unibrook
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Posts posted by unibrook
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Is that pin really nessessary? I mean it's a splined shaft and even if the axle nut came off, the axle can't go anywhere. ...
When I replaced my pass.front axle, I couldn't get the roll pin back in there to save my life. So I just used a big cotter pin. Works just fine.
Yeh, me and my Lesbaru...........we're ghetto like dat!
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If you were in a bind to get it fixed right quick you could get those crappy boots that don't need to axle to come off to replace. They have a seam that glues together and you just put it around the axle...
On my last legacy I had a completely torn outer boot. I drove 20k miles on it all winter. Through mud puddles, salty roads, stuffed it in snow banks. And that axle never made a peep. You'll be fine for a few days...
Echo this. I drove a whole Boston winter with a shot boot....no problemo. My driver's side inner boot is cracked now, probably been that way for months....still no sound coming from it. I might get around to replacing that axle sometime this summer.
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I used the Hub Tamer on my 2001 Forester rear bearing. Worked well enough. Another post on here said the Harbor Freight tool works just as well and is much cheaper, so you could try that route.
The lateral link bolt is either frozen welded to the bushing or it isn't. If it is, just melt the bushing out with a propane torch in 5 minutes....not hard to do. But you need to have a new bolt and bushings ready to replace, of course. I can email you step by step instrux if you want them. nwlovell at yhoo.
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My 2001 Forester with 106k on her loses about a quart per 1000 miles. Same way, no drips in driveway, can't see any smoke. But I think if General Chaos is correct, that explains it. That amount of oil can burn off without seeing it in the exhaust. I will go with that.
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If you haven't replaced your front 02 sensor in the last 40k miles, try that.
Worked for me.
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Here is what my bad bearing sounded like:
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I chased a misfire for about a year before I finally replaced my front 02 sensor....it was the cure.
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From a diff site:
>> Find the EGR valve (drivers side of the engine, on the back of the intake manifold, near the top) and the BPT is just in front of the EGR valve. The EGR valve also has a metal tube that disappears down the back of the engine to the exhaust port on the #4 cylinder.
Start replacing all the rubber hoses associated with those 2 main parts...>
Have you already done this?
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Did you get this resolved?
My guess is you need to replace the front 02 sensor....if it hasn't been done in the last 40k miles.
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Glad to hear that worked. Thanks for posting back here with your fix. That should help the next person.
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That is a $500 car to me. jmho.
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I have a 2001 Forester with 106k on it. My front 02 sensor has been crapping out every 40k miles. Mostly city driving. Just fyi.
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Unplugging the front 02 sensor would not affect the engine idle....I don't think. A bad front 02 sensor will show up most when the engine is under load. If it hasn't been replaced in the last 40k miles, I would replace it.
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If it only misfires when warm, not cold, and if you have not replaced your front 02 sensor in the last 40k miles....then try replacing it.
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I go to Chicken and Shakes. They will do anything and everything for an amazing price. They will weld patches into your exhaust for around $60.
Their info:
http://www.yelp.com/biz/chicken-and-shakes-automotive-somerville
Bingo! Mr. Shakes was great. Fit me in at lunch while I waited. $60 well spent. THx for the lead.
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bstone....which muffler shop did you use in Boston? I need one. Thx nwlovell @ yahoo.
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That's a definite clue!
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Well, I put on the split flanges, and it does pull the two pipes together and hold them solidly in place, but it still leaks....so off to the muffler shop I go to have them cut and weld.
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OK, hub-tamer-ites, a question-
How many tons of force is a hub tamer capable of applying?
I replaced a front bearing on my '03 and my 12T press was just about maxxed-out pressing out the old outer races.
If you have a lot of shim stock, old bearings and gears and pipe laying around it's fairly easy to get the knuckle straight in the press and not mess it up, but if you were sloppy I could see how you could put it out-of-round.
Dave
In fact, my rear wheel bearing outer race was so tight, the Hub Tamer could not press it out before it began to deform the knuckle...so I stopped. I rented a slide hammer from AutoZone to yank/pound out the outer race. That was the toughest part of the job. I was SLAMMING that bear.
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Ok, good to know that isn't the source of my oil loss. Thx for the clarification.
Good post.
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That is interesting. Especially since my 2001 Forester with 106k is suddenly using a quart of oil every 2 months....and my timing belt is due to be changed now anyway. I will definitely be checking out that oil pump and the plate and bolts while I am in there! Thanks for the post!
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Replace them when they go bad. They will howl like a banshee when they need to be replaced. PM me if you want a step by step guide on using a HubTamer to replace the bearing.
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That is great that you folks get such reasonable pricing for your exhaust cut & weld service down there. Something tells me up here in Taxholechewschitz, I would be paying much more for the same service. So, yes, I have to order 2 sets of those split flanges and buy 2 bolts to connect them, but that will total right about $40 (Amazon had a good price). Worth a try. If I can't get it tight enough to pass inspection, then I will farm it out to the muffler shop.
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I will be trying out the Walker split flange on my 2001 Forester this weekend...106k miles and original exhaust. Not bad for life in New England. I was amazed to look under there and see that the muffler/tailpipe still looks in decent shape....as does the center/resonator pipe. Only the flange that connects them and its bolts have rusted away.
CEL for knock sensor. advice?
in 1990 to Present Legacy, Impreza, Outback, Forester, Baja, WRX&WrxSTI, SVX
Posted · Edited by unibrook
2001 Forester 107k miles.
A month ago, my knock sensor began to throw that CEL off and on for a few weeks. Now it is on steady. I pulled the sensor to see if obviously cracked in the housing or if the mating surfaces of the engine vs the sensor were corroded....no to both. So, since I am getting no drivablility symptoms, I am guessing it is the sensor insides which are dying. I will pull it one more time to try to improve the connector contacts, but if that fails, then I will buy a new one and replace it. 12mm socket with two extenders beneath the throttle cables. I needed a breaker bar to loosen that retainer bolt.