the_postie

If you got the 3 plug turbo ecu you can plug a na mpfi motor str8 in no harness swap.4 plug i went the other way n/a mpfi to turbo using n/a ecu loom etc ,can't see why it wouldn't work in reverse .

I've got a service manual [4eat]that says it covers 1987.5-91 xt and xt6,1988-89 "L" series[ea82] 1990 loyale it also covers 1990-94 legacy,1993-94 imprezza 1992-97svx.The basic design is similar, of course improvemnts were made over the years and functions added removed.Yes diff ratios were different per model.Pull the diff drain plug and count the pinion teeth to determine ratio.Good chance xt and xt6 is 3.7 .

So shiny.Whats the colour?

.I've only dealt with early stuff.The fwd tcu has less inputs and wires going to it.Some of the pins are different,these can be swapped.Yes fwd into awd most likely will work better than awd into fwd.Fwd tcu runs 2 speed sensors but they back each other up.Awd the speed sensors determins the amount of transfer front to rear, a fwd tcu can't do this. The best advice i can give with auto's is run the right tcu for the box.

What you want to do?Bush ,beach,outback?What city is the plane landing in?Plenty to see on the east coast.

A few subes on tour outback Aus

The earlier Aus impressa and forester dual ranges are similar to the ea82 ratio around the 1.5 mark.There are also after market low range for the later ej boxes availaable here,4.44 diffs 1.5 low.

sti for sure

I've got one of these less the turbo,mines a Aus delivered one owner .Had a 166000 km on it when i got ,strange yellow colour with a grey interior .Sits nice and low would like to give it the full wrx treatment under the skin keeping it stock looking one day.

You can use pipe or Rhs tube or solid alloy,you can weld in anti crush tubes where the bolts go through if using pipe or rhs tube. Offsetting the strut blocks 7mm per inch of lift helps keep the wheels from doing this \ /

Did you space any of the rear suspension x member down or just the actual diff mounting points?

Had a mate order a set in Aus,should be arriving soon.

Pull a plug or lead, hold near block and crank should see spark .

As said elsewhere the cruise actuater/solnoid or whatever its called..I,ve seen this in action you can set it to what you want.Going to a club meet tonight if the guy who's done it is there i get all the details.

I'll second that.Bit of tube welded on the back and a bit of flat slotted were the bolts goes thru on that for me.

THE last time i heard he was having 5 or 6" strut tops made up. a 6"lifted L won't stand out much in Tassie.They look like a hilux coming down the road,maybe put some toyota badges on it.LOL

if you're gunna run the ej driveshafts and awd box you can get another 30 to 40mm with springs without any ill effect to said driveshafts say a 4inch kit with raised springs[pedders] gives you 5 more clearance under the guards.A 2" kit with 27 rubs a little so 4" would give you 29' with rubbing so 31 =?.Ive only done the maths with tape measure and car.

I run a modded 4eat offroad,[locking centre, vtd rear transfer,4.44, 3000 stall] its awesome.It just crawls along nicely,has plenty of power.The auto i'm using is design to go behind ej20T and ej20tt so their isn't any problem with too much torque as i'm only running a ej22.Go for it .oh yeah a cooler is a must.

Hi all.Just posting a link to my spare wheel carrier build up.It's on a 88 wagon but the info can be used to build one for any older subaru.http://www.ausubaru.com/forum/showthread.php?t=5932 Enjoy

i have a ej22 and modified 4eat from a series 1 legacy in my 88 wagon.Engine fits no probs the auto fitted ,but i have a lift kit.Also know of another 88wag with no lift and the auto fitted.This by no means a simple bolt on,nothing is major mod though, sure the motor fits but there is all little bits and pieces like stripping a loom modifying the radiator or support panel.The auto need s the tcu and wiring added to the 88,custom crossmember .I originally had a 95 auto in my wag,there is not much difference externally up to 97.You've got the complete doner car and mech knowledge so its definately doable.I am not a mech and had never stripped a loom before i started,but i managed to build/mod a auto box and wiring ,build custom driveshafts,as well the engine side of the swap.I'll see if i can dig up some links i found useful during my build up.

You need to run the ign and key from the doner vehicle,yep you need to keep the imobiliser.Subaru can reprogram and do a new key,pretty costly.Another way is to use a loom,ecu and intake manifold sensors etc from a earlier ej20 pre imobliser era.

No the awd auto harness has a couple of extra wires.The plugs are the same at the gearbox and tcu end ,some models have the pinning slightly different but you can move these.It would be easier if you want awd to use a awd loom but you can add the the wires and pins to a fwd loom.Also you need to keep the speed sensor to make it shift properly,awd drive have 2 one on the box one in the dash.The front wheel drive speed sensor uses the dash one as a back up so you can get away with just the one on the box .You can use a aftermarket one vw guys know about these.Stripping the loom is time consuming first time round.Early subaru auto looms[series1] are harder to strip than later models.

No its a Australian one off.Box and sheet body/chassis,the running gear is all standard ea81.

2wd and awd ecu are the same but the tcu is not.I have managed to get a 2wd tcu to run a awd box ,which would probably be ok in a sandrail.