Qman

Does it have a header or stock exhaust?

Are you kidding me? That kind of post is not only redundant, it is actually insulting. And a turbo that will run without an O2 sensor... why would a turbo need input from an O2 sensor. And, why would you show a phase 2 EJ25 when discussing a phase 1 EJ22T? Nice...

O2 O2 O2 O2 O2 O2 O2 O2 O2 O2 O2 O2 O2 O2 Without it you have nothing to tell the ECU how to run the mixture.

That may be correct after all. I always ran the 5sp's behind my hipo builds and never even thought abut having to use a bigger bearing.

Search man... Last Activity: 03-26-2010 07:25 PM

LOL, never had a "fast" N/A have ya Gary? I jest. But, it does not have to break the bank to have a fast, fun to drive N/A. It will not have STi power. It will however, be way more fun to drive with instant power. No lag to be seen! Built my 2.5 liter with 1000 grind cams, intake and exhaust. 165whp AGX's with take off WRX wagon springs for a slight lift and leveling to get rid of the GC sag. Handled great, ran with all the big boys in rally cross. I won class with it two yrs in a row. Some day when you visit us up here I will take ya for a ride.

KYB AGX's are far superior for performance driving. And... more expensive though.

Check all of your O2 sensor plugs/connections. Make sure the plugs are all connected and pushed all the way in.

The fingers of the pressure plate, not the fork. The fingers of the pressure plate are designed to be pushed from one spot. By using a larger diameter bearing that spot is moved further down the fingers of the pressure plate. Thus, requiring more force on the clutch cable. The design of the pressure plate from the manufacturer will deem how "stiff" it feels. Buy 3 different plates from three different manufacturers and they will all feel different.

Sorry, should have been clearer, I meant the fingers on the pressure plate.

Try not to take this wrong but take a driving class and learn to drive your car first. Then make it handle. I know too many people who set up their cars and then can not control them and end in a crash or worse.

The thing that concerns me the most would be the fact that the Nissan TO is further down on the fingers. Which would also mean it would take a bit more force to disengage the disc. With a new clutch cable it probably would never be an issue but... (just thinking outloud again)

It obviously undersold... There is nothing wrong with paying what something is worth. There are not free cars around every corner. It is a clean car. There are far more than 2K worth of things on this car. The mileage scares me a little bit but the rest is real good. It is OK to paty what something is worth. He has already explained his position far beyond what he needed to. Give him a break. Do what you are comfortable with!

It looks good, but not that good... Offer him the $2100 plus the money for the cat-back. He makes a couple bucks and you get something you want.

Mike, come by the house after work one of these nights. I will show you how to fix it. Ken

That is funny. I never even saw the old ads. I guess I may know prices after all!!

That is where a factory manual is very handy to have. It will tell you the torque value for every bolt in the car. Re-engineering the car after the fact may be time better spent elsewhere.

Rick, from what you understand? You haven't done one of these? I have done several. It will be fine. It will hold the power better than a stock clutch. The build will need better holding power. The clutch I recommended will do the job as stated. Subaru calls for two different TO's for 4wd's. Wagons and non-wagons. I would guess for the difference in weight. Otherwise, who knows, it could be superseded by now any way.

They touch just fine. The only reason to use the that TO bearing is that it matches the fork. But, if you are comfortable with it you can use a 4wd TO. Mounts up the same. And, if you are really worried about it you can use a 4wd wagon bearing...

No, you use the throwout bearing for the transmission you are using.

I would look at using, at the very least, an EA82 clutch and flywheel. Anything less and you run the risk of slippage. An XT6 assy would be slightly over-kill but would not slip under load.

Sorry, bad form. I think he is refering to the mounting bolt rather than the slider. My initial thought was the same as slip critical meaning that the joint was designed to slip under pressure. Those are not. Over tightening is what my comments were directed at more than anything. Torque by feel will generate more over torqued bolts. Which will result in more "stretched" or over torqued bolts. Both of which will cause more grief than good. Using a torque wrench on the car with the proper torque specs will not only not break bolts but it will give the OP the true feel for the torque value specified. "Feel" takes years to get and that still is not fool-proof. In the end only torquing bolts with a torque wrench can ensure that they are correct. Now, before this arguement starts,. I do not torque every bolt myself. I have, however, been doing this for over 30yrs and know the difference and when torquing is required. I use 1/4", 3/8" and 1/2" ratchets depending on bolt size to avoid over-torqueing whenever possible. Ken

If all you found wrong was a couple of boots maybe. Price reflects a good condition, low mile car. Offer $2K and work from there. I doubt there are people knocking his door down at the current price. This is a NW car with NW options. So, price is relative. I would also do a compression test on the motor just to make sure. Does it look like the work was done that is claimed?