Qman

Well, if I sell the Hatch it will be a street Brat. I will use it for Rally as well. If I sell the Legacy I will rally the Hatch. I haven't decided if I'm going to lift it or not. But I'm leaning... BTW, how did you figure that one Corky? I didn't even post on that one.

Here's the answer to all the guesses. '85... And BTW Corky, you are very quick for an old guy But it's Lucent grey.

It may be the drive gear. Which may or may not be servicable. Where in Oregon are you? There are a couple of independent service shops in Oregon that you could go to and trust!

Vacuum should increase with RPM's. That is what gives the proper advance to the distributor.

Adam, you said you took out the PVC valve, right? My guess would be that you are building pressure and either blowing it into the intake or pushing past the rings. Try reinstalling a PVC valve and see what happens.

As was I.

They do their job just fine. They protect the essentials well. I have bent and dented them but not damaged the things above them. My exhaust on the brat is just the same as your Turbo and it works well.

Cole, what exactly is wrong with your ignition? There might be ab easier way to fix your problem dependign on what the problem really is. BTW, if you do need to replace the entire switch, call Chris, he'll have it done in 30 minutes. That leaves alot of time for drinking beer and shooting the s&*(.

Yes... but you still have to part two cars for that. If they are that hard to find how will that work? The other thing people seem to miss is that a sedan will not fit his needs. People are not going to pay him what he needs to get all the parts for. And the sedan will effortlessly give all of them up for him.

No worries, I was just clarifying for the original poster.

If the price for the column isn't much more just get the whole column. If it has tilt it is a little tougher. You have to remove the wheel. Undo the springs(tough to get back on) then remove the screws with a 10mm wrench. Installation is in the reverse. But like I said the spings are tougher going on then coming off. You will also need to lower the column from the dash to get some working room.

There are a few different ignitions. Which car and model do you have?

Your car made this sound due to "air" in the system. Your air leak appeared when you had headgasket problems. Air in the system could be caused by a number of reasons. Leaky hose or waterpump. Even a bad radiator cap or radiator.

Yes sir, saw it in person on Saturday. Looks very good.

:clap: Sounds like you're getting a little bit of a slow start on the parent thing. It's all good though. They'll help to keep you young.

Yep, caused by air in the system. Craig gave good advice. Check the coolant level.

Very cool. Did you guys take a group photo with cars and people? I'd love to see one of those with names as well.

What I am about to say will upset alot of folks but it won't be the first or last time for that matter. An '85 sedan with no motor or engine wiring really is good for one purpose only. PARTS!!! If you want those goodies for your wagon weigh what the cost will be for those parts and then consider what you paid for the sedan. If you are ahead then do the scavenge. I have stripped much nicer ones than that one and a number of members are running the parts. If someone wants to step forward and pay you what it will cost for all the parts you want to put on your wagon then that should be considered. But I seriously doubt that will happen. Considering that the parts you mention will cost around a $1000.00 from just about any wrecker in Oregon. Don't feel bad about making your car better for you. Think of it this way. How many people have used XT6 suspension on there GL's to make them better. Something has to die to become an organ donor. Sounds to me like yours qualifies. Flame suit is on and functioning. Let me have it.

No problem.

The LSD is just that. It is a clutch pack instead of open side gears that apply traction to both wheels at once. The advantage is that when you loose traction to one tire it will allow some traction to be retained. However, the LSD is/isn't all it's cracked up to be. I have run one for about 3+ years and it's nice but doesn't always give you the traction needed. I installed a welded rear diff prior to the Rubicon trip and it is still in there. Not actually, the only factory built Subaru with a center LSD(and front for that matter) is the '04 STi. I too will agree that driving on DRY pavement is not only a bad idea but will indeed bind and eventually break something. Newer generation Subaru's with the AWD system will have viscous couplers that allow this. Old school Subes do not have the viscous coupler to reduce or eliminate low RPM binding. Rob, you are lazy!! :-p

With the welding help that you were just offered by Scott you can put just about any seat you want in there. I have XT6 seats in my Brat but they don't tilt back far enough for my liking. The rear wall get's in the way(I'm 6'4") but I manage.

Josh, I will be leaving Prairie Ridge around 8:00am heading to Woodenville and Samammish. Then to Eric's by noon. You can tag along or follow(might be best) and meet Ed(Edrach) and Corky(Dr RX) if you'd like. Hey Caleb, if you can be on time you can go with me also :moon: Ken

Yeah, I'll be by. I have to go to Ed's though. The package I'm picking up is too big for Ed to bring over. I'll shoot for noon as well, maybe earlier.

Cool!

True RX's had hubcaps not alloys. They were white and not real attractive IMO.