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FSRBIKER

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Posts posted by FSRBIKER

  1. I'm not sure I understand something, if you were to trade it in as is wouldn't you be spending more than $1000 on the new car?

     

    Ok, here is the company I used for my JDM engine:

     

    2.5L http://www.tigerjapanese.com/index.php?page=shop.product_details&flypage=shop.flypage&product_id=29&category_id=11&manufacturer_id=0&option=com_virtuemart&Itemid=26

     

    I agree with everyone that you should look for a replacement engine, the cost of the parts to do it right will add up. The 2.2L swap is done quite often, a little less power but an increase in reliability although you drove 200,000 on the original 2.5L.

  2. MY 2.5 JDM engine was non-EGR and I just swapped my intake over and drilled/tapped the head. I removed the heads anyway and put the new style OEM head gaskets on before the install so drilling/tapping the head wasn't hard. I checked the depth of the port on the old heads and put tape around the drill bit to know when to stop. I went slow, used cutting oil and made sure to clear the drill shavings out once in awhile. I believe the tap was just under $20, let me know if you can't find one and I can sell you mine if you want.

  3. Oh I'm not yelling, yet. I did end my sentence with an ! for emphasis since I seem to be having a hard time getting through to you. Look, if you want to ignore the light on your car, that's your prerogative. But please don't advocate that others here do potentially damaging things to their cars by disabling theirs.

     

     

     

     

    Now can we get back to work and on topic please?

     

    I agree we should get back on topic after my reply.:-p

     

    You don't have to get through to me, I have been working on cars for 25+ years so I have a good working knowledge of how they work...as do you. Who said i ignored the light? I simply cleared mine when I went for inspection many, many years ago since just like Subsince nothing I had tried up to that point made the light go away permanently and the car runs just fine. Who knows why but the CEL just stopped one day. Subsince also made the suggestion of the tape, I simply said he could unplug the bulb instead...it's HIS CHOICE, not yours, not mine.

     

    Let's get back on topic now, Subsince have you check for any type of oil leak as was suggested?

  4. Why are you yelling? First off my CEL is gone..ok DAD. PS. No I didn't scan every two weeks because I never disconnected my light or taped over it.

     

    Now Subsince's is not and we all know it's driving him crazy and he has done a huge amount of things to try and get it to stop coming on to no avail. Why don't you fly out there and fix his car if you are so concerned??

  5. Anyplace to go from here? How would I check those sensors, or would it be worth replacing them?

     

    i still think a small piece of black electrical tape strategically placed over the cel might be the ultimate answer.

     

     

    ...or just pull the dash and take the bulb out. Your only problem will be inspection but then you just need to clear the code and hope it doesn't come back on before you get there.

  6. Or it could have simply been a poor connection at the knock sensor connector and the r&r made the connection good again.

     

    If this is in regards to my knock sensor then that wasn't the problem, I had unplugged it and cleaned the connections when i was first having the code. Maybe i had something else going bad in that engine but it sure would be a coincidence that it started just before my HG blew.

  7. My CEL started coming on for the knock sensor but the car never ran any different(even tried Super) so i just kept clearing it. I then added one of the resistor type fixes and it stopped coming on. Not soon after this I overheated so i did the normal flush the radiator, change the thermostat type things. Overheated again, bled the sytem to get rid of any air...then the head gasket blew. From what I and several other people think the knock sensor was hearing the exhaust bubbling into the coolant. Just to justify that I kept the same knock sensor when i installed my new engine, I haven't had the CEL knock sensor code come on ever since so the sensor is/was working correctly.

  8. I just finalized the deal on a 2005 Outback XT, 5 speed manual trans with 24,000 miles....dam I am excited! It was tough to find a manual trans Outback XT for sale anywhere, one I looked at was hit/repaired in the front and others thought they had gold to sell. I didn't find a Limited but I never wanted leather anyway, just the sunroof. I'll have one of these sunroofs installed once I sell the 64 Mustang Convertible I am restoring: http://www.inalfasunroofs.com/ This company is an OEM supplier for many manufacturers, i wouldn't doubt if they supply Subaru.

     

    Now the hard part is to wait for the transporter to pick her up and bring her the 700+ miles to my house. Once that happens my 97 Outback will be for sale for $2200. I also have brand new in the box KYB struts that i will list this weekend.

  9. from what i have seen these cars are notorious for chewing up wheel bearings....if you buy it used def. make sure the bearings are ok or have been replaced.....

     

    Do you have a link so I can read up on this potential issue?

     

    Just found this, seems it's only a whining issue that is covered by a 8 year/100,000 mile warranty from Subaru: http://www.cars101.com/recalls.html

  10. I am debating selling my 97 Outback again and getting a 2005 or 2006 Outback XT. I know it requires premium so I accept the added fuel costs, I just figure if i do it I would like to have some extra fun with the car when I want to. Is there any problems that I should look for? I heard of some 2005's that might have turbo problems, any info on this, recalls, etc?

     

    I am going to have my brother in laws wholesaler start looking for one as it might take some time to find the right car, i just wish they offered the XT in the Moss Green two tone combo :mad:

     

    If I pull the trigger I will list my 97 OBW here, probably looking for a fast sale, say around $2500.

  11. watch it with the 2 solid axle old Bronc - they aren't stable if loaded.

     

    I was in one with another engineer at Ford on the test track MANY years ago and almost rolled it. They suffer from the same ills as old Jeeps and IH Scouts - rear wheel "jacking" in close cornering - the same type of problem as the Corvair

     

    HiJack in progress :-p

     

    Thanks for the warning, I've had a few Jeeps in the past as well and have been 4wheeling for 20+ years so i've had to learn each vehicles quirks. Mine is not stock, 5.5" of lift, 35" tires(for now), NP435 trans(6.69 first gear) and being built for serious trail use with some occasional street driving. They are alot of fun but they don't get very good gas mileage :rolleyes:

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