is entirely removeable, but I haven't done that. I just like the ability to get ventilation with the windows shut to keep out traffic noise.

The reservoir was still brown because the sediment was stirrred up. I think when you first press the brak pedal a little fluid is pushed back into the reservoir from the lines. Unless you have air in the lines, a bleed won't make much difference in brake feel. The pedal bottoming out 'before' indicates that you are at limit of wear of pads, or that the pads are retracting too much, or that your master cylinder is not retracting fully. I suspect that the worn rotors and pads are making the caliper piston extend beyond maximum extension, and that the master cylinder can push enough fluid donw ther ina sngle stroke to lock them up. Sounds like you gained maybe an 1/8th pedal stroke by bleeding. It'll probably al be good whn you get your new pads/rotors.

I drove 200 miles after discovering a wobbly crank pulley and tightening it. It was damaged enough not to properly center after multiple attempts. No other crank pulley was available in Grand Rapids Michigan on a Sunday. Cleaned and blue loctited the bolt and set it home are hard as I dared with a breaker bar. I removed the AC belt altogether, and loosened the other belt enough so it only was tight at the high side of crank pulley, so as to avoid damaging the crank any further. It flopped pretty loosely when teh crank was turned to teh low side, but it didn't slip off. The power steering squawked when a lot I turned the steering wheel, so I dropped a little disptick oil on the belt and it quieted. It turned the alternator sufficiently. No dash light. Drove home with headlight on, but kept it under 65. Ther is a noticeable vibration at idle, but otherwise it ran fine. Checked the bolt once on the way, and it had't moved. Checked the crank when I got home, and it was ok. So it can be done. mpergielelmhurstil99forester97legato 99 forester SOHC 2.5 auto.

That seems to be the bandwagon consensus. Why no TSB?

Looks like inner tire wear is a common problem on thee cars. I wonder what the definitive answer is. http://www.google.com/custom?q=inner+tire+wear&hl=en&oe=ISO-8859-1&client=pub-7433667474612932&cof=FORID:1%3BGL:1%3BS:http://www.nasioc.com%3BL:http://www.nasioc.com/grfx/ubblogo_sm.gif%3BLH:50%3BLW:97%3BLBGC:FFFFFF%3BT:%23105ca8%3BLC:%2322229c%3BVLC:%23f82c70%3BGALT:%23F82C70%3BGFNT:%230000ff%3BGIMP:%230000ff%3BDIV:%23336699%3B&domains=NASIOC.com&sitesearch=NASIOC.com&start=10&sa=N

If you have lowered springs, you may need to have the camber adjusted to compensate. You may have too much negative camber. If the offset is greater than stock, it might need a little less neg camber too, to flatten a probably stiffer the tire on to the pavement. Or you may simply not drive the car as hard as it was designed for, although in 10k miles I'd think it woudln't show, if that were the case.

Makes noise while driving, in gear, or in neutral sitting still? Could be power steering pump; they are whiny. Could be tranny or torque convertor. Could be any number of things. Idler pulleys, belts, water pump Any leaks, telltale stains, bad instrument readings, performance problems? The sound that comes from "the transmission area: Is that while you are driving, and you hear it through the firewall? That is a nearly impossible way to locate a noise.

I don't know what your problem is... ...however, you cannot properly charge an AC system without some expensive equipment, namely first off a high quality vacuum pump. The system must be evacuated as completely as possible before charging with refrigerant and oil. Simply adding refrigerant to a system that has atmospheric moisture will not give you an adequately working system. Plus, the mixture of the moisture from the air and the refrigerant will create an acidic mixture that wille at away your compressor seals. It is ususally not worth it for a person to invest in the vacuum pump, the gauges, the fittings, for a one time recharge, plus there is a big learning curve to doing it well. It's best if you take it to a shop. They will charge $50-$100 for a evac-recharge, and point out any leaks you may need to fix. There are many threads here about Subaru AC.

If you got 94k miles from one set of rotors you are way ahead. It is my opinion that 90% of all "warped" rotor problems are caused by uneven pad deposition on the rotor surface. http://www.stoptech.com/tech_info/wp_warped_brakedisk.shtml Of course, resurfacing or replacement corrects both conditions. It's still the rotor.

