Qman

Advance the timing to 10-12 degrees. Then after you adjust the idle adjust the idle mixture. Turn it in until the engine starts to run rough but doesn't die. Then adjust it out until it smooths out then turn it out another 1-1 1/2 turns and it should be set. Also make sure you have zero vacuum leaks. That will affect the performance more than anything.

All sounds right Vickie. It will take a little while to recharge the battery. Especially at 2 amps. 6 amps should give you enough juice to start in 30+ minutes. If it has a choke lever or button, make sure you pull, push or whatever it takes to activate it. Once it starts slowly reduce the choke so it runs but the idle stays higher for the first couple of minutes. BTW, you go girl!

I think the only difference in the drivelines is between auto's and manual's. Just lay them side by side and you'll know the difference. Go with the one that was in the non turbo one.

Good job Adam!!

Boz, they are Swampers. 27/9.50R15's.

Here's mine Before and after

Well, run them until they break. I will bring a few spares with me. They are all used but I think they are good.

They already know:brow:

I was there last week. I didn't notice. There are a few older wagons and 4WD. But you know the deal with PaP's. Stock rotates at their wim.

Cool, I'll be there on Saturday morning.

The easiest way I have found is with a small pick tool also. I use the round one. Slip it between the handle and the panel. Hook the clip and pull it out. As far as installing the clip. That's done with the handle in my hand. They just clip back on and then they just pop back on the regulator.

No electricity,(no hairdryers, or curling irons)(no expresso either, damn). No running water. These would be considerred primative spots. Tell her that no one even pays attention to hair/make up after the first day. Qman

Yes, most use the 4x140mm pattern. Problem being the biggest wheels they use are 10 or 12". You thought you had clearance issues now.

You can also swap the odo between the two.

Actually, you need to use a vacuum pump(mightyvac) to see if it will hold vacuum. Obviously if you can suck start it it would probably be bad. Sorry, I couldn't stop my fingers.

It sounds like one of a couple of problems could be the culprit. Check the hill holder as per Andy's suggestion. If that checks out then it sounds like the throw out bearing is sticking/stuck to the sleeve or the pressure plate is bad. My guess would be "HH" or throw out bearing. Also, disconnect the clutch cable from the tranny and see if it still does as you describe. That will tell you if it is in the tranny or in the pedal.

That's a hard one to answer correctly. The distributors are curved for the cams. But I know people who have put the SPFI cams into carbed motors and used the carbed disty. I would probably use the carbed disty and play with the timing until you find the right combination. Make sure that the vac advance wil hold vacuum. It may advance the timing but not hold vacuum.

Highway driving will depend on what type of tire you'll be running. Accelleration will be less than stock. But every lifted Sube I have been in has done fine on the highway. Will not be a speed demon by any means. Your center of gravity doesn't change very much and that helps retain most handling characteristics. Depending on which wheels you use(read- offset) it may be just as stable as before the lift.

You should be OK. The flywheel is the same. The gas tank is the same. The starter should be fine as well. Make sure to keep the driveline, diff & hanger, front struts and the rear shocks(for height). Yours doesn't have them. I don't know for sure but I think the center bearing mount will be missing from the 2WD also. Just check to be sure.

No worries. That Hatch has a place all it's own. Making your own history is much more fun.

The nut size varies depending on wether or not it is a OEM new or rebuilt axle or an aftermarket axle. 36mm for standard and 32mm for the other. The punch needs to be a 3/16ths. The difference between 2wd and 4WD axles is the size of the shaft. 2wd axels are thinner than 4WD axles.

LOL @ Adam!! Didn't get the memo did ya'? My Hatch is long gone. Does resemble how it started. But it does have a long way to go before it can take that place in history.

I hate to let the "air" out of this theory but... When we got to the Rubicon I started to air down for that exact reason but it was suggested(by my co-pilot) that I wait until I absolutely needed the extra traction. Well, long story short, I ran the trail at street pressure and maintained my overall clearance and had no traction issues. The only time I have had problems with my tires in the past is when I aired down. I should add that most of the people who air down have much larger and stronger engines then our Subes have. They air down to help eliminate tire spin as much as traction.

If you come into the camp ground from the main road(not the trail) and come to the first intersection. Turn to the right, where we camped last time. Go to the end of the road and you'll see the turn around and shelter. Ken

Looks to be about 7 or 8 trail ready rigs. That would be a good turn out.