Qman

I agree with the rotor thing. I have found that using a 1/2" ratchet to turn the crank helps get the screw more accessible. I have also marked the distributor and pulled it out to change the rotor. It was actually easier than fighting the screw blindly. But as for the headlight adjustment it is really quite easy with the right screw driver. I have a14" or so long phillips screwdriver I use for adjusting headlights. I adjusted the ones in the kids '88 3dr last night. They were so far out of adjustment that they were crossed. Just slide the srcew driver under the metal trim above the bumper. It can be a little tight but it will go without damaging anything.

Did you get my email with address and such? How much of rick's and my list did you compile?

Go for the first one and if you don't get it go for the second. Hopefully you'll get all the paperwork and warranty info.

That's the one!!

Can't answer your question but definitely sounds odd. Did you try another source?

Sears does or did sell front struts with the stock adjustment. I believe Gabriel manufactured them. You can also spend a few more bucks on KYB shocks/struts. I have used the KYB's on the rear and like them.

The front and rear diffs are different. The front diff uses 12 bolts to hold the ring gear on while the rear uses 10 bolts. There is a company that offers a front LSD. Basically they modify your open diff. I can't remember the name of the company right now. McBrat had a list of ratios. It may be on the Ultimate Subaru website.

I use two batteries to make sure that I can start the car no matter what happens. My winch runs off the second battery with hard wired plugs front and rear. My kit includes gloves(leather preffered), two tow straps, asst couplers, and a standard warn snatchblock(serious overkill), cable guiding tool, something to throw over the cable. This is for two reasons. One, so that the cable can be seen so someone doesn't trip or hang themselves. And to aid in slowing the cable if it should break. Mike, the connectors can be had reasonable cheap through National parts chains. I used the larger ones because they handle more load. With the long wire run to the back of the Brat I didn't want the connection to solder itself.

That's funny Caleb. I asked Ed that exact same question. I saw the sign on the way up and wondered what it was and then asked him when he sent me the pic.

Noah, 6K and 8K are way overkill. Mine is a 4500 Superwinch. It hauled a very heavy Pepe up some knarly terrain without complaint. I use a snatch block and am very happy with the results. The weight is much less than those winches you listed. You can find them on the net(Ebay) for much less. I think I paid $300 or a little more. Add to that the ATV winch plate that I also bought on EBay. I don't remember the price but it was probably under $40.00. Just my opinion but you know that weight is not the Subaru's friend. Ken

I forgot to mention the duct tape, zip ties, spare bulbs and fuses. I do carry all the spare electrical tid bits in a small coffee can along with electrical tape. I also have a few fusible links in the can as well as a few relays. Funny story about zip ties. I had to replace a rear axle on the trail one day. I couldn't get the outboard cup off so I rebuilt it in the car. I didn't have any boot clamps so I hooked two zip ties together and used them for the clamp. Resourceful, yes, but now the funny part. I am still running the same axle with the zip ties still intact a couple months and 3 or 4 runs later.

Got your PM. Reply blocked 'cause your inbox is full. Sent you an email instead. Ken

Most people just use a small floor jack with whatever adapter needed(wood block) to reach the diff and crossmember. Tools; Standard stuff 8mm,10mm,12mm,14mm,17mm,19mm sockets and wrenches. Screwdrivers(one or two slotted and phillips) spare fuses, belts, hoses. water/antifreeze. Axle socket 3/16" pin punch Extra stuff I carry a folding shovel, folding saw, rain coat, 2 tow straps along with my winch. On-board welding equip., Tool bag with way more tools then I need.(better to have and not need than to need and not have) One of the most important things to have is a first aid kit. We have been lucky as not to have had any major injuries. A few cuts and bruises are always going to happen. Bottom line is take what you absolutely feel you need and whatever you think you can comfortably carry in your rig. Remember one thing, everything you add weighs something and it adds up after a while. Weight is not the friend of the Subaru.

Hey Dante, depending on what you have in mind I can probably hook you up. I built mine and they have stood up to the test of time and abuse. Give me a call and we'll talk about it. Ken

I sent you a PM the other day did you get it? Correction, I thought I sent you a PM. I will send another.

The viscous LSD is the rear diff for AWD cars. Started with the Legacy I believe. They came in 3.90, 4.11, 4.44. The VLSD is more of a speed type(fluid) rather than a LSD which is a clutch type and is more of an off the line type.

You have mail.

King, might note that only the turbo 5sp's are 3.70 ratio. Not a better tranny for anything but highway driving. For rally or offroad the 3.90 is the prefered tranny.

We weren't sure where base was gonna be. It depended on road conditions. We made it up the hill and it looked like the road was only getting worse. So we pulled up to the gravel hill and set up. I may have to get my radio rechecked also. I didn't have it retuned since changing from the Hatch to the Brat. There will be more runs, I hope.

I'm hoping that is a typo. Maybe should have read ...are good? lol

Why don't you just take the whole thing? Motor is a piece of cake. two bolts for motor mounts. 4 bolts to tranny. 4 bolts to exhaust. Unplug two main harness plugs. Disconnect the coil connection. Unhook the radiator hoses and pull the radiator. Disconnect fuel lines and vacuum from carbon canister and vaccuum line on passenger side of car. Pull motor out with a couple of people or a cherry picker. This should take no more then a couple of hours. Less if you are feeling energenic. If you want the trans too, you will just need to remove the crossmember now. The trans will come out after removing the driveline, speedo cable and electrical connection.

Ooooh Mike, I had my radio on all day and didn't hear ya', sorry. Glad you made it up though. We ended up at the gravel hill above the pits.

Oh, I forgot one small detail of the drive out. We came out of the woods and hit the highway. Just got it up to speed(55) and what do you think should happen? No, not that. A small herd of Roosevelt Elk decide that they are going to cross the highway in front of and behind me. This was a big herd. The cows were in the 3-400 lbs range. Managed to shut it down in time and not cause a huge multi vehicle wreck so all was good. Though I bet Rob will remember to do his hood pins from now on.

Try contact cleaner on the plugs and connection at the sender itself. Probably just corroded connections if the rest of the dash works.

Ditto.