Qman

The gen1's can be lifted. They can become very capable off road. They can be a bit more expensive to maintain. To do it right the rear suspension will need to be upgraded. Easiest would be to use a gen2 rear torsion bar setup. The 1600 will work but it takes a lot to do it.(right Jared?) Sounds like to perfect candidate to me, rusted and neglected. It will require more funding then doing any other generation Sube but could be a very unique vehicle. I would upgrade to the 1800 and D/R 4sp. Then add a Weber after you get it road worthy. 10" lift looks cool but is it really neccessary to offroad with? 6" will get you almost anywhere you want to go. Sounds like your budget is going higher every time you post. The bigger you go the more tire you're going to want to stuff in there. As the tire increases the power will decrease unless you start upgrading the motor. This is read as more $$$$$. Try taking smaller steps with your modification ideas. Work your way up and you will find the right size lift and other modoifications that will fit what you will be doing. Much easier to go forward then backward.

+ = black wire - = yellow wire

Block heater plug. 3 wire connector with a boomer-rang shape?

Perfect steps. The only thing to add is; drain the fluid first.

Better yet... Mike leads one. He plans the time and place. Then he has to be there. May tends to be a good time for camping and access yto the snowy areas. Higher elevations like Evans and Naches will need a few more weeks to thaw usually. OK Mike, give us a plan!!

Why must we push our own opinions onto others. Why not ask why instead of busting his balls? Why didn't people have the same response to Brian when he stated he was going to "carve up" a turbo wagon? He isn't carving the Brat, only the motor. I have owned EA81 Turbo's and they aren't power houses but stronger than n/a EA81's. These aren't big $$ collectibles and if he does do it, it will only make the remaining ones a little more valuable. Let's cut people some slack.

Did the rear placard state GL10? I believe the '83's had the options available but didn't have the actual GL10 label. You could order the power options without the digi. I have an '88 turbo wagon here right now that is a GL with out the digi. Different model but same idea.

Mine has done that before. If you can roll in either direction try that. If not, you may want to try raising the front to take pressure off of the drive train. If neither works try starting it and attempting to move it. It will probably try to die but just give it a little more gas to keep it running. Then put the clutch in and try to force it out. It may take a few attempts but one of these should work.

Thanks for pointing that out Caleb. Stock tires are only 23". You can run any size tire you want on your Sube. However, the larger the diameter the worst your gear ratio ends up being. Example, a stock ratio with stock tires is 3.90. By adding 185/70R14's you change the gear ratio to 3.75. The idea behind the transfer case mod is to lower the crawl ratio. If you are not into REAL hardcore off-roading it will not do much for you except drain you bank acct. It will add more pressure to the rest of the drive train. But it allows you to basically get out and walk next to your rig on the trail while it is running/driving.

That's what I'm thinking. And it could be the clutches binding and popping that he's hearing. I don't think it would slip enough to not bind the drivetrain.

The main difference is the angle off the cross member. They point more forward. I believe the length is the same.

By definition they are two different ideas. DOJ= Dual offset joint They are used primarily as inner joints on the Subaru. They will slide in and out as well as rotate. CVJ= Constant Velocity Joint These are a fixed(doesn't move laterally) joint that will only rotate.

What car are we dealing with here?

The GM conversion is a good alternative. But, you don't have to grind the case to fit. All that needs to be done is reverse the sleeve that fits in the rear ear of the XT6 alt. You'll also need to add a slightly larger connector for the battery power line. The pulleys are explained in the write up.

Here's a link to pics of how I did mine. Note the drivers side goes to the PCV and the passenger side goes to the air filter(just like Austin's). You do not want to run the vent hoses together. It needs to get air from one source and pull into the PCV from the other. All parts used for the linkage, spring mount and fuel line inlet were taken from the Hitachi. The location for the accellerator cable needs to be as straight as possible. If it isn't it will cause a groove in the casing and eventually break or stick. Bad thing in either case. Weber set up

Key word here is Impreza

Austin, that's a good start. Things you need to improve are: accellerator cable mounting and linkage. spring location. and fuel lines. I'll take some pics and explain then.

The difference in the wheels that you see may be the center. Some required a plastic washer to accomodate the center caps and some did not. Measure the centers to see if they are the same diameter. If they are not then all you need is the plastic that slips around the hole for the centercap. As for the rotor issue. If you change to vented rotors you'll need the calipers as well. They will provide better braking and are a bit easier to find these days.

Caleb is very much correct. Most likely they will replace a set of metrics. They are getting harder and harder to find as some of you know. Pug owners have deep pockets(they have too). Most of their parts are no longer produced and they are getting very used to paying for what they find.

Isn't there a hex shaped hole in the top of the strut. If there is you'll need to use an allen wrench in to hold the shaft still. You may have to take the strut out of the car if you can't get to it.

You see the link I posted for you?

Try these instead. 5 lug conversion

I always use Kendall LSD fluid. There are procedures listed in the FSM. I can look them up but it'll be a day or two. How many miles on the donor? Chances are that it is fine. It only takes about 20 minutes to install if the rear axles cooperate and come off without a fight. What are you putting it into?

I have an EA82 flywheel that was lightened to 17lbs. The weight was removed from the engine side of the flywheel. I can shoot you a pic or you can come check it out.

Sorry, should have been more specific. The '92 wagon didn't come in a LSi.