unibrook

When was your front O2 sensor last replaced? Does the misfire only occur when engine warm, not when cold? If so, suspect your front O2 sensor.

Change your front 02 sensor. The fact that the symptom only occurs when warm.......points directly to this.

When is the last time your front 02 sensor was changed? Does the symptom only occur when the engine is warm? If so, this points to the front oxygen sensor needing replacement. My 2001 Forester seems to need a new one every 40k miles.

When is the last time your front 02 sensor was replaced? Does symptom only appear when engine is warm? If so, that is another pointer towards front 02 sensor.

Here are my thoughts and tips on the project to help the next guy: 1. 36mm socket for the axle nut. And that gets tourqued to 145 ft/lbs. 2. Have a source available for a new tie rod castle nut and cotter pins, if very corroded. 3. The bearing housing lip is in the center of the housing, between the two bearings, where the bearing spacer resides. No circlips anywhere, to either side. 4. There are 2 seals. One towards the engine, and one towards the wheel. If you remove them carefully with a large screwdriver, you can probably reuse them. The flat side of the seals face the bearings. 5. Slide hammer with reversible jaws would probably take out old bearings the easiest. Or you can tap them out with a large punch and hammer. Our original NSK bearings had exposed ball bearings...no seals on the sides. 6. Hub Tamer needs a 7/8" socket and a 1" wrench to use. It works well for this project. 7. The old inner bearing is removed towards the engine. The old outer bearing is removed towards the wheel. 8. A small punch would be handy to have in order to puch out remnants of old corroded cotter pins from ball joints. 9. DO YOURSELF A FAVOR...be sure to DRY FIT the new bearings onto your axle before you install the new bearings. Our axle had been replaced years ago at a Subaru Dealership. The new bearings could not slide past the axle portion just inside of the splines. No idea why. But we had to grind down the axle just a tiny bit there with emery cloth to get the inner races to fit over the axle. 10. DO NOT FORGET to reinstall the bearing SPACER after installing your first new bearing....before installing the second new bearing.

Thx for the tips! Will try that!

Front 02 sensor perhaps? Does it buck only when warm?

Hi Shawn, aren't these bearings pre-greased and pre-sealed? Or is it some other seal you are talking about?

Make sure any new scanner you buy can do all of these: 1. Read multiple codes. 2. Clear off the codes. 3. Tell you when the car is Emissions Ready for state inspections......this really comes in handy if you battle the random PO420 code. My scanner is the: Innova Equus 3100. I think it cost me $80 at Auto Zone. And I love it. http://www.ebay.com/itm/INNOVA-Equus-3100-CanOBD2-Diagnostic-Tool-/140998687534?pt=Motors_Automotive_Tools&hash=item20d42d3b2e&vxp=mtr

Does anyone know how to transfer a parking sticker from the old quarter glass to a new one? Can it be done?

Perfect info, thanks!! This Board rox!! Our 1982 GL Wagon WILL NEVER DIE !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Are these the right ones? Do I need 2 per side? http://www.autopartswarehouse.com/details/QQSubaruQQGLQQNTNQQWheel_BearingQQ19721989QQW0133-1633822.html Any better ones? or other comments? thx!

If it runs normal temp on hwy, but only overheats when stuck in slow traffic........then it is your rad fan system. Either the fans themselves, or a switch or wire, or the thermo failing.

This looks like it will work well enough: http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1917942

Send the lazy one fishing!

Can anyone feed me the step by step instrux on the RnR of the rear wheel bearing knuckle? thx, nwlovell at yahoo

yep, ANTI-SEIZE EVERYTHING!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Email me if you want my step-by-step guide on how to replace your rear wheel bearing with the Hub Shark (HF style) tool kit. The lateral link bolt is the potential show-stopper. But I have a solution for that puppy. nwlovell at yahoo.

Email me if you want my step-by-step guide on how to replace your rear wheel bearing with the Hub Shark (HF style) tool kit. The lateral link bolt is the potential show-stopper. But I have a solution for that puppy. nwlovell at yahoo.

Email me if you want my step-by-step guide on how to replace your rear wheel bearing with the Hub Shark (HF style) tool kit. The lateral link bolt is the potential show-stopper. But I have a solution for that puppy. nwlovell at yahoo.

Years late for your car, but the key clue is that the binding only happens when the car is WARM. Therefore it is a fluid problem. First try at a fix: Replace your front differential fluid. I used 3.5 quarts of Lucas Synthetic gear oil. That worked on my 2001 Forester with manual transmission. 2 years ago, and no problems since.

Deliciously understated......."remove...the long bolt first. Again, if it's frozen, move on." yes indeed, that lateral link bolt can be a real show-stopper. you can use a propane torch to melt off the lip of one of the bushings then pound out the entire frozen bolt/bushing as one piece. Or use a Sawzall to cut the bolt. But yes, "move on" is the best advice. Also, for axle nuts. I haven't found one yet that could resist the leverage provided by my .5" breaker bar with a 6' iron bar slid over on top of it. Don't bother with a 3/8" breaker bar.....those will snap like a toothpick.

Just adding this to a bunch of PO420 threads to help future Searchers: Just a couple of data points to toss in for those suffering the occasional PO420 CEL. My car is a 2001 Forest with 120k miles on her....yes, she is a Lesbaru. My CEL PO420 has been coming on about thrice per year lately. I plug in my CEL Scanner and erase the code and drive on my merry way. Since we do limited, mostly city driving, it can take a while for Emissions Test Ready reset cycle to complete.....so you can pass inspection. This month, it took about 189 miles and nearly 3 weeks of driving to get the pending PO420 to turn off and the Emissions Ready Green Light to appear in my CEL Code Scanner. Then it passed inspection no problem.

Just adding this to a bunch of PO420 threads to help future Searchers: Just a couple of data points to toss in for those suffering the occasional PO420 CEL. My car is a 2001 Forest with 120k miles on her....yes, she is a Lesbaru. My CEL PO420 has been coming on about thrice per year lately. I plug in my CEL Scanner and erase the code and drive on my merry way. Since we do limited, mostly city driving, it can take a while for Emissions Test Ready reset cycle to complete.....so you can pass inspection. This month, it took about 189 miles and nearly 3 weeks of driving to get the pending PO420 to turn off and the Emissions Ready Green Light to appear in my CEL Code Scanner. Then it passed inspection no problem.

I'll just add this since my experience is recent: Just a couple of data points to toss in for those suffering the occasional PO420 CEL. My car is a 2001 Forest with 120k miles on her....yes, she is a Lesbaru. My CEL PO420 has been coming on about thrice per year lately. I plug in my CEL Scanner and erase the code and drive on my merry way. Since we do limited, mostly city driving, it can take a while for Emissions Test Ready reset cycle to complete.....so you can pass inspection. This month, it took about 189 miles and nearly 3 weeks of driving to get the pending PO420 to turn off and the Emissions Ready Green Light to appear in my CEL Code Scanner. Then it passed inspection no problem.