uniberp

Japanese carmakers calibrate their impact wrenches every day. That's what makes them different from a tire shop where the kid likes the sound of a impact wrench banging an unlubricated lug nut home at 200 ft lbs. That's what broke your lugs off. Thanks for reminding me. I have to retorque the truck wheels which I had rotated.

IMO, most cases of rotor "warp" are actually caused by uneven pad deposition due to standing on very hot stopped brakes. Nobody said "turning rotors (or installing new rotors) is important when installing brake pads." IMO, again, it is important. And I have heard many people tell me turing NEW rotors is important. I disagree. I have yet to see a brake lathe with the same tolerances as a manufacturing lathe.

It's not my imagination. It is definitely shifting better, that 1-2 shift happens correctly with no bang or flare (although I haven't tried it in very cold weather), and there is no lagging flat spot at 2300 rpm. It's hits 4th earlier and stays there unless I WANT it to downshift. The only problem is now I expect my gas mileage will suffer, because I have a much snappier car, and the confidence to move more aggressively in traffic. And yes, yes, antisieze. If it came in 5 gallon buckets I'd still always be out of it.

double

It is probably just that time, that the pressure level dropped below the sensor threshold. On the receiver/drier there is an electrical connection, if you hav a diagram you can probably jump it to test. The AC machines that recharge systems are pretty common, I would think most full service independent shops might have one. You shouldn't pay >$75 to have it recharged. I wouldn't recharge it myself. I just finished a complete replacement of my AC, did the component work myself, but had a shop evacuate the system and recharge it. As to the accidental disconnect, it's possible, there are 2 connectors to the evap box under the right side of the glovebox, but they are pretty well hidden, and you will scrape up your hand reaching them, so be careful.

(ED UBrp> ALL WRONG. It was knock sensor, I am pretty sure. See bottom of thread - 3rd Uniberp post from 7/9/07..) The Legato at 145k got new liveliness when I installed an O2 sensor, an off-the-shelf Walker part $75. After all the worry about adjusting the tranny, having it flushed, etc, then reading the thread about "How many miles on your EAT?" and all the fuss about OEM O2 sensors, etc., No CEL light, no OBD2 codes, just passed Illinois mandatory emissions testing, nothing to directly indicate any problem. (Emissions test was conducted it idle, through the OBD2 connector only.) I decided to make a bet on it. (ed. Lost that bet) It fixed all the balky shifting, the hesitation, the apparent 'bind-up'. The car runs 100% better. I mentioned it to a guy I work with who was a tank mechanic. He said "Yep, those are maintenance items. Should be changed every 50k miles." I don't even mind having bought 2 wrong tools to do the job. A normal 02 sensor socket will not fit, and once I got my 22 box-end in there blindly, working from behind the front wheel, and die-grinded the rusted bolts off the catalytic convertor heat shield, it slipped below the bolt faces and felt loose, so I though it must be 21, and bought a bee-eeeutiful 19-21 combo flare nut wrench from Sears (my reward for a job done myself). Of course that didn't fit, so once I undid the wiring and fished the pigtail through the wrench and worked at it from the front, the sensor loosened easily and was replaced in 5 minutes. The correct tool seems to be the offset short sensor socket, which probably allows you to NOT remove the heat shield. But then, you wouldnt have 6 (5?) shiny new stainless nuts and bolts holding your heatshield on, like I do on mine. So, my new mission and standard response to all driveability problems will be "Change your O2 sensor." just like my standard response to handling questions is "Change your ball joints." mpergielelmhurstil97legato99foretier

If you burn up a Subaru at 100k, you will burn up any other AWD car a lot sooner.

I think this quite a different animal than simple "punch out the old races and hammer in the new", as with double 2 piece roller bearings. The bearing needs to be pressed in an out with a press, either with the entire knucle off the car or as stated above, with the special 'hub-tamer' ($$$), while on the car. It is critical that NO pressure be applied to the inner race, of course. For the rear, I think it is easier, no balljoint to remove. There MUST be complete threads devoted to the entire procedure. Myself, I'm waiting until I move to the new place before I buy a small press to handle just such jobs.

car-part.com. Seems like Elgin Super always has a couple. There are so many BS artists in Chicago I would be wary of the shop's opinion, however.

I've never seen inside the valve covers, but be sure you are seeing the valve itself actuate and not just the rocker or cam moving? It's hard (4me) to imagine absolute zero compression unless there is a stuck open valve, a holed piston or a busted off rod. Even with shattered rings you would get some pressure reading, I think.

Failed idler pulley, or failed tensioner. Maybe dreaded keyway wear, but doubtful. The fact that it restarted at all indicates only a slip. Which is not good if DOHC, but possibly surviveable.

So what was the name of this "special injector machine" that fried your injectors? Did it run 12v to them or something?

