Qman

If this is for your rally vehicle then the high end HP from the turbo is the ticket. If it's for an offroader then the webered EA81 is the way to go. EA81stock=73hp EA81T stock=90HP EA81 with weber and exhaust=est. 90HP EA81T with airbox mods and exhaust=guess110HP The thing to consider is the torque curve. If you are running wide open rally type driving the turbo will stay in the power curve and produce power there. If you are running off road where the RPM's are lower then the the Weber is where you will see the most benefit. Trying the search function brought up quite a few topics. Some relevant and some not. But it should make for interesting reading. These are the posts that Weber found. And the EA81T*

When the waterpumps were replaced did you replace the o-ring on the pipe that fits into the pump?

Read the article I posted. It will answer the questions you have.

All or most batteries made today have date stamps on them. Is there any branding visible on the battery Mick?

2 members have H-6 Brats. I see them do the sort of rallying he wants to do and they are not as competitive. I know that the original WRC cars were Legacy's. But, did anyone notice how fast they dropped it when the Impreza came out? If you put the Legacy and Impreza side by side and compare there really is no need for this discussion. The XT6 is a good option. The 2.2 turbo transplant is also a good option. You can turbo a 2.5 N/A motor. It is being done here Rallitek The car will aid you in performance but only seat time will make you competitive. If you go with a stock Impreza, even a 1.8, you will be able to run in the lower classes and gain experience before you force yourself into an open type class.

I just dealt with this exect thing at the junkyard yesterday. Bolt broke off inside the manifold. Penetrating oil doesn't work well because it does nothing for the rust that is holding the bolt in place. I exposed some of the board member to some stuff called "Yield". It actually eats/dissolves/removes/softens however you wish to describe it. Edrach found a distributor and his company bought some and he resold to a few board member. Back to the point. I spray the solution into the hole of the offending bolt. Let it sit for a few minutes. The slowly began to twist the manifold back and forth. Then, gently placed a pry bar under the manifold while twisting. It came off with a little work. Now I didn't mess with the bolt after words because I was just after the manifold. I'm not sure if anyone from your area got any of this stuff. I have a couple extra cans. But it is expensive by what you are probably used to. $13.00 a can. It lasts a long time. I have two cans that lasted almost three years. There are a couple less destructive ways to remove a broken/frozen bolt. Small propane torches work well. They don't get hot as fast as gas type. Heat-cool-heat-cool approach can give good results. Cutting it off flush with the block and drill out then use an E-Z out also produces good results. There is enough room in the block there to install a Heli-coil if neccessary. What ever you decide to try go slow and be patient. Otherwise the results could be catastrophic.

Just keep this one. I forgot to check, sorry. I'll get it this weekend and post it for you. I think I can take pics of at least three of the drivelines. I don't know what it would take but I have a custom driveline that was from my Maroon Hatch. Shipping would probably be very expensive a long waiting. Plus, I need at least $200.00us for it. Ken

They could have also installed the axle 180' out. The hole is off-centered. If that is the case it will be a biatch to get ot out. Take Ed's advice and try the other end if you haven't yet.

Ultimate Subaru Repair Manual-trans swap

If it is a Loyale then yes. Contact PK Davis at Ozified.com

They've been running the EJ22 since '90 in the Legacy and since inception of the Impreza I believe. The EJ22T will take the most abuse but I don't think they ever put it in the Impreza. And the Legacy is kind of big/heavy for rally. At least to compete with the Imp's and WRX's The 2.5RS Imp's are starting to come down in price. There are ton's of aftermarket support for those.

Yes, you did read about 27's without a lift. However he beat the hell out of his wheel wells so he could turn. He had to beat enough that he actually put a couple cracks in the rear of the front fenderwell. It took awhile but I managed to convince him that he needed a lift also. You can only beat these things so much.

First, without the lift it will require more trimming. The best fitment is with steel pugs. A lift and a come-a-long will go a looooooong way.

It has been doing that alot. Must be something with the new upgrades that were done in the gallery. If you click on the album name and then the pic shows up fine.

They are not servicable as they sit now. They can be removed and replaced with an aftermarket u-joint. Can be spendy depending on the driveline shop that does it. If you keep blowing the rear joint I'd look at the rear diff Might have pinion issues.

They also sell wiring diagrams for the conversions.

There is also a campaign from Subaru. It requires changing a hose or two and adding a piece between the hoses.

More research reveals that it appears they were available in 1987 only.

Has anyone seen or know of a 2wd Turbo 3dr? I have seen sedan's, wagon's and XT's but never a 3dr. Just another off the wall thought that runs through my brain.

Well, surprisingly, I am starting to feel better. So, I should be there. I don't know if I'll have a vacancy yet.

Jeff, what year is your Hatch?

I am sure that the diameter is different. But I don't know if the overall length is different.

Sounds like it may be stuck on the pins. They can't really be seen from outside. Also make sure that the flat washers are removed on the lower bolt/studs. I have seen them stick before. Are you getting any separation of the engine and trans? There are 2 nut/bolts and 2 nuts that bolt the trans to the engine. The crossmember shouldn't need to come off the trans to drop the trans. Have you removed the starter? It will need to be removed to get the trans back far enough to clear the clutch assembly. Once you have everything off and loose you may have to wrestle it around a little bit to get some separation. Once you get it to start to come apart you can assist it by GENTLY placing a flat screw driver or prybay between the engine and trans. Slowly work your way around the bellhousings and it should slip apart. Make sure to have it well supported by the jack. Also make sure the clutch cable and speedometercable are disconnected and that all electrical connections are unhooked. That should give you enough to get it loose and out. Good luck.

I know for a fact that it has been sitting for a while. It may just have bad gas in it. Also pop the distributor cap and check for moisture. I know it was on 277th for at least 4-6 months.

I forgot to mention. Use only Factory Subaru PCV's. They work best. Others have a tendancy to suck oil. Don't ask why because I can't answer it logically. But all Guru's I've ever talked to about this have stated the same thing.