uniberp

FWIW, Larger tires will make your APPARENT gas mileage decrease, but they also lower your speedometer and odometer readings.With judicious throttle, you can improve gas mileage only very slightly while keeping the same (as original size) speed. Too large a tire can cause snow/ice buildup between wheel well and tire.

Notice that no other cars in that line even tried to get out.

Maybe it's from the evaporative canister, that purges excess gas vapor from the tank into the intake. Most cars have some setup liek that. I dunno if it connects there on the turbo, but usually it's between the intake and head.

Is it normal for the idle at cold to smell really rich? 97 leg 2.2 autoawd I mean really, I caught whiff of it in the back hall this morning before leaving the house. Could be the catalytic convertor failing at 140k miles, but no CEL yet. I get good mileage, 30hiway 25city, so I assume it's running well, no strange noises or shakes. Anybody make any changes to affect that?

Can you expand on that 2nd equation a bit? I don't think any given car has 100x the drive train drag at 21mph that it does at 4.7mph. Seems to me 99% of the difference between 65 and 80 is eaten up by air drag, plus the designed operating speed range of the car. Could it be that drivetrain losses are directly proportional to 1x drivetrain speed?

Thought I should bump this, because the other thread about the same topic was bumped too. Maybe both of htese should be deleted and a sticky added when it gets figured out.

So all this is nonsense? I don't think so. With that size cable, and maybe one more back from the mainfold back to the frame, will stabilize any potential ground loop. Are you saying it affected your tranny?

Ooh I like this type of question. Brings out all the amateur physicists. I assume by efficient you mean best gas mileage. Here's 2 answers that I hope will tweak some conversation. 1. The speed at which the car just shifts into top (4th) gear and maintains that speed without downshifting will give you the best gas mileage. Usually this is around 43-48 mph, depending on how hard you accelerate. 2. The car is 99.99 percent efficienct at 0 mph. Sitting, just evaporating a little gas and oil.

Your 'amps' have capacitors to handle spiky power needs. They need time to discharge. See the 'amp' spec or manual.

Correct, the 1 second signal is to bring the system up to pressure for starting.

These are twin-tube Bilsteins, not the HD type. I like the TC's for normal non-stressed commuting and long distance travelling. Bilstein only makes front struts for the legacy. I wonder what they are thinking. What would make a good match for the rear? Surely not monroe's, although some have said they are fine. I doubt I would want a stiffer shock on the rear of a car with weight and power distribution toward the front like the legacy. I don't want it pitchpoling over bumps.

Yes, you are being too picky. However the best solution for rust, IMO, is sandblasting then treatment with a POR-15 type product. What people don't seem to have yet learned about rust is that the visible rust is just the surface. Steel is a porous material, and oxidation occurs quite far into the metal. If you are interested in detailed metallurgy, start with the term 'passivating', you will learn quite a bit. Sandblasting give quite good results, if you have to proper setup (lots of airpressure and volume and room to work), and wastes less steel than grinding. The little hand-held sandblaster guns work well for the price, but for any large piece, it pays to have it done by a real sandblasting shop. Any time I spot treat a rust spot, my normal procedure is sandblast, then treat with POR, then fill,sand, and finish.

New radiator.

You get what you pay for, one way or another.

Did you try seafoam? Maybe your rings are glued into the piston in that one cylinder from not running. Why did that valve burn? is my next question. The other cylinder looks fine. Valves will burn if the the seat recedes and allows gases past the valve head. If the valves are set too tight it can cause the same condition. That's why I like subies and airheads. If you can hear the valves it's probably okay. If the valve was sticking that would burn it too. I don''t see how a burnt valve would affect rings, but you said you ran it on 3 cylinders for a while, so maybe the rings are just gummed up in that one cylinder? At that rate of oil consumption, it seems it would have been occuring previously.

If you really want to get into it, it would require sampling the size, hardness and distribution of particles from what was captured in a filter to determine it's effectiveness. IOW, one large rock would do far more damage than an equal mass of dust. IMO. Additionally, restriction of the air intake will result in compensating vacuum pulls from the crankcase, valve stems, etc., and alterations of the mix, although still within acceptable ECU parameters. That may create additional solid residue which then has to be dealt with.

http://www.edmunds.com gives more realistic prices IMO. Anyhow, 'way too much.

Call it a 'hosel' or 'ferrule' and see what kind of face the parts counter guy makes.

If it flickers on at idle, it's probably low pressure due probably to worn bearings. If it flashes on at speed, it's probably an electrical connection.

You might look in to a fluorescent dye. I dunno if Napa carries one, but you need a black light. http://www.tracerline.com/faq.html

See this test: http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/airfilter/airtest1.htm I use premium oil filters, but oem paper air filters.

The canister is likely a pressure accumulator, to buffer fuel pressure more evenly and to maintain resting pressure for easier starting when the engine is off.

I think the main issue woudl be side clearance, but it would only take you an hour or two to try it out. Forester is Impreza width. mpergielelmhurstil97legacy99forester

:-\ I hate to tell you but I think it's rings. New heads on an old engine often cause this problem. My experience with subarus is limited, but the principle still applies. The new valves create more vacuum in the cylinder and that is pulling oil up past the worn rings into the cylinder. mpergielelmhurstil97legacy99forester

I just got a 97 Legacy 2.2 awd wagon. Plain Jane, not a mark on it. As low-key as I could find, even has a Viper remote start. Love it. I see Bilstein makes a strut for it, A "TC" (Touring Class). For the front only. What would be a good match for the rear? Looks like the gr-2 is the only other aftermarket choice around $100. The other choice is the KYB GR-2 for the Legacy Outback, which I understand will raise the stance a little more than one inch, and is a straight swap. That appeals too. The Bilsteins are over $125 each. I've always had Bilsteins, and TC's as well, on other cars. Also, could I fit a single 'plus 1' oversize tire in the wheel well with the stock height shocks? Mpergielelmhurstil97Legacy99Forester Sharing of any experieces with the Bilsteins would be appreciated.