Qman

You definitely need all 3 bolts. It will leak over time if not right away. Intake air leak or water leak in the the intake side of the heads. Bad thing either way.

It's a Hatchback. And yes, you did do a fantastic job converting and modding it. I bet you're the envy of Oz!!

I have the '82 FSM if you end up needing diagrams. Let me know through email.

Technically, it's a body lift. The running gear stays in the same place the body goes higher. It allows for larger tire/wheel combinations. That is where the clearance comes from.

Bad height sensor.

Well, you'll need stock 4WD suspension from a GL wagon. Preferably from '85-6. That will give you the adjustable struts and shocks. They discontinued the adjustable suspension in '87. It won't get much higher than the air suspension on high setting. The only way to get higher is to add a lift of some sort.

There is some dirt on the wheel you see but they are in very good shape and I have the screw down Jackman centers for them too. They are Bridgestones and practicaly brand new. The spare is just as good just needs to be painted to match. The size is 165/80R13. Other pics Here

Come on guys. Let's try to keep this relative. Scott is trying to do his job. He has began racing a Toyota Celica AWD. He really has nothing to gain from this ruling. Let's not try to piss ORG off by bringing in obscure SUV's and complicating things. Prior years have had the Brats running with trucks and wagons running with PG or PGT. A good driver can be competetive in either class. Unfortunately a modified GL may or may not stand a chance against the open class.

I agree. Check that the tensioner is all the way out of the way. Verify the routing. The first one i did I had the routing wrong. Once the routing is right it will fit without removing components. I will see if I have any pics showing the routing.

GEEZ, I guess I should have pressed the sarcasm button down a little harder. :brolleye: :-\

That last pic looks photoshopped.

You can use a 4.11 differential. The trans is another story. You can use a 4 sp single range trans from a Gen1 Brat. They were 4.11 however, they are not D/R.

She is right on with that one. All should be careful giving that to spouses. It can be used against you in times of disaggreement.

I still got them with brand new tires and a spare to match.

Even though those are an aftermarket brand they have been messed with beyond that. The two nuts in between the perch and adjustment tab have been added. Looks like they may have even added a different bolt. It's much longer than stock.

Also the wrong generation of body. "80 hatch is gen2 and '81 Brat is gen1.

They are indeed Hitachi's. I don't know the cfm's though.

I run two different engines with hot cams in them. I have run as much as 18 degrees on my '85 Brat running an EA81. Stock is 8 degrees. Adjust the timing and pay attention to the car. Check the plugs from time to time to check burn condition. You'll know when the timing is right.

A new OEM valve. It has been found that aftermarket valves do not operate the same. They have been known to suck oil into the manifold. Did you get the routing problem figured out?

The A/C brackets will have to be modded. I do not know what the kit does to accomodate the A/C. But I know it has to be raised up to about where it was before the lift in the engiine compartment. It shouldn't be that big of a deal to take care of.

Very good point Mark. Frustration has to account for something.

I found a decent seat to lower the seat in the Brat. Some of you know that being 6'4" isn't always the best formula for comfort in a Suabru. Now add the extra clearance needed by a helet and you have a neck compressor. I went to the local PaP and found these seats out of an Isuzu Impulse. Lowers the seat by about 3". They also have really nice bolster support and adjustable lumbar support as well. The other nice thing is the recline is chain driven. Makes for minute adjustments in positioning. And this one shows the brackets. The original seat rails will bolt to the seat with a very minor alteration to the rear hole on the outside rail. A slight ovalling is all I had to do. Then, all it needs is a piece of flat steel mounted to the seat and and inner rail. The hole width is off by 1 1/4". (I haven't finished the flat peice yet) This one shows the difference in height.

A couple of things, one, and probably the most important. Disconnect the battery. It will save your alternator. Keep in mind that everyone has a different method to remove the engine. Take all the information and find what works best for you and your equipment. As far as the 5sp. conversion. There are alot of theories and misconceptions. I have done alot of these. You can use the EA81 flywhel. However, you may run the risk of having the disc stick to the flywheel. They are a slight bit smaller than the EA82's. I have ran EA81, EA82 and XT6 flywheels on EA81 engines and have not had any ill effects from any of them. I put 4+yrs on my old Hatchback and approx 10,000 miles offroad. I ran an EA81 with an EA82 flywheel and 5sp. My current brat is using the XT6 setup with the 5sp. The reason I am telling you what I used is to give you some reason to believe I may know what I am talking about. When ever you remove the flywheel you MUST use thread lock on the bolts. This serves two purposes. One, to make sure the bolts don't work themselves out. Two, to seal the holes in the crank. They open up to the crankcase and oilpan. If they aren't sealed they will leak and you'll think the rear main seal is leaking. If you choose to use the 5sp. All you need is the trans, mounts from the 4sp, crossmember from the 4sp 2 piece driveline from the donor car. You will need to weld in a couple of center bearing mounting tabs to hold the centerbearing. You will need to figure the wires out for your trans electrical as well. You must use the pressure plate that matches the flywheel and the throwout bearing that matches the trans and the 5sp disc. The splines are different between transmissions. As far as the engine. Since this is your first, make sure to use some 1/2" masking tape and write numbers on the tape to help identify where the hoses go. Make sure you put the same number on the hose as you do on the port. Same for the electrical. Good luck!!

Sorry for the delay. I am having some problems with the video. The pics are posted. Pics Use lo-tech slide show for the best results. Some are sequence shots and will look better that way.