Qman

I have done the rear wagon before. I used the string method and it worked quite well. I found that it is much easier to have an assistant when doing it though. Same installation instructions but using a string around the bead of the gasket. Have your assistant apply light pressure from the outside.

Sideways, I just looked the parts up to veirfy and they call for the same part numbers for 91-92. While your information may apply to Canadian models or whatever. I am of the understanding that the 2.2 turbo's are all closed deck engines with forged internals and oil squirters. That is why they seem to last so long and there are not that many for sale. They just last.

Scary ain't it. Oh, I remember the dent from the "Shark tooth":eek: Also remember the look on people's faces when we went up the trail. That was a fun run. The maiden voyage of the Hatch.

What? Ask any of the people that have followed my '92 Turbo Legacy. BTW, mine is a wagon and auto. I have no problem keeping up with my buddy in his Impreza. Corners or straight aways, doen't matter. The clutch can be expensive, there are many different types to choose from. You may want to suck it up and buy a higher end clutch kit. A sport clutch is a good diea with these if you plan to drive it hard. If you are going to pull the motor make sure you do the T-belt while it is out. Unless you got somekind of documentation stating that it has been replaced I think it is a good bit of insurance. Good snag Brian. I noticed that the craig.list had stated the price was $1200. Brian, make sure to use the cruise on the highway. They seem to have a soft spot for 80 mph. I find mine there all the time.

Hmmm, mine doesn't have a dent? J/K

I have 14 1/8" under my diff. It's like I tried to teach you at Reiter. Finesse and patience, and checking the area before you jump in. Be glad that whatever you hit was round and not sharp. You'd be looking for a tank now if it had been.

Don't hit shtuff!!

Nice picture :-\ The answer to your question is 1, 3, 2, 4. If you follow the wire back from #1 cyl in the drawing you'll see where the rotor will need to point. I would suggest picking up a repair manual for your vehicle. Basic info can be gotten from any of the published repair manuals. Factory Service manuals will be very precise but will cost alot more. Good luck.

Yep, three years on my design. Not even a hint of bending.

I've probably got one in the tire pile. Full-sized or space-saver. Email me if interested. You pick it up and it's free.

That wouldn't have happened if the cable had been routed correctly. It should have been routed under the column and hoses. Very common mistake though. I have seen it done that way a couple dozen times at least.

Not EA82's. Anything lifted is generally not allowed to run. It is up to each individual steward but most sites state that they will not allow lifted rigs to run.

Coming together nicely Scott.

The relay should have 4 connectors on it. They should also have numbers next to each connection. The numbers should be 30, 85, 86, 87. #30 = 12 volt power source #85 = ground #86 = switch #87 = to lights. Let me know if that doesn't work. K

Rallying is different than 4Xing. For higher speed stuff the RX already has enough clearance. Better tires are key to handling and your safety. 4Xing is a whole different world. Alot of what you do depends on what it is you are doing. If you are flying down mainline roads and drifting and such then the set up is still going to be OK for that. I would step up to 14" wheel/tire combo's. If you are following Jeeps and 'yotas then you'll need quite a bit more. 3" lift minimum, aggressive terrain tires, improvements to carburation and exhaust. The EA82 cars will accept tires up to 27" with very minimul trimming/cutting. You also want a LSD rear diff or welded diff to get through the really rough stuff. So, to get the most relevant info you should really be more specific on what it is you'll be doing. Oh, BTW, I have rallied my lifted Hatch and finished in the middle of the entire group of entrants(100 or so). So, it is possible to run them but it is usually frowned upon by the safety stewards.

Uh, I would suggest logging in before you want to post. Seriously though. Most problems people experience here are caused by not being logged in. If you log in when you arrive you shouldn't have many problems, if any.

Two things come to mind from your description. This tells me the driveline isn't involved. An open diff won't neccessarily transfer power to the other side. It will look for the least resistance. My guess would be the front axle shaft. Also look at your engine and transmission mounts. Check that your pitch stopper is still there and intact. Torque steer is a normal thing in a Subaru. Are your tires in good shape with even tread at all four corners? Now, that sounds very funny

Phone book?

No, it's in the cage for parts.

You will have to adapt the EA81 rear suspension as suggested above. The 1st Gen rear arms are straight and will not acceot bigger tire and wheel combinations. Anything is possible if you dedicate enough money to it.

This is what they looked like on my old Hatch. I have a pic somewhere, but can't seem to find it, of an '86 silver EA82 wagon with these wheels on it. They looked good. We just had to try it as no on else had done it yet.

I too prefer the '85-6 bumpers. The larger 5mph bumpers were a safety feature imposed by the US government. Nice to see Ron getting recognized for his car.

How long did the car sit for? How many miles on the trans? You could be experiencing the first effects of the governor going south. The autos eat governor shafts when the diffs begin to where out. Here's a link from the USRM(Ultimate Subaru Repair Manual) Governor repair

Costs and fees will be discussed. I think what Eric was looking for was other ideas for things that can be done at/on the fair grounds.

I broke a stub on a welded diff at Rubicon. Just replaced the broken stub. You may want to bring a spare or two if you don't have access to a welder there.