uniberp

In My Opinion, (to be clear), pad deposit is the biggest cause of the "warpage" feeling in the brake pedal, and again IMO, is caused primarily by drivers standing on hot brakes in traffic. If they left a little following room, and actually crept forward a little when they arrived at the stopped line of traffic, the pad woudl deposit more evenly. The other main factor is tires. Tires that are driven hard go out of round and tilt against their rolling diameter. In short, IMO, people who drive hard and poorly wreck their gear. But then again, today I am cranky.

Thanks, I'll start with auto glass shops.

I want to add a pop-up sunroof to the 'Legato', so I can keep my windows shut in traffic and still have ventilation. Any recommendations for manufactureres and or installers in west suburban Chicago? Seem like something the accessory shops would do pretty inexpensively, and would know how to refit the headliner so it doesn't look like a total paste job. Thanks. mpergielelmhurstil97legautowagon99foresterL

I'm sure he means "forged" pistons.

14's of the same outside diameter and width are cheaper, give a better ride and actually better grip both forward and sidways, due to the increased sidewall giving the tread a better spread on the ground. And 14's are 'way cheaper. I cannot think of a reason to go to 15's, except possibly a few ounces of weight. Under very hard use they may be more stable, with less sidewall to deflect. At least that's what I've heard and believe. :-p

Maybe rotate the tires immediately to see if that changes the shake at all. It'll help isolate the problem. I would live with it a week or so to see if it's going to live. By then you can check oil consumption, antifreeze consumption, battery life. Get tires balanced, or replaced if worn. Go over the brakes. Maybe the tone pickups are plugged. See at that point. A "top" clutch sounds like to be too tight a cable. Maybe over adjusted to compensate for something. Then you got a driver, or not. The rest of the stuff you can live with for a while.

Hard tires are easier to turn. May still be PS pump.

If compression is lower, by say 10%, wouldn't vacuum be lower? I never checked compression on my 2 (97 2.2 and 99 2.5PII), so IDK about degrade rates.

I'm way late into this, but did anyone mention that older engines pull less vacuum? Qeustion: does an engine pull less vacuum at didel in extereme extreme cold temps due to increased air density?

Any problem with replacing just 1 headgasket? I can't think of any. Does the problem get progressively worse and how quickly, if so? Seems to me leaks have a way of getting worse too rapdily.

OK we love the car. I don't want her to worry about it. External coolant leak. 110k miles. Maybe using a little oil. Since pulling the engine seems to be the preferred method when swapping headgaskets, I'm thinking new CCR engine and having it done in one day, and being done with it. New engine have better performance, quieter, better mileage? Other thoughts?

Yep, I agree. 1997 Legautowagon2.2 145k miles. Seems to take a while. Last 1/4 inch on the temp slide control makes a lot of difference. Temp needle never, ever above halfway. Never moves at all, once warmed up. I keep meaning to check under the dash to see if the air diverter flap is fully closing, but I like the fact that it runs cool. Little aluminum engine, high miles, bearing tolerances open up a bit, less friction than new. I can live with it.

I like these numbers. Real world constants. I wonder how the evolution of the automobile was directed by a balance of these 2 factors. Cars with excess drivetrain resistance relative to windspeed rattled and twisted themselves into pieces. Cars with bad wind resistance made the drivetrain work harder, again wrecking things. Apparently the optimum balance point is somewhere the Subaru side of average cars. That and they keep you awake at the wheel with the excess noise, avoiding wrecks.

I use a variable speed grinder at slow speed with a 8 inch polishing pad and polishing /rubbing compound. If you go too fast or stay in one spot you will melt the plastic.

The engine doesn't rev out between at the cold 1/2 shift, but then again, I don't step hard on the gas in any cold car, ever. It would be a hard shift if I was stepping on it, but I need to preserve my machinery. Fluids are all full, clear and bright. My worry was put to rest. Sounds pretty typical for s Soob.

Well, it does provide shelter from wind and rain. That's worth something.

I add to the chorus of engine suspicion, not tranny. Small pulse loads for misfiring can 'stimulate' the tranny into engaging. Ignition first, then fuel.

Seems to be only the first and second 1/2 shifts. The first on my street, and the second after the first stop sign @ <200 yards. After that it seems to have woken up completely. Thanks.

In the frosty morning air, the 97 legautoAWD has a soft 1/2 shift, hesitation before engaging 2nd, with a bit of a rev if I am on the gas. New fluids all around. Else?

It's worth what someone will pay. Sniping is common on ebay. Don't get sucked in. I would try http://www.car-part.com

Did anybody mention that the belt may be mismarked? I would hate to open my timing covers and see that. What brand belt? I used a Cloyes. It lined up fine.

It's in my neck of the woods, and looks pretty clean. A little rear well rust, probably. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1991-SUBARU-LOYALE-4WD-WAGON-FOUR-WHEEL-DRIVE-NO-RES_W0QQitemZ220069488215

I'm wondering if it's one of the differentials binding (or both, alternately). How you'd go about checking that I have no idea other than removal and checking for any lash.

Yes, but I think the 97 2.2 is interference due to different heads, cams.

Just run another 6-8' length of lighter rope through the eye and knot the other end to some part of the car when you're going to snap someone out of the ditch. It will serve as a safety line and keep any loose end from launching. I think they call it a "spring line". Nah that's a nautical term. Feeding the line back through the loop will only work on one end of the line anyhow. You need a hook on at least one end.