Qman

Good point Tom! Guy in a Suburban kept trying to pace me for some reason. So I just put my foot into it a bit. FWD is the only thing I've done with it so far. I need tranny mounts before I get to uppity.

You're in Greenwater? I love it up there. It was about 2:00pm that I headed to the shop. Sorry if I spooked the birds. Should get together and meet up. Shoot me an email if you'd like to check out the Brat. Ken

Well, I slept in today and started about 12:00. Within the hour I was taking the first test drive with Mikeys with me. Very loud exhaust leak but still ran real well. Drove down to the exhaust shop and left it there. Should be ready to pick up Monday sometime. Runs strong but will need to be fine tuned once the exhaust is finished. Some ingredients, *Solid lift block(1800) *Hydraulic heads(decked .020) *Stripped Hitachi intake(gasket matched for Weber adapter) *Removed all emissions. *Very large profile cam. I don't have to specs handy. The builder told me that when installed in aircraft it produces 150hp with small injection and exhaust. After explaining my set up he said 150HP easy. Maybe more. *True dual exhaust *32/36 Weber It has a nice little cam lope to it. Not really noticable but the trained ear will pick it up. More when I get the fine tuning complete. I may still need to upgrade the coil for a stronger spark.

I just picked up a EA82 flywheel that was shaved down to 20lbs. Noticably lighter than stock and about 3-7lbs lighter than a stock ER27. I am sorry that I can't tell what the stock weight was. It was a while ago that we weighed them and he told me he wouldn't sell the lightened one(until today, he, he).

I started the transplant today. Undid the first hose at 4:30pm. installed the last bolts at 7:30pm. Short 4 shorter exhaust bolts that I'll pick up in the morning. A visit to the exhaust shop in the morning should be the final piece to the 150hp puzzle. Report card tomorrow.

Fact. The wristpin location is slightly different between 1.6 and 1.8. 1.6 is slightly lower on the piston. Maybe .010 but it is different. I showed this to a long time Subaru tech once and he didn't realize it until he saw it with his own eye's. .010 across the surface of the piston could result in .5 CR?

Which direction did the clutch disc springs face when you put the disc in? Toward motor=bad, away from motor=good. Check the 4WD lever too. Also try to let the clutch out with the E-brake fully applied. This will tell you if the hub is bad or even an axle. If you let the clutch out and it dies not a problem with either but, if you let the clutch out and it doesn't die then get out and see what is turning and what is not. Make sure to have the emergency/parking brake fully applied. A helper wouldn't be a bad idea either.

No carrier bearing on a stock EA81 wagon!!

There are torque specs for this. I believe it is 145 ft/lbs. It sounds like a washer problem to me as well. Try Edrachs suggestion of cleaning the mating surfaces. While doing this you can check for grease amount and condition in the bearings. It may just need to be repacked or even just replacing the bearings with new ones and new grease may solve the problem.

Swapping to discs is often the best answer for any brake issue on a Subaru. To solve the problem you are currently having. How much travel does your brake pedal have? If it seems to travel quite a bit try adjusting the rears per a manual. Usually turn the adjuster until you can not turn the drum. Then back it off one flat. You'll understand when you do it. The adjusting bolt has four flat surfaces on it for adjustment purposes. The rear brakes are notorious for making noise because of the drum design. Dust and such can not escape and they are small enough that any material will cause them to chatter.

There are a couple sensors that control height. I have had them not want to go to high settings before(GL-10 sedan). Try jacking on side then the other with a floor jack and see if it will self inflate. Do you hear the compressor working or is the light on with no noise from the compressor? Sorry about feeling taken. But... a used car is just that. It can last for years or minutes. Unfortunately there really is no right answer or solution to this type of thing. Good luck and let me know about the above info.

I don't have hard numbers for you, but... I have physically seen the difference in the height of the EA81(1800) and EA71(1600) pistons. The difference is in the pin height in relation to the top of the piston. There is a difference but it is slight. It will increase chamber volume but I think the fact that most also deck the heads this may lose some of it too. I am running two different hi-per motors with different cam profiles. One is more torque and one is set up for higher RPM and horsepower. Most of you HP is going to come from your cam regardless of which pistons you use. I will try to find the numbers for you in the FSM but it may be a while before I can post that info.

