Qman

Probably the 5sp conversion next. I don't really like the gearing in the 4sp. Everything else is good as gold though. You'll all see it at the RallyX's.

These are beautifully made. They are exact replicas and maybe even better quality. Well worth the price. Pics on the Brat

OK, that is a condensor or resistor. It is used to primarily reduce static and radio noise I believe. You can get one off just about any Subaru in the junkyard. I reccommend taking the engine attachment bracket off instead of trying to unscrew it. Then remve the connection at the coil. Not an absolutely neccessary part but it is reccommended to use it. You may even be able to get it new from a dealer but it is probably pricey knowing the dealer pricing.

I am not 100% on this one but I do not believe the ignition switches are interchangable between the EA81 Brat and the EA82 wagon.

I may have one. I'll check the pile and get back to you.

I used the digital camera to record the new exhaust on the '85 Brat. I had a real nice tuned system made for it. It consists of 26" header pipes @1.75" into a collector @2.125" which goes into 2.25" pipe through a magnaflow muffler and chrome tip. My master mechanic and overseer says that it is an absolute work of art. Take a listen and let me know what you think. BTW, the first one is at idle and no, the new engine doesn't have a miss. That is the cam loping. '85 album Two clips at the bottom of the page.

If you can hear it then it is probably the metal/rubber line from the EGR valve. Behind the carb to the drivers side of the EGR is a large diameter line the runs into the ASV system. At start up run your hand around there to see if you feel any holes or leaks. You can also use an inspection mirror to see the underside of the hose/pipe. I have ran into this line problem before. Moisture and such rust the pipe.

As GD stated above. Here's a couple pics of the engine compartment of my '85 Brat. Stripped to the bone with a Weber DGEV 32/36. Engine1 Engine2 This last pic also shows how I set up the spring for the throttle. Engine3

Brake pedal travel is usually associated with the rears. Check your adjustment on the drums. It should have a slight drag or rubbing sound from the shoes contacting the drum. I know on the EA81 model brakes I adjust it until they bind and then back off one knotch. Is the rod for the M/cyl threaded by any chance? If it is you can take some play out with it. But be careful with that one as you can force dragging brakes too.

Probably easiest to find him on his board.

Rubicon stills Let's see if this one can be left on the board.

They are regrinds from Delta cams in Tacoma. They use your old cam and weld and regrind it to the proper specs. Good quality and very quick turn around.

Definitely 8mm. You will have to get a set of make your owns though. They don't make a set of 8mm for the EA series cars(at least that I have been able to find). So you found a rig did you? What did you end up with? You'll have to come by and check out my '85 Brat now that it's done. Ken

What everyone is missing here is the fact that Shawn is using a FT4WD trans. They are shaped differently then D/R's. I think you are on the right track with removing the sway bar for now. Getting everything lined up and then installing the bar. It may require some spacers at the crossmember mounts for the bar to clear everything. I would also do a little massage therapy to the tunnel. It looks to be hitting on the top corner of the trans as well. Those tranny's are a bit wider, if memory serves it's purpose, then any other tranny except the 4 sp auto. BTW, cutting and welding the sway bar will cause it to lose it's spring. Unless you re-treat it after welding.

Well, I got it back from the exhaust shop today. Bad news first. He couldn't do the dual setup like I wanted. He couldn't match my specs or requirements. Good news, he built a very nice well flowing system that seems to do it's job nicely. Accelleration is dramatically improved. Power to 5K rpm's. Still need to fine tune it with the addition of 8mm wires and a regap and carb adjustments. All the same though it is a drastic improvement over stock. I took Rob for a ride and he thinks it'll be a good race between the Brat and his EA82T wagon. I am going to make a few tweeks to the suspension and see how the handling is improved or not. I am going to install a T-wagon sway bar and new rear shocks. Then I am going to do some experimentation with a torque block spacer for the carb. I'll expand on the results later.

There are two 10mm head bolts that go into the block above the oil pump. Slightly loosen these and it will relieve enough pressure that you'll have better luck getting it out. Use Mick's technique or use a couple of small 90 degree picks to wiggle it out. Make sure that you do not gouge the inner area. When you install the new pump be sure that you retighten those bolts or you'll have leaks.

That's all I asked for to begin with. Show me results and I'd make a decision then. One other thing to consider when stiffening an EA series vehicle is the fact that they are uni-bodies. The stresses will have to be distributed somewhere. Let me know your findings and I'll make a decision from there. Ken

To add a bigger turbo to your EA82 you will need flanges for mounting and new downpipe as well. The EJ cross over will not work as it is a dual port exhaust vs single port exhaust. Ideally you want your restriction/backpressure before the turbo with almost zero backpressure after the turbo.

brat86, that is all true. My uncle built the first dual engine hemi dragster in the 60's. But... a full on drag car doesn't have things like dashboards and cd players that will take the excess vibrations to heart. Solid mounts and chains have been used in all aspects of motor sports. But the situation is completely different. 4WD launches tend to add to the abuse meter. I feel a little flex is good. Saves on the expensive parts. Mounts are cheap compared to axles, drivelines and clutches. Also, wheel hop is caused by the suspension and weight transfer not the trans.

Yeah, I saw that post. I am a little hesitant to go with a solid type mount for the engine and tranny in a Subaru. It will tighten things up nicely but where will the movement that should be taken up in the mounts go? Axles, U-joints, driveline or clutch components? Show me results of a field test and then I'll consider converting. Ken

This motor went into the grey '85. The silver Brat remains the same. Your gearing will kick me. But my additional power with less weight will help me keep up for a while. It'll be lots of fun though. I can't wait!!

:clap:

What kind of money? It is not as common but I believe it is right. I remember someone(Mick maybe) brought this combination to light. 87K makes it a good find. I remember someone was looking for an auto Brat a while back. So if you find you do not like it there will probably be a buyer if you wish to sell.

Just got your email. Glad Shawn was able to get it taken care of for you.

How's the power now? Seems a bit big for stock set up.