Qman

Maybe, how many miles were on them when you bought them?

Which guard are you talking about?

That is why it is usually done when performing a valve job/head gasket.

Wrong! 95 JDM, 96 USDM, was the only hydraulic 2.5l Valve lash is usually just checked on DOHC engines, not adjusted. It is better to do with a valve job anyway. Most backyard mechanics are not able to set the lash very well. Besides, the shim kits are not cheap. SOHC engines are adjustable rockers with adjusting screws. Much easier to adjust.

Not adjustment. Reclocking the torsion bar. It requires removing it and reinstalling it in another position.

Too late...

Those who do not know the EA81 suspension should not reply about EA81 suspension. Rotating the position of the torsion arm will lower the rear. Not harming anything. Not permanently altering anything. Fronts can be lowered with 2wd suspension and altered springs. Again, not permanent or damaging. Bob Barci lowered a EA81 Hatch. It looked good and handled well. Still under-powered though. And yes, to each his own!

Entertaining, yes! Stupid, YES! With the RR wheel on the edge when you let off the E-brake to take off the LF caliper and it moves just enough to dislodge your "quality" hi-lift jack... And yes, I am the safety guy on every event we do. I have all my fingers and toes and plan to keep it that way. A Darwin award winner in the making!

Tailgate or bed side? I still have the blue tailgate.

Nice. Price is right too!

Neither engine will be a good choice for his build. 3.4 turbo has a late power curve. 350 in a toy is just asking for trouble. Yes, I know, they are all over the place. And 99% of them have over-heat issues and are unreliable. The only conversion I personally will do to mine is the 4.3. Good torque stock. But having access to torque cams makes it a no-brainer. FI and zero problems make it the right choice. Stick with the 20R and you'll be golden.

Perfect

Those are nice. Great little workhorses.

Frames are usually fine around here. Body doesn't seem to be a priority. Engine run well without knocks or smoking. Has cross-over steering been done yet? J arms are the weak link of the steering. Looks like the right base for your progect though. How much?

First, you kids need to settle down. Don't make Dad come in here. Now, in regards to the timing belt set up. Most manuals will show setting up one side straight up. Then the words tell you to rotate the crank one revolution. Then set the other side striaght up. The probelm herein lies. The pics usually show both sides up. People do not read when pictures are present. The first one I did was backwards. Bought many that were pronounced dead for the same reason. Read the manual, be it FSM, HTKYSA, Chiltons, Haynes, and look at the pictures. You do have to do both. Not just one or the other.

Seems a little brash. Maybe work on your technique. If you do not know how to communicate without being an rump roast maybe you shouldn't post on the interwebs?!? See what I mean. Just doesn't come across any other way does it?

Quit hijacking. Start your own for sale thread in classifieds.

Hey, I, for one, am happy to see you here. Welcome and see you soon. Ken

Looks good!

And go half as many places. And break 100 times as many axles. As one of three people to drive a Subaru on the Rubicon Trail I can vouch for the ability of a Subaru. But do not fool yourself into thinking it is as capable as a built jeep. Not even a stock Rubicon. They do what they do very well. And the Hatch Patrol has pushed them past their limits more than most could dream. And yes, there is video documentation of it. I applaud those who stand by their rigs proudly. But, be realistic. There is no substitution for gears, lockers and flex in the end. That is why you see so many going to solid rear axle swaps as I did to my Brat. Or dual axle swaps as McBrat did to his. Be proud but be realistic. And Nipper... pickstock nailed it by the 4th post.

Limp mode results in low rpm only. Generally speaking, a bad knock sensor will read improperly. It usually will not result in a limp mode. Half the time, the knock sensor is bad long before the ECU recognizes it. It simply can not sense detonation and make the required adjustments.

Being that you live in the NW and hills are prominent around here. Any detonation will result in a problem. Short and long term. If she is on flat with no hills then there wouldn't be a problem. I wouldn't risk detonation on a long hill or any other time for that matter. But, it is your decision.

Knock sensors are designed to pull timing at upper rpm's to minimize detonation. Chances are slim that it will cause low rpm problems.

If you don't know the extent of the damage, ask. don't give advice based on an assumption. That is why things go from bad to worse. Listening to a long-time member guess at a how bad the damage is just not how it should be done.

Sometimes you have to add a spacer of sorts to take up the slack. I have used everything from a piece of tubing to a lug nut. (You get the idea)