A little history. The first hydraulic motors appeared in 1983. US Open market anyway. They were mated to automatics. The EA81T's were also hydraulic. In 1985, these hydraulic motors were installed in all EA81 applications, ie, Hatches and Brats. The first benefits are that you do not need to adjust the valves every 10K miles. Other benefits include bigger valves in the heads(better flow ?) (Less maintenance for the owner). All of the parts are interchangable. I have built motors using solid lifter blocks and hydraulic heads and big cams and pure hydraulic set ups with big cams. EA81 weren't the only hydraulics though. JDM 1600's also came with hydraulic lifters. I don't know what requirements were but I know some had them. Solid lift tends to be better for pure performance but the technology has come so far in the last 10 yrs that anything can be made to perform and be reliable.

Hmmm, I have also heard a rumor or two. Word has it that there will be a WCSS6. It is in the planning stages and no mention of site or exact date has been set yet. This will be interesting though. 2 shows in the same time frame, scary.

Holy crap!!! I just did a quick tally and figured you guys have a long way to go. I've been at it a little over 5 years now and figure it to be over 50!! with 8 on the property right now. Parted, bought, repaired and resold, kept, modified and transformed.

Rob, not all were turbo's. Remember my '84 beige wagon? Back to the question, what are the rpm's while in gear and out of gear? When was the last tune up done? When was the last time the fuel filters have been replaced?

:clap: :clap:

How's Jareds status? I'd fly down to him if I could get out of work but it's a zoo right now. Someone has to be able to get to him. Which hubs does he have one the roo now? Maybe someone can get a set of used hubs to him to get him to the base. Ken

Should be from an H-6(XT6). You will need the XT6 clutch for that one. The major components are engine-trans, exhaust-turbo. motor mounts, all vacuum lines, fuel lines, water hoses. The radiator will have to come out as well. Do you have a manual for it yet? That should be the first purchase you make. Read it through and familiarize yourself with the components and methods in the descriptions. It will make it easier to have it on the fender than having to get on the computer.

I don't know of any complete kit for them. I think you'll have to piece it together. Rings and bearings aren't cheap though. Have you contacted CCRinc in Colorado? They build Subaru engines to factory specs and ship to your door. They do short and long blocks. CCRinc

It's not the HH. They leak and fail but I have yet to see one bind up. It is in the pedal. You need to lube it. The pedal has two springs on it I believe(if it's a turbo)(one if not). Squirt some sort of lube around the pedal pivot and see if it helps. If it does you may want to disassemble the pedal assy and use some lithium grease to lube it all up. Make sure the clutch cable is routed under the steering column in the engine compartment. That is one of the most frequent mistakes I see on Subarus. People route them over the column and they wear out prematurely.

Well, two people can move it around OK. Being that it will have all goodies still attached I wouldn't recommend it. The two hour estimate is a bit off in my opinion. I am very versed in the mechanicals of these and I can have the turbo engine out and on the ground in 1-1 1/2 hours. The first timer will take a bit longer. Either way is ok, it just depends on the equipment you have access to. Do you have a larger hydraulic jack or an engine hoist? This will determine which way will be easier. Time wise you have to take a few things into consideration. You have to get the flywheel turned(machined) to make sure you don't get any clutch shudder. There's clean up of the parts and such. If you are gonna pull the motor then I'd recommend doing the rear main seal as it will be out in the open(either way you do it actually) Maybe valve covers or any other leaking gaskets or seals. More work now but less later. You will also take into account the time needed to fix any broken bolts in the exhaust system. They don't always like to come out after they've been untouched for long periods. Being new to this I would say plan for a weekend and hope it only takes a few hours. Another option is to get a flywheel from a junk yard and have it turned ahead of time. Will save an hour or more waiting for the shop to turn it.

There are a few ways to do it. Depends on if you want to pull the motor or trans. Make that decision and then we can give you pointers.

Excellent point!