Qman

LOL Probably the most critical is the front frame/body mounts. They're uni's as we discussed the other day. If those get too bad nothing left to hold the car up but the cross member. I had a Brat once that the drivers seat was actually falling through the floor. Basically, just crawl around under the thing and check it out. Also, look for paint that is bubbling. Always a sign of hidden rust growing unchecked. Ken

You're welcome, any time. Rust areas on an '84 and older wagon... Rear wheel wells, rocker panels, floor boards, front fenders, body mounts under and behind the front tires, front frame rails, rear hatch area, bottom corners of windshield. These will work for any model from the same era. Let me know how it goes. Ken

You have mail.

It's about time they closed Walker for the winter. Last time we were there it was all torn up.

OK

Chances are it is the diodes in the alt. Sort of a tell all sign. It will read good voltage at first but the amperage may be slipping. What model Subaru do you have?

Greg, call me and I'll give you directions to my place. We'll talk and I'm pretty confident I xcan answer most of your questions. I can even show you a few examples. I also thought of a wagon for you. Ken

The clutch forks crack at the ball socket(pivot point). It is very replacable but does require moving the engine forward or the trans back. Don't have to completely remove but you may want to depending on any service that you may want to do.

Zaps is off the market for now. Heep, I replied to the PM. Also, you have mail.

Interesting thing happened today. I went in for an emission test on the '85 Brat. In the desription screen of their computer it stated that the Brat was an SUV. I kid not. Maybe I can get some documentation from the DMV and put an end to this issue once and for all.

EA82 flywheels are the most plentiful. Clutches should run $100.-125.

Have you done a voltage check at the alternator and battery? It may still be charging system related.

Sorry to keep asking the same questions. But, if it was performing well at driving RPM's then I would say check the connections at the battery and alternator. But you say it is not. What are you using to clean/spray the wiper motor with? You may have some bad solder developing. You may need to scrape and clean or even resolder. Do you have access to another wiper motor? If you do you may want to test it in the system to take the system out of the equation. Good luck!

Not completely untrue. Most ground wires are too small. Just enough to ground the system. The newer cars seem to be more ground sensitive then even our cars. 15 HP I doubt, A couple of HP could be gained by all the electical components working at peak performance. Still, at first glance it is quite funny to see.

They make KYB's for Subes. The air suspension is on the '85 and newer EA82 models. Mostly found on the GL10's and Turbo's. You may want to just save some money for a while and buy the kit instead of spending alot of money to get little or no results. This is simply my opinion.

Does it act normally at higher RPM's?

Fuel filters. Change both of them. Chances are that the rear filter hasn't been changed in a while. It starts as a little bog or hesitation under load and gets progressively worst.

Are they slow at idle and at higher RPM's?

Dante, the easiest way to do this is to get a roof rack off of the same style wagon as yours. Attach it to the car using the original bolts and Riv-nuts. Then using all thread you can build a locking device for it and it will be safe. Never had anyone mess with my spare when it was on the top of the Hatch. It really is the easiest solution other than strapping it down inside the car.

Done. I have been having battery issues but will try to get it sorted out before hand.

I'll check with the post office. I don't know how it will work sending an aerosol can across the border under an "Orange alert". We may be able to work something out though. Ken

Just couldn't wait huh?

Night time? Did you have the heater and wipers going by any chance? How's battery/alternator? No relay for the tail lights but seperate relays for the headlights. Sounds like maybe the headlight switch is going out. Are you near any of the other board members? Maybe you can find a junk yard on Friday. Try the switch and see if that helps.

Jon, he's got an '88, single port injection. Unless of course it's been modded. Besides, no MAF on a carbed model.

I would just use the 4WD D/R 5sp. The RX trans is a 3.70 and the gear ratio makes it more for highway then for rally type driving. The LSD can be changed to a 3.90 ratio. Again, just my opinion.