All wrong. I am an amateur idiot. Explanation follows. The bogging returned after a few days. Here's my hypothesis and experiment. The battery was disconnected while the o2 sensor was being replaced. This reset the ECM to default, ignoring the knock sensor input. After a few days, hot weather, AC on, knock sensor resignals and ECM goes into ignition retard mode (how appropriate, same mode as where I spend lots of time myself, evidently). I bypassed the knock sensor with a 470k ohm resistor (nearest single resistor to recommended 510k ohm I could find. I will review my resistors in series lessons.). Bogging down at 2000-2500 ceased. Car ran better on the way back from the RadioShack at lunch. I found several threads that referenced a Subaru TSB, and something about an "enhanced" ECM. I ordered a new knock sensor, because I LOVE throwing hardware at the problem, but I think this might REALLY be it THIS TIME. Bottom of this thread: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=880 I apologize, this is the first OBDII car I have really been able to tinker with. And tinker I do.

I notice it in the 99 Forester L. Thanks for the tip. I will check for a TSB.

I get a little random feedback through the steering wheel. I suspected a worn rack, or possibly tie rod ends, but then I came acroos this. Anybody know what he's referring to in the answer? I left my shrowds off, temnporarily. From: http://en.allexperts.com/q/Subaru-Repair-831/Subaru-power-steering.htm "Subject: Subaru power steering Question Hi - I recently had my 2001 Legacy wagon in for timing belt and other belt repair. We picked up the car Friday night after the shop closed and the power steering didn't work very well; the pump was making groaning noises though the fluid was well within range. The shop says the pump is gone and the timing of it coincidental. I'm skeptical. The pump and steering were fine before we brought the car in and it suffered a total failure all at once?! Is this possible? The fact that it looks to be impossible to get to the timing belt without removing the Power Steering Belt (or maybe the pump itself?) adds to my skepticism. Your thoughts appreciated. Joe Answer The shop is wrong, I have seen this so many times if i had a nickel for every time I saw it i would be very well off.It is going to be hard to describe but what is happening is air is being sucked in as a result of improper belt shroud installation. if you want to call me at the shop I can pin point the fix for you over the phone. Justin All Wheel Drive Auto 425 828 3600"

Thanks. I learned through trial and error how to prevent a press from binding up when inserting a bearing, by keeping a close eye on alignment and keeping a 'feel' on the pressure. About the struts, is there any advantage of doing them right on the car, (or is it even possible?) without removing the upper mount? Does that save any time or effort, or keep from having to do an alignment? Seems like it might at least in some way, having a more solid purchase for the whole assembly. Think it's possible to use a ball joint c-press to push the bearings out and in? I have one of these: http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/photos/38300-38399/38335.gif which I have used for a variety of purposes: replacing a-arm bushings and ball joints on Volvos.

That's a 4 year old car that has had 4 sets of tires? IMO that my be the equivalent of 160,000 miles of chassis stress as well. IDK if the cracked windshield is also a result of that, but this doesn't really sound like a well-cared for car. I never see cars that have well cared-for engines and abused chasses, except for those used in competition. I also don't think a lien means an outstanding balance on a loan. I think it means a dispute. A 53k mile car should appear practically new.

Now that the Legato AC and drivability issues are solved, onto the drivetrain. I orderd the struts. I would like to change the rear wheel bearings (especially rear), since they seem loud, and front ball joints, since I've done that before and will be in there. Does it make sense to do all this at once? Can I do the rear bearings with a simple straight press when the knuckle is off? thanks in advance mpergiel97legatoawd99foresterl

Something to do with the hill-holder clutch, maybe? http://www.drive.subaru.com/Spr03_HillHolder.htm There is a level sensitive sensor involved. If the brakes are somewhat locked, the clutch may smoke a little. Maybe yours is the one particular combination of events that got past the engineers.

I thought it was interesting, that on that label somewhere it says "linseed husk", I believe.

I would say about $200-$250. There are autoglass shops all over (in cities), and some will even have on-site service.

Maybe because of proximity to battery electrolyte vapor?

Is the first part of replacing heads removal of manifolds? Could a leakdown test be done at that stage by blocking the intake and exhaust ports? If a dual port head, that is?