Then it may not be serious. There was not a complete history in the link, from what I saw. If they replace the headgaskets, the timing belt should have been checked out, but it may have slipped. Hard to say what else would make scary noises after a car has had major service. If it had any oil on the dipstick, that's probably not the problem.

IMO, a little residual oil in the coolant won't hurt anything. Coolant in the oil is another story, not a good one. Unless there is metal or amounts of other solids in there it is not essential, IMO. The reservoir is easy to remove 2 screws on top and rubber grommet pops out on the bottom.

Any overheat, or didn't he notice? Does he know enough not to tow on 2 wheels?

Did you tell the guy you delivered the car to that story? Or did you say "Nope, no problems at all. Ran like a champ."

Oooops, that's what I meant. HNBR. The green ones.

The PS pump takes a surprising amount of fluid. If it's leaking you will see a puddle on top of the right side cylinders. Mine leaks a little, and I bought a rebuild kit from the dealer for $8, and will install it someday for kicks. Also, my experience with bad ball joints and power steering says: "Check your ball joints."

Exactly. But note, Fiat 4 door SEDANS only, a 128, not a 124, unless it is a sedan or TC. Still junk, but weird enough to want. AC stuff was just posted.

The complete replacement of the 97 Legacy AC system was successful, running for a week in hot weather. Everything was pretty straightforward and easy, except the evap coil. The only available part did NOT have the correct threaded end to match the original low pressure suction hose. The large aluminum tube is 5/8 diameter. I had to decide whether to replace the hose, or modify the evaporator end. I purchased a Mcmaster Yor-lok (2 compression cones on each end, like a swage-lok) compression fitting 5272K228 for $13 (http://www.mcmaster.com/nav/framewor...ew=2D&size= 2) cut the two ends of the old and new evaporator outlets, cleaned up the ends and connected them. It works very well. Note the cut off end to the side of the pic. I had to think about it a week before I cut into a $200 brand new part. I figured it was worth the risk since it should be subject to not much more thatn 50 psi. When installing the swage-lok, I cleaned up the tube ends, lubed the parts with PAG oil, and crimped it just tight enough to convince me. The aluminum tubes are quite thickwall and somewhat malleable, so combined with the brass it got a good seal. I was worried about the weight a little, but it's not an issue since the connector end is supporte when put in the case and the car. The large aluminum tube had to be bent a little, but I avoided bending near the welds or existing turns. It had to be extended a little to stick out far enough through the firewall. This is a zexel system, all parts except evap from rockauto, evap from partsbin. Odd thing was that no single source could supply everything. Maybe that is smart of them, since they woudl get a lot of returns because the stuff wouldn't fit without fixes like this one. Removing and replacing the evap is a piece of cake, compared to say a Chev. I used an AC shop to diagnose the system originally, discharge, and then evacuate and recharge the new system. An added bonus, the new receiver has a sightglass. R134 behaves differently there than R12, kind of foamy when running. It blows frigid. Well worth the effort. On to the O2 sensor and then the struts! After I paint the living room.

'Tots. A 96 is barely over 10 years old. The only reason, IMO, to get rid of a car (a good one that is) is if the unibody is compromised, by either rust or damage. My GF disagrees, but our deal was that if she got the Forester, I could drive whatever I wanted, although she woudl not be required to ride in it. Looking for a Fiat128, myself, for a toy. I have sold cars within the old Volvo enthusiast community, and was pleased to see it go to a good home. Even if you buy a new car, why get rid of it? Carry minimum insurance, and use it to save putting miles on your new car. I just did front-to-back AC all new parts for about $900 myself (including $150 shop discharge, evac and charge). I'll be posting that proc soon.

I never saw such a story in my life. Except maybe when I locked my keys in the car. With it running. And in gear. Pointed downhill.

I just bought a cheap ($10)kit for HF, the green rings are what you want. XXXX I think WRONG. I mean HNBR. I saw them at AZ too. The green ones. The trick to setting orings is to lubricate them (with pag oil) and NOT stretch them to fit. Snug is ok. More than 1.5mm gap isn't good. You don't want to roll them on. On the HP line, they fit into only a chamfer on the lip of the receiver and condensor. Use new long capscrews with the formed washer base. Got mine from the bins at Ace. I used a tiny amount of antisieze on the screw, don't want to get that on the oring. You are tightening them into aluminum, so be careful not to overtighten them.

Yeah, but I'm getting the new clam-clamp type compressor now. Maybe 2. Anybody ever replace tie-rod ends, ball joints, or other bits at the same time? (Since I will probably cave in for an alignment, due to the height change.)

Thank you all very much. Right, wrong link. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/KYB-GR-2-GR2-STRUTS-SHOCKS-SUBARU-LEGACY-OUTBACK-95-99_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ33590QQihZ006QQitemZ160129522534 Done bought and done.